JAE-strut choice and installation detail

[David Meloni]

Nightmare,

Those where awesome, the .21 looked like it was performing well. "Your son was on the wheel".

We all need to know that nitro RULES over pump gas set-ups.

Short circuit performance at it's best.

-Dave

 

[Rick Sowell]

Alexander: If you are using a .150 cable with a 3/16 stub you should have a 7/32 stuffing tube installed in your boat, that is to run without a teflon liner. the instructions say to use 1/4 tube and that is for a .187 cable with 3/16 stub. I thought that 3/16 cable for a .12 is way over kill on size, I am using a .150 cable. hope this helps you out. Rick

 

[Ron Olson]

View attachment 15497We have these struts blades at CMDI.

The blade weighs 10 grams (1/3 oz.)

Also have a one piece strut-rudder bracket that should work on the .12 rigger.

These Strut blades are also large enough for most .21 boats.

Andy, a little OT (OK, a lot off-topic) but do you have any of those 15N pipes in stock?

 

[tmunn]

Alexander .You will want to use the 1/4" o.d. ks tubing as per the directions and no teflon tube.7/32 would be fine if you were running straight back out the bottom of a boat with the brass and then a nice gentle curve toward the strut but with the S bend I would not use the 7/32 personally but this hobby is full of opinions and more than one way to get the job done.I am in no way slamming rick S, but i would not decrease the tubing size personally for this configuration.

Another thing is that most of the struts for these smaller boats has a hole in the strut for a 1/4" tube so the strut would have to be shimmed down witha a peice of 1/4 so the 7/32 would not be too sloppy..

I have used 7/32 and no liner and .150 cable on my vegas but i would not on the JAE 12.

IMHO

If you have heated your brass as per directions and the carefully bent it as per directions and play with the bend where it comes out the boat you should be able to get it like the diagram.

I do not know what strut you have for sure but if it were me i would modify it drill it out or remove the bushings so the 1/4" ks tubing will fit right through the hole in your strut and cut the tubing flush with the back of the strut and use one of the strut bushings that many people sell or make your own.

If that strut has bushings , that MAY be causing you some trouble.

Terry

If you need something explained better you can pm me your # and i could call you.

 

[Andy Brown]

View attachment 15497We have these struts blades at CMDI.

The blade weighs 10 grams (1/3 oz.)

Also have a one piece strut-rudder bracket that should work on the .12 rigger.

These Strut blades are also large enough for most .21 boats.

Andy, a little OT (OK, a lot off-topic) but do you have any of those 15N pipes in stock?

Working on those right now...should be ready to ship in two weeks.

 

[Alexander King]

Alexander .You will want to use the 1/4" o.d. ks tubing as per the directions and no teflon tube.7/32 would be fine if you were running straight back out the bottom of a boat with the brass and then a nice gentle curve toward the strut but with the S bend I would not use the 7/32 personally but this hobby is full of opinions and more than one way to get the job done.I am in no way slamming rick S, but i would not decrease the tubing size personally for this configuration.

Another thing is that most of the struts for these smaller boats has a hole in the strut for a 1/4" tube so the strut would have to be shimmed down witha a peice of 1/4 so the 7/32 would not be too sloppy..

I have used 7/32 and no liner and .150 cable on my vegas but i would not on the JAE 12.

IMHO

If you have heated your brass as per directions and the carefully bent it as per directions and play with the bend where it comes out the boat you should be able to get it like the diagram.

I do not know what strut you have for sure but if it were me i would modify it drill it out or remove the bushings so the 1/4" ks tubing will fit right through the hole in your strut and cut the tubing flush with the back of the strut and use one of the strut bushings that many people sell or make your own.

If that strut has bushings , that MAY be causing you some trouble.

Terry

If you need something explained better you can pm me your # and i could call you.

Everyone thanks for the Info and insight on the matter... I think I came up with a solution but I need a few things .. I'm going to run the teflon liner.. Yeah! I know hard to get in there and all that stuff but that is what I plan to do(FYI secret to getting the teflon into the stuffing box is to heat the brass tube with heat gun just enough where you can touch it and slide the cold tube in.) Also, I think I have the strut problem solved I had to add a 9/32" tub then fit the 1/4" inside to fit the strut. I'm still playing with the idea of the bass wood block on the transom to get the strut far enough back to hit the ski sheeting where it suppose to.. so it just a matter of thinking it through. My problem right now is that my wood motor mount split even with the 1/16" pilot hole drilled. Im going back to try to zap the hole an re drill the hole again. keep your finger crossed for me!

