JAP/JAE .12G construction

[TCHedOff]

Hi Ron!

Thanks for the correction - obviously I was wrong.... :lol: .

Here is the pic that fooled me:

 

[TCHedOff]

Dang Pic uploading *^(%(*%^! and the fool uploading them ^*$(&(!!!!!!!

I thought the brass tubing was seperate from that mount... my mistake (and Rod didnt correct me when I asked he about it ). Now I realize what the heck would that mount be FOR if not the strut! :lol: Guess I got lousy vision - clear as day now that you pointed this out (and I feel STUPID!!!!!! :lol: )

NOW I'm concerned about my strut piece & whether the epoxy will be strong enough :huh: - been holding up so far....

 

[LarryConrad]

Dang Pic uploading *^(%(*%^! and the fool uploading them ^*$(&(!!!!!!!
I thought the brass tubing was seperate from that mount... my mistake (and Rod didnt correct me when I asked he about it ). Now I realize what the heck would that mount be FOR if not the strut! :lol: Guess I got loust vision - clear as day now that you pointed this out (and I feel STUPID!!!!!! :lol: )

NOW I'm concerned about my strut piece & whether the epoxy will be strong enough :huh: - been holding up so far....

Rod's a busy man, he can't hold your hand all the time. :lol:

 

[raytam]

Dang Pic uploading *^(%(*%^! and the fool uploading them ^*$(&(!!!!!!!
I thought the brass tubing was seperate from that mount... my mistake (and Rod didnt correct me when I asked he about it ). Now I realize what the heck would that mount be FOR if not the strut! :lol: Guess I got lousy vision - clear as day now that you pointed this out (and I feel STUPID!!!!!! :lol: )

NOW I'm concerned about my strut piece & whether the epoxy will be strong enough :huh: - been holding up so far....

Todd,

what's the total weight of your boat without gas?

Thanks

Ron G

 

[Geraghty]

Dang Pic uploading *^(%(*%^! and the fool uploading them ^*$(&(!!!!!!!
I thought the brass tubing was seperate from that mount... my mistake (and Rod didnt correct me when I asked he about it ). Now I realize what the heck would that mount be FOR if not the strut! :lol: Guess I got lousy vision - clear as day now that you pointed this out (and I feel STUPID!!!!!! :lol: )

NOW I'm concerned about my strut piece & whether the epoxy will be strong enough :huh: - been holding up so far....

Don't worry.....it will be more than strong enough.Trust me,that driveshaft installation you have in your boat isn't going anywhere,ever,ever,ever.....unless you decide to tear it out of there and redo the installation.... B)

 

[Richard Dahlheimer]

Dang Pic uploading *^(%(*%^! and the fool uploading them ^*$(&(!!!!!!!
I thought the brass tubing was seperate from that mount... my mistake (and Rod didnt correct me when I asked he about it ). Now I realize what the heck would that mount be FOR if not the strut! :lol: Guess I got lousy vision - clear as day now that you pointed this out (and I feel STUPID!!!!!! :lol: )

NOW I'm concerned about my strut piece & whether the epoxy will be strong enough :huh: - been holding up so far....

Don't worry.....it will be more than strong enough.Trust me,that driveshaft installation you have in your boat isn't going anywhere,ever,ever,ever.....unless you decide to tear it out of there and redo the installation.... B)

Todd, you have a good build there! Look how easy your boat launched, etc. The speed will come with time! ( once the piston and sleeve get seasoned) That thing was still squeaky tight up top. If you havnt already done this; make a good pipe mount for your boat and start running lots of laps. I would leave the pipe length where its at until you get used to driving the boat. Richard D

 

[Ron Zaker Jr]

Hi Ron!
Thanks for the correction - obviously I was wrong.... :lol: .

Here is the pic that fooled me:

ok cool.

 

[TCHedOff]

Dang Pic uploading *^(%(*%^! and the fool uploading them ^*$(&(!!!!!!!
I thought the brass tubing was seperate from that mount... my mistake (and Rod didnt correct me when I asked he about it ). Now I realize what the heck would that mount be FOR if not the strut! :lol: Guess I got lousy vision - clear as day now that you pointed this out (and I feel STUPID!!!!!! :lol: )

NOW I'm concerned about my strut piece & whether the epoxy will be strong enough :huh: - been holding up so far....

Todd,

what's the total weight of your boat without gas?

Thanks

Ron G

Total weight is 1023 gms (2-1/4 lbs).... could be built lighter (eg no paint, and no baitbox bulkhead etc) ; I didnt realize it could be built w/o a baitbox (so I made one 'cause my .21 has one).

I still need to make a pipe mount... right now I just have a few twisted thin strands of copper wire wrapped around the pipe and going to my 3rd channel needle mount hole to hold the pipe on (its popped off the coupler a couple times already). Hope to take it out again today for soem more break in.

 

[LarryConrad]

Your boat drives like a dream. Get some stick time driving it, and your confidence level and the performance of the boat will increase at the same time, as the motor loosens up, and your driving tightens up. Run a set course,instead of just meandering around the pond. If you concentrate on improving your driving technique you will be able to handle that boat when the motor starts to really show you what it is capable of.

 

[TomMoorehouse]

I'm moving along with my build. I need more shop time! Sure is colorfull!

