My 1st Build (SLR Missile Thunderboat ZippKit)

[Man Le]

Spent some time in the Boat Room as I received a few more details I wanted to do prior to the Clear Coat.
I drilled out the rudder and finished the fittings as well. Now its time to assemble one more time so I have all the little details handled, like the holes on the boat for the exhaust, the steering rod and water outlets. Almost done.
View attachment 308985View attachment 308987View attachment 308988

Looks beautiful, the manual did not mention about testing in in the water, making sure no leaks......did you test in the water before painting ? are you planning to use a fuel bag came with the kit or fuel tank ?

 

[Hydro Junkie]

Guys, just a curiosity question here. Where did you guys run your cooling water discharge lines to? I was going back over the thread and, when I looked at Chuck's boat, I didn't see any installed prior to the deck going down. I know the intake line can just run along the inside of the boat since it isn't a real issue. The discharge, on the other hand, will tell you if you're getting cooling water to the engine and pipe. If you plan on running them out through a transom, you won't be able to see the water coming out so being able to verify you're getting cooling water would be almost impossible while the boat is running

 

[Man Le]

Guys, just a curiosity question here. Where did you guys run your cooling water discharge lines to? I was going back over the thread and, when I looked at Chuck's boat, I didn't see any installed prior to the deck going down. I know the intake line can just run along the inside of the boat since it isn't a real issue. The discharge, on the other hand, will tell you if you're getting cooling water to the engine and pipe. If you plan on running them out through a transom, you won't be able to see the water coming out so being able to verify you're getting cooling water would be almost impossible while the boat is running

Thank you for bringing this up, water discharge not in the transom for sure, I'm planning to place them on the side, same side with the exhaust, easy to route the lines.

 

[Chuck Mason]

just a curiosity question here

For sure Hydro Mang, Cooling is paramount and seeing the issues from other drivers making sure of good water flow is important. I wanted to see the Cooling exit’s as the boat passes me So I went with a direct rout above the sponson and deck with 2 1/8 stainless steel ports One from the Engine and One from the exhaust.
Once the clear coating is done I will install the fittings and the rest of the Cowling, rudder, prop and exhaust.
Yes I am running the airtight fuel bag up fnt. with a single line T-Fitting to fill and call it good. I did buy the hose connections for running the engine out of the water as well as a good mechanical fuel pump for my fuel can. Remember No Bubbles.... Going for start-up Friday.
My Sister painted the driver and did much better than I would have...

 

[Hydro Junkie]

Okay guys, just a bit more "vintage mahogany" for you all to drool over.
This time, we have the Slo-Mo-Shun IV to look at. The lettering and flag on the tail were what I traced to do the graphics on the "V" back in 1991. One thing you might notice is that the grain of the plywood was at 45 degrees on the side of the boat when the crew was working on the engine. This was due to both this and the "V" being "reskinned" with mahogany ply in roughly 1952 or 1953 with diagonal cut plywood. When we rebuilt the "V", the plywood was custom ordered and cost over $75 for a 4X8 foot sheet. Something else that is prominently shown is the open sponsons. It was felt that the sponsons needed to be open so they would "flood" when the boat was sitting still, all for stability

 

[Rich Jones]

For sure Hydro Mang, Cooling is paramount and seeing the issues from other drivers making sure of good water flow is important. I wanted to see the Cooling exit’s as the boat passes me So I went with a direct rout above the sponson and deck with 2 1/8 stainless steel ports One from the Engine and One from the exhaust.
View attachment 309073 Once the clear coating is done I will install the fittings and the rest of the Cowling, rudder, prop and exhaust.
Yes I am running the airtight fuel bag up fnt. with a single line T-Fitting to fill and call it good. I did buy the hose connections for running the engine out of the water as well as a good mechanical fuel pump for my fuel can. Remember No Bubbles.... Going for start-up Friday.
View attachment 309074 My Sister painted the driver and did much better than I would have...

Driver looks great she did a nice job. The cooling discharge location you used is ideal. There will be no mistake about it from almost anywhere on the course.

 

[Chuck Mason]

I started to sweat the 1st few layers of Clear Coat but now that its inside It looks Sooo much better than I thought.
Going to let it get good and hard and wet sand it with 1000 grit and shoot it one more time and reassemble.
The plumbing and fuel bag are all set up to go back in for the test run... I still dont have the automatic shutdown set up but I will.
Here are a few Pic's after the 1st Clear coat inside and OUT. Yea I left the pin stripe on one side and will do the other side after it dries.
I can count the leaves in the reflection.

 

[Wasted wages]

My Sister painted the driver and did much better than I would have...

She did a really nice job... may have a future in painting drivers for boaters !!

