using an iv bag inside another sealed bag or container of some sort would be ideal, imho. fuel & pick up line in the bag, pressure on the outside from the pipe. that way, no air would be in the bag, allowing a much more consistent fuel feed throughout to entire run.
OK lets redo the test. 60% J-Cuz swamp water, 500 ML Baxter Bag, Jan15, 2011. Will do regular updates
OK lets redo the test. 60% J-Cuz swamp water, 500 ML Baxter Bag, Jan15, 2011. Will do regular updates
Tony i would fill the bag all the way up just to make sure that the tubes going into the bag will hold up , iwould fill it and plug the tube and then let it sit flat like it would sit in the boat .
Just my thoghts
no, but i bet google does that's where i go when i need info like this.If this works the tank builders will feel it 2.00-5.00 a bag and 60.00-100.00 for a tank which on do you think people will go for .
The only other problem would be the size of the iv bag
250ml = what in oz
500ml = what in oz
1000ml = what in oz
Anyone have the answer
250 millileter is 8.45350 fl oz(US)
i'm not so sure rubber bands would work well. when the bag got low & shrunk in size you may not get enough pressure to feed the engine. if you applied enough pressure to overcome that, i think you might be rich at the start of the run. no way of knowing, just my thoughts. the whole idea is to get a consistent mixture throughout the run. a pressure tap off the pipe, applied to the outside of the bag would be the simplest & most consistent, imho. but, since nobody's tried this yet, only one way to find out, test, test, & then test some more. 1 more good excuse to spend a day at the pond !!250 millileter is 8.45350 fl oz(US)
Thats a good size for a 21 and liter than a metal tank , and the 500ml bag will work good with a 67 motor .
Another thought , you won't need a pressure tape from the pipe just put elastic bands over the bag to create pressure to get the fuel to the carb.
Update - after 1 week no change to the bag, no leak, no stains on the plywood fuel inside is clear, bag is pliable. I have now filled the bag, laid it on its side, and blocked the inlets, I will update next week
Great test so far! Hey Tony why are the inlets folded over with the bag? I'm still wondering about the inlets and if they can handle the nitro or not. It looks like the inlets are not in contact with the nitro. Thanks for doing this test!
Paul
Update - after 1 week no change to the bag, no leak, no stains on the plywood fuel inside is clear, bag is pliable. I have now filled the bag, laid it on its side, and blocked the inlets, I will update next week
Paul :
Glad to do the test I am curious too. The fuel is in the inlets here is a close up ,I think that you can see the fuel. I am using hemostats and have not cut off the white port on the secondary inlet. I dont think the material will degrade as its the same as the rest of the bag, however my sealing mechanism may leak, as the air pressure and the collapsing bag may push it through the hemos. I should probably set it up with a proper brass fitting as if we were tring to deliver fuel to the carb. I intend to re-use this bag on one of my gas boats if it holds up.
Great test so far! Hey Tony why are the inlets folded over with the bag? I'm still wondering about the inlets and if they can handle the nitro or not. It looks like the inlets are not in contact with the nitro. Thanks for doing this test!
Paul
Update - after 1 week no change to the bag, no leak, no stains on the plywood fuel inside is clear, bag is pliable. I have now filled the bag, laid it on its side, and blocked the inlets, I will update next week