New in town.

[Blackout]

On the Techno, you will also need a pipe from HTBboats.com. Or some other .21 O/B pipe.

Did you send Vision Craft a PM? Like most hull suppliers, he works out of his house. He may be on vacation. He only took 2 weeks to get my boat done. And the boat handles like a dream...

I use push pull rods.

 

[Blackout]

1/3 mile is prefered if it will fit on your pond.

It could fit, but wheels will have to be add to the hulls in case they run out of the pond in the curves ...

What is the usable length and width of your pond?

 

[user 11673]

On the Techno, you will also need a pipe from HTBboats.com. Or some other .21 O/B pipe.

Did you send Vision Craft a PM? Like most hull suppliers, he works out of his house. He may be on vacation. He only took 2 weeks to get my boat done. And the boat handles like a dream...

I use push pull rods.

I already got a reply from him. I will place my order tomorrow.

Very neat your installation job...is the way I like to do thigs too.

How fast your boat goes with the stock OS? What should I espect with the Tecnopower?

Does the boat come with internal flotation aids?

How do you seal the dry box cover?

In the attached picture you'll see our pond aprox dimentions. How much more space do we need in adition to the course size to be in the safe side of not running out of water? <_<

 

[Blackout]

On the Techno, you will also need a pipe from HTBboats.com. Or some other .21 O/B pipe.

Did you send Vision Craft a PM? Like most hull suppliers, he works out of his house. He may be on vacation. He only took 2 weeks to get my boat done. And the boat handles like a dream...

I use push pull rods.

I already got a reply from him. I will place my order tomorrow.

Very neat your installation job...is the way I like to do thigs too.

How fast your boat goes with the stock OS? What should I espect with the Tecnopower?

Does the boat come with internal flotation aids?

How do you seal the dry box cover?

In the attached picture you'll see our pond aprox dimentions. How much more space do we need in adition to the course size to be in the safe side of not running out of water? <_<

Not sure how fast as I have not radared it or put a gps on it either. I'm working on a timing system for the pond to get some better speed numbers. I don't trust the GPS as I have gotten odd results at times.... A good radar gun is expensive.

Not sure on the Techno, but it should be faster than the O.S.. Try a search, not sure how many have that engine, it is relatively new.

You could start off with a new O.S. and then upgrade to the Techno later. You'll need the O.S. lower unit and O.S. carb anyways.

The boat's hull is sealed, so no flotation is needed. Assuming the radio box stays closed, that adds flotation too.

I built my own radio box from wood. The Vision Craft box was too narrow for my liking.

A wood cover is taped to the radio box to seal it.

The usable length of your pond is on the short side for sure. It's going to be tight for racing in traffic. The width is good. I would run a short 1/3 mile course. It is o.k. to not have a legal course. It is done sometimes. You just won't be able to have record events there. With 150 foot strsights you would have about 60 feet of lane width on the turns. That is not enough for serious racing. I have 100 feet of lane width in the corners on my pond and you need to drive carefully with other boats. One thing that helps allot is a driver stand. Mine is 9.5' tall and that makes the view ALLOT better. You could also square off the course so that you have four straights. Basicly use the space as best you can. Or make an offshore course that has atleast one left turn. The 95' wide section might be usable for that depending on the design.

Or find someone with an excavator. That's what I did twice and will do a third time when money is saved again.

 

[Blackout]

Looked at your pond again. If you dug out the one corner with an excavator, it would start opening up the pond. I figure the very miniumum width for a 1/4 mile course would be 130'. That would give you 50' wide straights. I don't think the width is as important on the straights, especially if you can build a high driver stand in the center. The center of my pond only has 50' lane widths on the straights. The ends are wider though; 175' and 200' total width.

 

[user 11673]

The usable length of your pond is on the short side for sure. It's going to be tight for racing in traffic. The width is good. I would run a short 1/3 mile course. It is o.k. to not have a legal course. It is done sometimes. You just won't be able to have record events there. With 150 foot strsights you would have about 60 feet of lane width on the turns. That is not enough for serious racing. I have 100 feet of lane width in the corners on my pond and you need to drive carefully with other boats. One thing that helps allot is a driver stand. Mine is 9.5' tall and that makes the view ALLOT better. You could also square off the course so that you have four straights. Basicly use the space as best you can. Or make an offshore course that has atleast one left turn. The 95' wide section might be usable for that depending on the design.

Or find someone with an excavator. That's what I did twice and will do a third time when money is saved again.

I will consider the excavator.

How far from shore you have your front chute?

I need to determinate how much do I have to enlarge the pond in eather sides for a 1/3 miles course and 1/4 (both options)

 

[user 11673]

Looked at your pond again. If you dug out the one corner with an excavator, it would start opening up the pond. I figure the very miniumum width for a 1/4 mile course would be 130'. That would give you 50' wide straights. I don't think the width is as important on the straights, especially if you can build a high driver stand in the center. The center of my pond only has 50' lane widths on the straights. The ends are wider though; 175' and 200' total width.

so...kind of confuse now...confirm L x W we need including space for turns and both lanes witds plus distance from shore with the front chute...or say the same in spanish...thks

 

[Blackout]

Sorry for the confusion. I was throwing out too many options. Your pond width is good except for the 95' section, so you would need to start enlarging the 95' section to what ever width you think you need. With a 1/4 mile course, if you want 50' wide chute widths, you would enlarge to 130' wide. A 1/3 mile course would need to be 170' wide. These are the very minimum widths. If you have it in your budget dig more.

My front chute is only 50' wide.