 

[carlnoki]

Alex;

In my honest opinion, I would NOT run the teflon tubing inside the brass stuffing box.

Most of us here have done so in the past and have had our share of the teflon tubing galling up

and wrapping itself around the flex shaft and then have to remove the ENTIRE stuffing box

and the flex shaft from the boat as a single piece of ruined junk.

Carl

 

[Andy Brown]

Alex;

In my honest opinion, I would NOT run the teflon tubing inside the brass stuffing box.

Most of us here have done so in the past and have had our share of the teflon tubing galling up

and wrapping itself around the flex shaft and then have to remove the ENTIRE stuffing box

and the flex shaft from the boat as a single piece of ruined junk.

Carl

DITTO.... Brass is Fast!....and simple too!

 

[Tom Foley]

Alex;

In my honest opinion, I would NOT run the teflon tubing inside the brass stuffing box.

Most of us here have done so in the past and have had our share of the teflon tubing galling up

and wrapping itself around the flex shaft and then have to remove the ENTIRE stuffing box

and the flex shaft from the boat as a single piece of ruined junk.

Carl

[/quote

Double Ditto !! The teflon liner is one of the biggest fallacies in this hobby . Brass all the way , lasts almost forever !

 

[tmunn]

FYI the secret is not to use teflon ,It will overheat, melt and get caught in the flrx cable and ball up like look luke a snake that ate a mouse.then if you did cut your cable in halv and loose your prop, drive dog and prop nut , you still need to rmove your brass and re-do another stuffing tube.

1/4" brass tubing only NO TEFLON tube not 7/32" brass tubing ..Listen to these guys that have been there and done that and your more likely to get more help..

I have made enough mistakes to be qualified to know..

 

[153stars]

Alexander .You will want to use the 1/4" o.d. ks tubing as per the directions and no teflon tube.7/32 would be fine if you were running straight back out the bottom of a boat with the brass and then a nice gentle curve toward the strut but with the S bend I would not use the 7/32 personally but this hobby is full of opinions and more than one way to get the job done.I am in no way slamming rick S, but i would not decrease the tubing size personally for this configuration.

Another thing is that most of the struts for these smaller boats has a hole in the strut for a 1/4" tube so the strut would have to be shimmed down witha a peice of 1/4 so the 7/32 would not be too sloppy..

I have used 7/32 and no liner and .150 cable on my vegas but i would not on the JAE 12.

IMHO

If you have heated your brass as per directions and the carefully bent it as per directions and play with the bend where it comes out the boat you should be able to get it like the diagram.

I do not know what strut you have for sure but if it were me i would modify it drill it out or remove the bushings so the 1/4" ks tubing will fit right through the hole in your strut and cut the tubing flush with the back of the strut and use one of the strut bushings that many people sell or make your own.

If that strut has bushings , that MAY be causing you some trouble.

Terry

If you need something explained better you can pm me your # and i could call you.

I originally had the 1/4" tube bent & in the boat"per kit directions" the .150 cable seemed awful sloppy in it,my bends were as gentle as possible and I grooved out the tub front@top and rear@bottom for a better transition with the 7/32 it was even esier.I thought the boats were originally using teflon liners. The 7/32" is smooth as silk. It has the feel of more slop than most of my 3/16" shaft boats.I am going to step it up to 1/4" through the strut so I can use replaceable brass bushing as they hold they feed grease-oil better.The 3/16-.187 shafts spin freely in 7/32" for a bushing i fugire there about .188+ that's .038+ larger .014+ clearance.If it's a bit tight at the bends I'll hope for a little wear in.Lord knows I have made every mistake you can ,but the shaft seems to spin pretty good.I didn't want any chatter out of it.Most of these guy's have been building way longer than me so you better go with the consensus on this one.

 

[tmunn]

Mark, it will prolly be fine .I just used the 1/4" from and bent it per directions and down and out the bottom and through the strut and will use the standard bushing with all the holes in them.

I can see where the 7/32 would fit better because of the reduced diameter and perhaps more gradual bends.

I am now trying to figure out a way to increase radio box clearance so I can mount my trottle servo and 3rd channel like your and not hid the radio box lid.They are very tight using the HS 85MG.

 

[Geraghty]

Mark, it will prolly be fine .I just used the 1/4" from and bent it per directions and down and out the bottom and through the strut and will use the standard bushing with all the holes in them.

I can see where the 7/32 would fit better because of the reduced diameter and perhaps more gradual bends.

I am now trying to figure out a way to increase radio box clearance so I can mount my trottle servo and 3rd channel like your and not hid the radio box lid.They are very tight using the HS 85MG.

