OT: My workshop and cold concrete?

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TomMoorehouse

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Ok, so with the walls all up and all insulated I can heat my shop up with my propane heater in about 3 minutes flat. But after I turn it off it cools off almost just as fast. I can tell It is the concrete doing it. The floor is COLD! I want to be able to heat my shop with minimal effort.

I was thinking of placing 2 X 2's down on the floor with 1 1/2" thick pink foam in between. then 3/4 plywood on top. Is this a good idea? What ya think? should the 2 X 2's be spaced 12" 16"???

thanks

tom

ps just taped and put the first coat of mud on today.... should stay above freezing for a couple days i think.
 
Is the ceiling finished AND insulated?? In both my old shop & new one now (1/3 of the size of old one :( ) the single biggest heat loss was past the un-insulated ceiling. :blink:
 
I agree with Don, heat rises, and if there is no insulation to stop it, it will go right on through the ceiling/roof. B)
 
I agree, most heat loss is through the ceiling.

However, having just built insulation models for their swedish distributors catalogue

Slab insulation

You need a vapour barrier but you don't need 2x2's, just float the underfloor (OSB) on the foam.

I can link to "how to do it" but it's in swedish!

Ian

(and if you want really warm feet)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Ian Webster said:
I agree, most heat loss is through the ceiling.However, having just built insulation models for their swedish distributors catalogue

Slab insulation

You need a vapour barrier but you don't need 2x2's, just float the underfloor (OSB) on the foam.

I can link to "how to do it" but it's in swedish!

Ian

(and if you want really  warm feet)

81977[/snapback]

You can't float the floor sheets on top of the foam. They will settle uneven from walking and placing heavy objects on it. Frame it at 12in on center, fill with the insulation then attach the sheets to the 2x2s with screws. You can glue the 2x2s to the cement floor with subfloor adhesive or you can shoot nails with powder gun, should glue sheets also to the 2x2, then attach them with screws also , will stop squeeking
 
Tom

If you don't have access to the tool to shoot nails into the floor TAPCONS are super.

Later!

Ed Radz
 
Tom,

Insulating the floor will help but I was thinking that you have too much heater. The heater is so powerful for that area that it heats the air to uncomfortable limits before any material objects in the room and even the room materials themselves have time to come to temperature. I suggest a small electric heater, one of those oil filled heaters that resemble an old radiator type heater or maybe a small baseboard unit. Leave this on at a very low temp (50) and turn it up before you plan on going in the shop.
 
"You can't float the floor sheets on top of the foam"

Guess the swedes have different standards <_<

Very common method here!

Ian
 
Tom,

Use sport tile on the floor (Loews) (Home Depot) Snaps together,no glue,

comes in KQQL colors Hummmm black and white looks good.Great insulator.

I have it in my shop. Clean it whit a hose or lift it up

Bob Morton B)
 
I've driven my car over a big chunk of 2" pink foam and only left a little bit of tread-marks on it.

The foam is strong, especially when you are planning on putting 3/4 ply over it. Only thing you need is to build a frame down the middle to secure the wood over it. The frame will prevent the wood from shifting around.

Are you going to use Mike-P toilet paper sealing method? Sorry couldn't resist :rolleyes:
 
Tom

Install a ceiling fan in your work shop this will help. the work shop that I had before this one had a ceiling fan in it and it work real good in the winter and summer.
 
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