Outboard steering sweep?

[Kyle Adams]

Any amount of EPA you take out is torque you threw out the window with too long a servo horn. You want the servo to rotate fully to turn only what you need.

If you are turning your EPA below 80% you really got it wrong and should be fixed.

Grim,
I disagree to the 9's. Can't believe you would post that you want the longest servo horn that will fit.
Strange idea's you have about things sometimes.

You always want the shortest servo horn position you need to get the rotation you need. Hands down no question about it.

If you are turning down your EPA you are wasting servo torque, battery power and wear and tear on your servo. You always want the servo rotating as much as you can. The servo is much better able to deal with rudder strikes too.

You can never be too short on servo horn if you can get the throw you need to turn the boat.

Thank you for your response.

 

[Kyle Adams]

Its stretch for most and its OK if you dont agree.

I sleep the same.

Grim

I'm going to try both methods and see what works best for my style (whatever it is). Thank you for the input. I didn't realize it was such a passionate subject for people.

 

[Kyle Adams]

Big stretch. Lol.

Seen a lot of these messed up setups with the 1 1/2" long servo horns China has flooded the market with and ever tom dick and harry selling them. People use them and trash their entire setup with them. Twice as long as they should be and there goes 50% of servo torque and increasing the steering speed by 2 times. Loose loose.

I ordered the metal ServoCity double arm, and disc to test both. Both hub mounts. No imitation stuff here.

 

[Grimracer]

I'm going to try both methods and see what works best for my style (whatever it is). Thank you for the input. I didn't realize it was such a passionate subject for people.

me eather!..

Keep us posted

Grim

 

[Kyle Adams]

Long at both ends is a different story. Equal the same thing mechanically but other advantages I get that perfectly.

Long servo horn and matching extended rudder horn is great but then side to side sweep of the pushrod gets excessive and you have the line drawn somewhere. On a outboard that this thread is about also does change the situation I understand so horn length is going to be way long to match the ones spread out on the outboard.

One way to make the rear long without being long is come off rear of rudder for the horn then you get the added leverage adding up going back and to the side but again it makes the pushrod side to side sweep excessive.

I thought you were saying on just any setup use longest you can fit. ????

I like to use the transom for a pushrod support and have only a hole the size of the rod along with smaller sized I.D. servo boot mounts so pushrod deflection is somewhat restricted. I use large diameter pushrods and monster nylon ball joints that do not ever get and iota of slop.

On the big gas outboards I use huge ball joints from real outboard engines throttle linkage. Made them in a 10-32 thread with 3/16 SS rod at one end and other slip over the SS rod then drilled and a roll pin installed.

Awesome gas outboard linkage.

I'm going to start with a double arm at the servo gearbox with support guides at the hull support. 4mm threaded rod inside carbon tubing and RC4WD aluminum rod ends. Parts should all be delivered by Wednesday.