Mount the servos flat laying down....

 

[Alexander King]

Mark, it will prolly be fine .I just used the 1/4" from and bent it per directions and down and out the bottom and through the strut and will use the standard bushing with all the holes in them.

I can see where the 7/32 would fit better because of the reduced diameter and perhaps more gradual bends.

I am now trying to figure out a way to increase radio box clearance so I can mount my trottle servo and 3rd channel like your and not hid the radio box lid.They are very tight using the HS 85MG.

Mount the servos flat laying down....

OK went with No teflon and the 1/4" stuffing box with the .150 cable on 3/16 stub shaft. Going to make a call to a hobby shop I was directed to for some other help and go from there...

 

[153stars]

Mark, it will prolly be fine .I just used the 1/4" from and bent it per directions and down and out the bottom and through the strut and will use the standard bushing with all the holes in them.

I can see where the 7/32 would fit better because of the reduced diameter and perhaps more gradual bends.

I am now trying to figure out a way to increase radio box clearance so I can mount my trottle servo and 3rd channel like your and not hid the radio box lid.They are very tight using the HS 85MG.

Seems like more servo than you need im just trying out these hb 65servos but gooeycheese says they hold up he uses the MG ver.He's been doing the .12 thing for a while. Can you grind the tops of the horns and heat & bend the arm down a little. have to use clevis for sure. May have to counter sink the screw some more too.Are the mg82's shorter?They're supposed to hold up better than mg81's.How much do you need the above might get you 1/32".My servos also came with some lighter horns also I don't know if the splines are the same between the mini and micro. Or if it would help you at all "shorter or not".Dubro sells some packages of light weight arms for planes. No extra plastic on those"shorter?".Aluminum horns ground out to the max??? But the ones I used for cars have bigger holes.

Good luck

 

[Ron Olson]

The 81's and 82's are the same size, I've got both of them here. The 82's are supposed to be corrected 81's.

 

[HOTWATER]

Mark, it will prolly be fine .I just used the 1/4" from and bent it per directions and down and out the bottom and through the strut and will use the standard bushing with all the holes in them.

I can see where the 7/32 would fit better because of the reduced diameter and perhaps more gradual bends.

I am now trying to figure out a way to increase radio box clearance so I can mount my trottle servo and 3rd channel like your and not hid the radio box lid.They are very tight using the HS 85MG.

Mount the servos flat laying down....

ok gentlemen!

a vote by hands which way? I wont use the teflon liner though I never had problems with them being I grease the cable before and after every 3 runs in the pass. But I'm willing to try something different..... the bear tube sounds good but 1/4" tube with a .150 flex cable tell me ... wont this whip around in there???? Please a clear path is all I need then Its going to get done....

I am with you here on this! 7/32" is the right size tube (without teflon) to use for .150 cable. The 1/4" tubing would be great for .187. I'm sure that most of the FE guys would agree with that also...

-Kent

 

[Ub Hauled]

View attachment 15497We have these struts blades at CMDI.

The blade weighs 10 grams (1/3 oz.)

Also have a one piece strut-rudder bracket that should work on the .12 rigger.

These Strut blades are also large enough for most .21 boats.

Andy, would you mind posting a product ID (or reference name) and pricing please?

 

[Alexander King]

Mark, it will prolly be fine .I just used the 1/4" from and bent it per directions and down and out the bottom and through the strut and will use the standard bushing with all the holes in them.

I can see where the 7/32 would fit better because of the reduced diameter and perhaps more gradual bends.

I am now trying to figure out a way to increase radio box clearance so I can mount my trottle servo and 3rd channel like your and not hid the radio box lid.They are very tight using the HS 85MG.

Mount the servos flat laying down....

OK went with No teflon and the 1/4" stuffing box with the .150 cable on 3/16 stub shaft. Going to make a call to a hobby shop I was directed to for some other help and go from there...

 

[Nigtmare]

Mark, it will prolly be fine .I just used the 1/4" from and bent it per directions and down and out the bottom and through the strut and will use the standard bushing with all the holes in them.

I can see where the 7/32 would fit better because of the reduced diameter and perhaps more gradual bends.

I am now trying to figure out a way to increase radio box clearance so I can mount my trottle servo and 3rd channel like your and not hid the radio box lid.They are very tight using the HS 85MG.

Mount the servos flat laying down....

OK went with No teflon and the 1/4" stuffing box with the .150 cable on 3/16 stub shaft. Going to make a call to a hobby shop I was directed to for some other help and go from there...

now make some brass bushings for the shaft and you will never look back

Nick