 

[Wasted wages]

I started to sweat the 1st few layers of Clear Coat but now that its inside It looks Sooo much better than I thought.
Going to let it get good and hard and wet sand it with 1000 grit and shoot it one more time and reassemble.
The plumbing and fuel bag are all set up to go back in for the test run... I still dont have the automatic shutdown set up but I will.
Here are a few Pic's after the 1st Clear coat inside and OUT. Yea I left the pin stripe on one side and will do the other side after it dries.
View attachment 309149View attachment 309150 I can count the leaves in the reflection.

I was trying to figure that out too...I couldn't tell if was just reflections or if the clear coat sprays on "milky" and then dries clear..
It looks awesome where the clear is slicked out though...

 

[Chuck Mason]

1000 grit again

and a Few more Max 2K Clear layers. (More to come) Oh my it looks like glass !
I will post the rest once its assembled I am so grateful for all the forums support, helping with the learnin curves. Thanks to all.

 

[Hydro Junkie]

So, when do you start the next one? As most will probably agree, one is just never enough

 

[Chuck Mason]

I am torn between two.
Its either the Following LOUD Lady
Lauterbach Custom with the same Teak Decking

OR... A Full Round Nose, NO Drop Sponsons with TEAK Decking and a Tale using the RC Boat Company
Cowling and ML Boat-works Kit.
But I need to finish re-assembly here and get-her in the water. SOON, I hope.

 

[Chuck Mason]

HELP,
So I have reached the wiring/servo attaching point and I am struggling with the rite way to do this and still be able to remove the Servos or The Throttle rod
1. The plastic Bell for the Throttle, it is set to push the arm that is on the carb.
what do you suggest. PLEASE Take a picture so I may see.
2. The wiring? the red lead and black lead from the coil?
3. the Receiver KILL switch to the Ignition Coil and the regular on/off
4. Solid mounting the BOX ? (Tabs glued and drill)? or Velcro the bottom?
1. 2. 2.

3. 3. I Don't want to sound Helpless but I cant see the complete wire set up in my head without it pictures the red wire from the coil and the ends from the kill switch to the battery through the receiver? GRRRRRRRR.
On a good note I do have the rudder sorted, sort-of......
I did look through the Forum for basic Wiring Set-Up but I couldn't find one that showed the kill switch installed. If there is a Thread that would be good too. As always Thank you for everything Team Intlwaters. You are all appreciated.

 

[Rich Jones]

HELP,
So I have reached the wiring/servo attaching point and I am struggling with the rite way to do this and still be able to remove the Servos or The Throttle rod
1. The plastic Bell for the Throttle, it is set to push the arm that is on the carb.
what do you suggest. PLEASE Take a picture so I may see.
2. The wiring? the red lead and black lead from the coil?
3. the Receiver KILL switch to the Ignition Coil and the regular on/off
4. Solid mounting the BOX ? (Tabs glued and drill)? or Velcro the bottom?
1.View attachment 309540 2. View attachment 309543 2.View attachment 309544

3. View attachment 309545 3. View attachment 309546 I Don't want to sound Helpless but I cant see the complete wire set up in my head without it pictures the red wire from the coil and the ends from the kill switch to the battery through the receiver? GRRRRRRRR.
On a good note I do have the rudder sorted, sort-of......
View attachment 309548 View attachment 309547 I did look through the Forum for basic Wiring Set-Up but I couldn't find one that showed the kill switch installed. If there is a Thread that would be good too. As always Thank you for everything Team Intlwaters. You are all appreciated.

To be honest with you Chuck, I don’t know anyone that uses a kill switch. I use a cable setup for my throttle and I love them. It’s flexible and you don’t need to worry so much about alignment. You can get them from zippkits. But even with the bell crank setup you can set up your radio/linkage to be partially open for idle and be able to close to shut it off. You can achieve this by setting up the trigger to push forward and close it. Or, depending on the radio you can push a switch and close it. With this set up just zip tie the black coil wire off somewhere where it can’t make contact with anything metal and you just use the red wire. On the subject of mounting batteries, receivers, and whatever else, I use 3M Scotch extreme fastener material. It’s the same concept as Velcro but WAY stickier and when the two surfaces mate, you really have to pull to get them apart. It’s like 17.00 for a roll but will last you a long time.

I’m sorry I don’t know much about the kill switch thing. Maybe someone else can help there. I also haven’t used the bellcrank setup because the throttle cable works so well.

 

[Chuck Mason]

I do have the Cable throttle from Zippkit, the minute I saw it on yours I got one. I was going to hold off on using it I wanted it on the Lauterbach. BUT... I think I will keep Everything the same on all the boats so Cables For both.
Thank you Rich... And mounting the box.. will do....
Not sure why I was under the impression all the boats had to have a electronic kill switch? in case the radio fails or WOT so you have shutdown...
I sure appreciate your help 100%
I am going to map out the wiring small steps at a time....
THE WATER calls to me lol

 

[Rich Jones]

Depends on the radio. Mine has failsafe feature for both battery power and loss of reception. It saved my ass when my switch slid itself to off. I have since gone to the waterproof locking toggle switches. Daniel Place here on the forum sells them wired up and ready to go.