 

[Blackout]

Looked at your pond again. If you dug out the one corner with an excavator, it would start opening up the pond. I figure the very miniumum width for a 1/4 mile course would be 130'. That would give you 50' wide straights. I don't think the width is as important on the straights, especially if you can build a high driver stand in the center. The center of my pond only has 50' lane widths on the straights. The ends are wider though; 175' and 200' total width.

so...kind of confuse now...confirm L x W we need including space for turns and both lanes witds plus distance from shore with the front chute...or say the same in spanish...thks

I think I know where you got confused. The center of my pond is only around 150' wide, but the ends are wider at 200' and 175'. Having the ends wider is nice incase you take a turn too wide, you have a chance to get back in your lane. I would post a Google Earth link, but the pond is too new, the view they have on file is 2 years old.

 

[user 11673]

Blackout,

This weekend we will confirm our pond dimentions just in case.

The order for my Vision Craft 20 is already placed. Also the OS .21XM to upgrade later on to the Tecnopower engine.

This morning I also received a TS-3 for my kids. It has a very clean finish and I have the feeling it will run like any other expensier hull...The only thing I noticed that did not like is that the fuel tank is locate too much above the CG... and 8oz of fuel 2 or 3 inches above CG has a considerable "momentum force" on turns.

I would like at least to have an idea of how fast this tunnel hulls goes with .21?

 

[Blackout]

Blackout,

This weekend we will confirm our pond dimentions just in case.

The order for my Vision Craft 20 is already placed. Also the OS .21XM to upgrade later on to the Tecnopower engine.

This morning I also received a TS-3 for my kids. It has a very clean finish and I have the feeling it will run like any other expensier hull...The only thing I noticed that did not like is that the fuel tank is locate too much above the CG... and 8oz of fuel 2 or 3 inches above CG has a considerable "momentum force" on turns.

I would like at least to have an idea of how fast this tunnel hulls goes with .21?

The fuel tank is probably located high to make sure there are no fuel draw problems. Mine is lower with no hopper tank, so I was originally concerned about having fuel draw problems, but it's been drawing just fine. I don't even have to prime the engine before starting, just slap the starter on and go... I think O.S. does a good job in designing a user friendly carb size and design.

I'll see if I can get a GPS speed on my O.S. Vison Craft thursday night. I just don't trust that method a whole lot. I think it might give a false high at times....

 

[user 11673]

Blackout,

How do you call this and where do I get it?

2nd: I prefer to use the fiber glass radio box that comes with the boat. In that case, which fuel tank fix without interferience the steering pushrods paths?

Thks

 

[Blackout]

Blackout,

How do you call this and where do I get it?

2nd: I prefer to use the fiber glass radio box that comes with the boat. In that case, which fuel tank fix without interferience the steering pushrods paths?

Thks

I made them, but most do not like them. Most people prefer using the rubber boot method. The Robart seals that you asked about on another thread work on the same idea, and would work fine.

When you get the radio box, you may change your mind. Not sure why such a narrow box is used, when a wider wooden box will fit and provide more room to fit the servos. But, people always do things differently and that is fine. You can bend the pushrods to get them to clear the fuel tank, but I prefer straight rods. I used a Sullivan slant 6 oz tank.

 

[user 11673]

Blackout,

How do you call this and where do I get it?

2nd: I prefer to use the fiber glass radio box that comes with the boat. In that case, which fuel tank fix without interferience the steering pushrods paths?

Thks

I made them, but most do not like them. Most people prefer using the rubber boot method. The Robart seals that you asked about on another thread work on the same idea, and would work fine.

When you get the radio box, you may change your mind. Not sure why such a narrow box is used, when a wider wooden box will fit and provide more room to fit the servos. But, people always do things differently and that is fine. You can bend the pushrods to get them to clear the fuel tank, but I prefer straight rods. I used a Sullivan slant 6 oz tank.

6 or 8 oz? How many minutes of running time are require? It seems to me the clunk is not efficient cos is facing to the front...Has you noticed Grimracer TS-3 fuel talk do not use clunk?

Had you ever consider the use of pull pull cables for steering?

Who produce fiber glass boxes with the proper size?

 

[Blackout]

6 oz. is fine with the O.S. engine. I keep forgeting to count laps, but I get atleast 12 laps it seems on a 1/3 mile course. In racing you need 2 minutes of mill time and then 6 laps of racing. Shorter if you throw the boat in late, which some do. I do not use a clunk, I just use the brass tube and bend it so that it goes to the bottom and to the left. That is where the fuel goes in a right hand corner.

People use pull pull cables, but my method has been flawless so far.

The Vision Craft box is the "proper size", I just like the extra room a wood box provides. A wood box is easy to build.

 

[user 11673]

Well Blackout, today I finally got my Vision Craft 20

Very nice and clean job by Shawn Junker. I order a 2nd boat for one on my friend,also a recieved today.

I used to call my shop the JetLab...BoatLab is about to begin.

Where do I find the recomendation to put this boat toguether?

 

[Blackout]

Well Blackout, today I finally got my Vision Craft 20

Very nice and clean job by Shawn Junker. I order a 2nd boat for one on my friend,also a recieved today.

I used to call my shop the JetLab...BoatLab is about to begin.

Where do I find the recomendation to put this boat toguether?

Ask shawn if he has a setup sheet. Otherwise, I think there is info on his thread in the manufacturer section.

My engine is set so that the bottom of the bullet is 1/8" above the sponson bottom. I ignored the CG and just put the radio box as far forward as possible with the rx battery in the front of the box. This seems to work for me and I have not added any extra weight.

 

[user 11673]

oK, I'll have some fun playing with it.

Shawn already send me the set up recomendations.

Lets see. Thks,