 

[wmupilot]

An observation to share....
I bought a Hughey .150 to 3/16 flexshaft & propshaft preassembled (which I promptly proceed to cut too short :huh: :lol: ). If you chose to use Glenn Quarles Fuller's Fast Electric mini strut (not the one that kicks back).... you'll find the propshaft is quite long and even w/ the proper gapping between propshaft & flextube inside the strut and between the end of the strut and the drive dog, you'll still find need something to get the prop nut to push the prop up againt the drive dog - and Glenn suggested a piece of fuel tubing. Great solution! Thanks Glenn!

Meanwhile ordered another .150 to 3/16 flexshaft to propshaft.... this time from FunRCBoats. The propshaft from them is MUCH shorter than the Hughey one. Either can be made to work, but they ARE different.

tood why are you not using .130 ..it is much stronger than the .150 cable. i know it sounds funny but i have been told that alot by guys and proven it in my 12 boat. and you can make your own .. buy the octura setup and you can get it with the 3/16 propshaft all the other goodies all for around 11.00 and it is easy to make one..i bet larry conrad could help you out there..

terry

:huh: Terry, Leave Todd alone, he is busy trying to re-invent the wheel.

Ron,

What size flexshaft do you recommend, .130 or .150?

Thanks,

Rhett

 

[Geraghty]

An observation to share....
I bought a Hughey .150 to 3/16 flexshaft & propshaft preassembled (which I promptly proceed to cut too short :huh: :lol: ). If you chose to use Glenn Quarles Fuller's Fast Electric mini strut (not the one that kicks back).... you'll find the propshaft is quite long and even w/ the proper gapping between propshaft & flextube inside the strut and between the end of the strut and the drive dog, you'll still find need something to get the prop nut to push the prop up againt the drive dog - and Glenn suggested a piece of fuel tubing. Great solution! Thanks Glenn!

Meanwhile ordered another .150 to 3/16 flexshaft to propshaft.... this time from FunRCBoats. The propshaft from them is MUCH shorter than the Hughey one. Either can be made to work, but they ARE different.

tood why are you not using .130 ..it is much stronger than the .150 cable. i know it sounds funny but i have been told that alot by guys and proven it in my 12 boat. and you can make your own .. buy the octura setup and you can get it with the 3/16 propshaft all the other goodies all for around 11.00 and it is easy to make one..i bet larry conrad could help you out there..

terry

:huh: Terry, Leave Todd alone, he is busy trying to re-invent the wheel.

Ron,

What size flexshaft do you recommend, .130 or .150?

Thanks,

Rhett

I personally like .150".......

 

[Ron Olson]

Rod, Gary Preusse called me one day looking ot see if I had any Octura short .125/.130" cable collets as Octura had quit making them for a while. He had been running the .150" cables but found out from Ed Hughey that the .125" cables were actually stronger than the .150" so he was taking his .12 rigger back down.

 

[Geraghty]

Rod, Gary Preusse called me one day looking ot see if I had any Octura short .125/.130" cable collets as Octura had quit making them for a while. He had been running the .150" cables but found out from Ed Hughey that the .125" cables were actually stronger than the .150" so he was taking his .12 rigger back down.

Ron,

It must have been a difference in the cable material that Hughey was using.........This is all I know for a fact.........

We have been using the .150" cables [Hughey & Octura] with absolutely no issues and we have been running some really big props trying to knot them up.......also with the .150" cable I can also use teflon liners if I chose in a 1/4" stuffing box.The .150" cable is supported well in the teflon and I don't have to be taking the shaft in and out all the time for grease......

If in fact the Hughey .130" cables are stronger than the .150" cables,by definition,mechanically the .130" cables have to be stiffer.With any wire wrapped cable that is being bent ,stiffer is not better.The center strands in the cable have to be supple and be able to move to compensate for the changes in cable radii........

Also,it must have been awhile ago since Gary called you because I just received an order of [6] .150" short Octura collets from Octura via Gary.........

Truth be known,both cable diameters [.130/.150"] are probably just fine that is why I said "personally" I liked the .150" cable only for the reasons I stated above..... B)

Later,Rod

 

[Preston_Hall]

3/16" cables are faster. So far anyway.

 

[Geraghty]

3/16" cables are faster. So far anyway.

I wouldn't doubt that a bit....

 

[BigBryon]

Rod or others

What thickness of wood are you using for the ride pad that the suffing tube goes into?

Thanks

BigBryon

 

[Geraghty]

Rod or others
What thickness of wood are you using for the ride pad that the suffing tube goes into?

Thanks

BigBryon

3/32 sides with 1/16 sheeting on the bottom

 

[BigBryon]

Rod

Thanks for the info.

BigB

 

[TCHedOff]

Just a comment for those as new to building/driving as myself (and this doesnt appear to be on the plans)....

Rod instructed me to go w/a 3pc sponson tube design, with the idea that if/when I hit something, I'd brake the middle tube, and thereby save my boat and sponson from damage. The piece glued into the tub and the piece glued into the sponson are smaller, the middle section middle between the tub & sponson is larger dia.

This worked exactly as promised a few days ago.... I wanted to show off parking it at the end of a run, and held WOT til @30 ft from shore and tried to kill it.... the throttle servo had died (HS-85) and before I could react further, the boat had run up on the sandy bank. Tubes broke... no other damage... made new tubes in @1hr that evening (I'm slow) & scavenged a servo from my .21.

However, IF you drive your boaty into a large wooden frame around a drainage pipe :huh: :lol: This could happen:

(You can see what I hit in post #57 - last pic... where the boat is running.... look at the far side of the pond )