Nothing wrong with using the Kill
Switch I don’t think but wiring and functionality I don’t know about. I’m sure someone will.

Incidentally, the Lauterbach hit a roller and went over Sunday. It was really windy and blowing directly down the front straight which doesn’t happen often. You should have heard the gasp from Jamie. Zero damage and went back out later.

View attachment IMG_9036.MOV

 

[Chuck Mason]

My heart was in my throat till I read ZERO Damage, Great way to build a sturdy Lady.
Not to be selfish but I am glad you posted your Build It gave me everything about where to add support and gussets. Taking the extra time is important to doing it the rite way.. Im am going to take the radio box and remount the servo's batt. ect . . ..
It will Be rite.

 

[Rich Jones]

My heart was in my throat till I read ZERO Damage, Great way to build a sturdy Lady.
Not to be selfish but I am glad you posted your Build It gave me everything about where to add support and gussets. Taking the extra time is important to doing it the rite way.. Im am going to take the radio box and remount the servo's batt. ect . . ..
It will Be rite.

That was the whole idea of the thread and I’m glad it helped you! Just to confirm, my servos are on aluminum mounts that screw to the floor of my box. I have blocks of wood glued in the floor that are drilled underneath for t nuts or blind nuts if you will. Once everything is located I epoxy them in. Servo removal is easy. The other stuff is what I use the Scotch fastener for.

 

[Man Le]

HELP,
So I have reached the wiring/servo attaching point and I am struggling with the rite way to do this and still be able to remove the Servos or The Throttle rod
1. The plastic Bell for the Throttle, it is set to push the arm that is on the carb.
what do you suggest. PLEASE Take a picture so I may see.
2. The wiring? the red lead and black lead from the coil?
3. the Receiver KILL switch to the Ignition Coil and the regular on/off
4. Solid mounting the BOX ? (Tabs glued and drill)? or Velcro the bottom?
1.View attachment 309540 2. View attachment 309543 2.View attachment 309544

3. View attachment 309545 3. View attachment 309546 I Don't want to sound Helpless but I cant see the complete wire set up in my head without it pictures the red wire from the coil and the ends from the kill switch to the battery through the receiver? GRRRRRRRR.
On a good note I do have the rudder sorted, sort-of......
View attachment 309548 View attachment 309547 I did look through the Forum for basic Wiring Set-Up but I couldn't find one that showed the kill switch installed. If there is a Thread that would be good too. As always Thank you for everything Team Intlwaters. You are all appreciated.

Chuck,

Your boat looks great, I'm also newbie here but I added and wired a remote kill switch for my 1st boat after the throttle servo stuck, the motor ran full throttle, the boat was in a launch mode, took off the water and turned into an airplane.......luckily no one hurt and after that I can't run a boat without a remote kill switch.

The 2 wires came out of the remote kill switch, 1 of them labeled "go to ignition coil....." will go to the black wire of the ignition coil (1 wire hanging from the ignition coil) and the other wire will go to anywhere on the engine chassis (basically ground of the engine) how it work is when the switch engaged, the ignition coil is grounded and kill the engine, if you want to add a manual kill switch, the 2 wires of the manual kill switch should be parallel with the remote kill switch wires.

 

[Chuck Mason]

OK guys so I filled the fuel bag half way with 50-1 mix and purged the air out of the bag, I placed my finger over the Carb and pulled on the starter rope till my finger was slightly wet. Then opened the high idle to the start position and tried to start….I THINK?
NEXT: I Gave a few good pulls and it would only pop off and sound like it wants to run . . . . .I even hear it pop WELL with 6-10 run revolutions )BRRRRRAAAPPPPPP !! ! !. . . . .

Then burm brup burp blaaaaa blaa bla… NUTHING. . . .

I would then re-prime with my finger and reset the high idle I THINK? and BRRRRRAAAPPPP really sounds like she wants to run but then Nothing . . . . .

The L is set at 1 and 1/8 the H is set at 2 and ¼ The fuel is brand new. The lines are right and the engine is new. THE Drive flex cable is well greased and with no binding, Good spark, stock plug,

The reason I question the idle up position is I have the servos set Reversed so the rudder is left/right and throttle cable rotates clock wise. BUT when I program the start IDLE postilion it may be in reverse? IDK.

What AM I MISSING? For now going to read up on the FlySky G4 unit (My RADIO) and see IF it has a setting for the start/run idle position. Grrrrrrr. I want it to run.
FEW MORE PICS
FYI I have the cooling lines routed and tested for leaking and all is well.
I realy like the cable ran throttle it is Far more clean and easy to set-up