Charles Perdue
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2005
- Messages
- 2,177
Blade mapping is just another tool for learning props and is also another method of record keeping of your favorite props and of comparing one blade to the other.
It is a little time consuming but for me it is worth it.
Basicly make a reference drawing of all the blades of the prop (I keep these in a note book) and overlay a grid pattern on the sketch using whatever unit of measurement you are comfortable with. I use 1/10 ths of an inch on the prop and 4/10 ths on the drawing. Mark a grid of the same pattern on the inside of each of the prop blades. I expand the sketch at about a 4:1 ratio to make the drawing easier to read. On areas of the prop that have a large change over a small distance (as in trailing edge cup), I make the grid lines closer together. Set the prop in the pitch gauge and take the measurements at all of the crossing points of the grid lines on the prop. Write these down on the drawing at their corresponding points using the grid pattern on the drawing.
Do all of the blades. When you are finished, you will then have a very accurate visual reference of the pitch progession and transition that happens over the entire area of the prop blades.
After you do a few props, this becomes very easy to do.
Keep good notes of each of the props behavior, that you have blade mapped, with the drawing in the notebook and as you use them, your understanding of what parts of a prop blade has what effects on the tuning of the boat will become a lot easier.
Charles
It is a little time consuming but for me it is worth it.
Basicly make a reference drawing of all the blades of the prop (I keep these in a note book) and overlay a grid pattern on the sketch using whatever unit of measurement you are comfortable with. I use 1/10 ths of an inch on the prop and 4/10 ths on the drawing. Mark a grid of the same pattern on the inside of each of the prop blades. I expand the sketch at about a 4:1 ratio to make the drawing easier to read. On areas of the prop that have a large change over a small distance (as in trailing edge cup), I make the grid lines closer together. Set the prop in the pitch gauge and take the measurements at all of the crossing points of the grid lines on the prop. Write these down on the drawing at their corresponding points using the grid pattern on the drawing.
Do all of the blades. When you are finished, you will then have a very accurate visual reference of the pitch progession and transition that happens over the entire area of the prop blades.
After you do a few props, this becomes very easy to do.
Keep good notes of each of the props behavior, that you have blade mapped, with the drawing in the notebook and as you use them, your understanding of what parts of a prop blade has what effects on the tuning of the boat will become a lot easier.
Charles
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