LIL RASKEL HELP

[Rick Raffaelli]

Oops,wrong pic first.

View attachment 1757

 

[ClayGlover]

well, better to ask late than never d00d. I presume the question is if you want to spend money to get it more user friendly (read as "less cussing") and potentially better performance, or make the rest of the hardware that will work with what you've already got.

I see you've got some of the straight-shaft/ u-joint hardware already. If you want to work with what you've got, just add an angled strut to match the shafts angle. or do a square drive at the stub, like another u-joint just prior to the strut to allow adjustment. You may want to locate the prop preferably behind the transom some vs. under the rear bottom to help the hull geometry with that motor's "extra" power? just a thought.

You'll want the bottom of the tub to be near level when placed on a flat table with the front sponsons attached, and the rear resting on the bottom of the strut (without turn fin, shaft, or prop installed). pictures speak a lot, so here's one borrowed from rcboat.com to help, it's using a flexshaft setup, but the principle still applies-

or click here to do some good reading about a typical outrigger setup. you'll have the challenge of limited adjustability and prop selection that goes with that straight-shaft setup (1/8th" straight shaft, correct?)

if you take Chris's advice, which is GOOD advice, you'll need to buy or make a new flexshaft-type coupler, flexshaft, prop, drivedog, and strut along the lines of Rick's picture above. some benefits of the flex setup are prop depth and angle adjustment, and with the more popular 3/16" shaft diameter, a better choice of props. (you could use brass tubing shims on that 1/8" straight-shaft to get 3/16" props to work I guess, so one less thing)

lots of info and pics on this site in pasts threads about small riggers. browse these links below-

http://www.intlwaters.com/index.php?showto...92;.12+hardware

http://www.intlwaters.com/index.php?showto...#092;.12+rigger

http://www.intlwaters.com/index.php?showto...#092;.12+rigger

http://www.intlwaters.com/index.php?showto...#092;.12+rigger

http://www.intlwaters.com/index.php?showto...&hl=firefighter

 

[Propjockey]

Here's my homemade hardware set-up...

 

[Don Templeton]

Chris:

I think Rick's strut set up is all Octura. I use the .130 flex drive.

Part# OC6SBCOML-130 Strut assembly gives you the complete strut assembly with mounting bracket, 18" of flex shaft, 1/16" stub shaft (counter bored for the flex shaft), drive dog and teflon tube. My catolog says $33.95.

Part# OCFH5MM13 Flex Hex for joining .130 cable to a 5MM threaded shaft. $8.95.

These will be everything you need for the drive line except for 3/16"OD brass tube and prop.

Your boat looks set up perfectly for this drive system. If you want the strut in aluminum just add an "A" after the -130 on the top part number.

To line my stuffing box up with the engine I use a Flex Hex #OCFH5MM15 and insert a short length of 3/16" solid shaft thru the firewall. Then I slide on about a 1" long 7/32"OD brass tube and glue it in solid thru the firewall. This holds the front of the stuffing tube and gives you a good straight line to the engine before you start shaping it.

I figure you want to make the turn fin yourself.

Anyway, that's how I would do it! :blink:

Don

P.S. I'm assuming your engine has a 5MM threaded shaft. The 3/16" OD stuffing tube fits right into the brass nose piece on the strut. The strut will come with a fin on the bottom. Get rid of it!

 

[Don Templeton]

Just remember, a rigger is made to run on only one blade of the prop in the water. A rigger prop provides push and lift which creates much higher RPM with the other blade free of work. It does take a little time or a good launch to get the boat free of the water but once on top look out.

"RICK"

It looks like your's runs pretty clean. Can you give us an idea of what prop to use and some dimensions like strut depth, angle, rear sponson depth, etc.

Don

 

[Rick Raffaelli]

Yes it is all Octura. OC6SBEPA Strut blade with nose piece and sleeve bearings. .130cable,.187 prop shaft. V937/3 prop. Also ran a 1640, was'nt nearly as fast but easier to launch. The rear spons are 9/16 below the tub and the strut bottom is even with them. Maybe 1 degree of kick up on the back of shaft. I raised it up and the rear was too wet,lowered it and the back end waddled like a penguin on crack. Just try 16th inch adjustments until your happy. Maybe I just got lucky with mine but it's never given me any trouble at all.

View attachment 1774

 

[mach10_shooter]

Where would be the best place to buy these items?

Thank you everyone for all of the helpful info.

Chris

 

[Guest]

Chris,

You need to call Octura at the number I E-mailed you earlier. Very nice people to talk to and you'll probaby get it in 2 to 3 days. Sorry, but I don't have the number here at work.

Don

 

[Ron Olson]

Call Gary Preusse, he hould have everthing in stock and is cheaper than paying retail. He has set up several of us. Tell him what boat that you are throwing it in ad he pretty much does the rest. He has a special package that he had done from Octura with aluminum parts where they can be used. He has set me and Steve Hauge among others with this setup. His number again, 630-279-2451.

 

[Don Templeton]

Chris:

The number at Octura in Illinois is (847) 674-7351 and if that's the way you want to go, order the exact Part numbers I told you.

However, Ron is probably right. Gary Pruesse is one of the very top boaters in the world and is a designer and tester for Dumas Boats. He has and does hold many world records. Probably be worth talking to! B)

Let us know how things are going and what you end up with Chris. Any questions, and I'm sure there will be, just post them. WE ALL LOVE TO TALK ABOUT BOATS!

Don

 

[ClayGlover]

Preusse has all of the small hard-to-gather stuff at one place. I wish I called him sooner, would have saved a lot of legwork

 

[Dorkhedeos]

Wow, can anyone tell me how to build one of those, it doesnt seem as complex as a tunnel hull, so i might be able to build one.

 

[pa_28r_200]

Hey guys...I've been following this post. I've got the same boat at approximately he same stage of construction with an OS 15 CV-M. I'm going to call Gary Pruese (sp ??) and order strut assembly...I'm not real sure about using double sided tape to attach the rear sponsons though...is this a common practice on smaller rigs ???

Bruce

 

[TomMoorehouse]

double sided servo tape will hold 45 size sponsons without problems. you will have no problems with it.

 

[Ron Olson]

Don't use the cheap stuff. I used to use the Bo-Link when I ran R/C trucks and still have some in my boat tool box. I also have some from work that doesn't have the foam that I am using for assembling sponsons, super sticky.

 

[Don Templeton]

Hey guys,

Marty Davis told me the servo tape to use is Trinity. He also said the best way to get it off and remove the sponsons is to cut through it with dental floss. Haven't tried it yet but I'm sure he knows what he's talking about. B)

Don

 

[rcboatlover]

They make a double sided tape for holding carpet that works great too! The stuff is strong as hell and is very thin. You can find it at most home improvenment stores.

Dale P.

 

[Propjockey]

They make a double sided tape for holding carpet that works great too! The stuff is strong as hell and is very thin. You can find it at most home improvenment stores.

How waterproof is it?

 

[pa_28r_200]

One more thing guys....with the OS engine and Octura hardware, what props should I start with ???

Thanks,

Bruce

 

[Rick Raffaelli]

Start out with a 1640 to get the bugs worked out and to make launching easier. Try the v937/3 when ya wanna let it all hang out.