JAE-strut choice and installation detail

[opio]

So from reading this, the Zipkits strut is not the best choice to use?

its fine, just turn it around and then cut the nose cone off...

well ill be......... lol thanks easy enough!

 

[mtruex]

So from reading this, the Zipkits strut is not the best choice to use?

its fine, just turn it around and then cut the nose cone off...

well ill be......... lol thanks easy enough!

exactly!!!

 

[Ron Olson]

I dunno Martin as mine probably won't see water until next spring but that Zippkit's one has to be better than the Octura I've hanging off the transom of my first one as it sets back further so the "bullet" shouldn't be as affected with the ski. Right now my strut appears to be sitting too high.

 

[tmunn]

During a new build, given the option is there a more desirable location than an other as far as having the prop in front of or beside or behind the rudder or does it even matter.

Check out the pic of the strut i made that is on my build...just in case you guys have an old vegas strut laying around.I modded one(not quite done yet) and am making a L bracket from aluminum when i get to that part

 

[TinoAlmanza]

View attachment 15497We have these struts blades at CMDI.

The blade weighs 10 grams (1/3 oz.)

Also have a one piece strut-rudder bracket that should work on the .12 rigger.

These Strut blades are also large enough for most .21 boats.

Mr. Brown, sorry for being a knucklehead but I'm still pretty new to this. Do you have some form of pushrod seal that fits in the oblonged hole in the mount?

I know that it is becoming a more common practice lately, but we never build boats where the Transom is a sealing member to the electronics, so I did not design the bracket to do that. However, it is entirely possible to mount a pushrod seal on the inside of the transom.

Thanks a ton for the answer. Reason I ask is I run FE so I do need the entire hull to be as water tight as possible. Alot of the nitro and gas hardware are amazing but just don't always work for us.

 

[Andy Brown]

View attachment 15497We have these struts blades at CMDI.

The blade weighs 10 grams (1/3 oz.)

Also have a one piece strut-rudder bracket that should work on the .12 rigger.

These Strut blades are also large enough for most .21 boats.

Mr. Brown, sorry for being a knucklehead but I'm still pretty new to this. Do you have some form of pushrod seal that fits in the oblonged hole in the mount?

I know that it is becoming a more common practice lately, but we never build boats where the Transom is a sealing member to the electronics, so I did not design the bracket to do that. However, it is entirely possible to mount a pushrod seal on the inside of the transom.

Thanks a ton for the answer. Reason I ask is I run FE so I do need the entire hull to be as water tight as possible. Alot of the nitro and gas hardware are amazing but just don't always work for us.

We don't want water in the electronics either. That's why I personally would never use the transom as a direct bulkhead of the radio box. Sealing the transom hardware works, but it's not fully reliable. I know electrics often times don't have a choice and have to use the transom to seal out water because of space limitations.

Anyway I mainly posted for the purpose of the strut blade. There are many simple bracket solutions.

 

[Bill Gibson]

So from reading this, the Zipkits strut is not the best choice to use?

its fine, just turn it around and then cut the nose cone off...

Im going to order all the hardware that zippkits offers and and do just that to the strut they are selling....the price they are asking for the water pick up rudder and strut seems pretty reasonable to me...if they offered the motor mounts for the boat, then one could get most everything they neeeded from zippkits to complete the boat.....

 

[tmunn]

Bill, i have only dealt with joe at zipkits once so far but he will take your call's answer your questions even when he is busy and seems like a real good guy.If it had not been for using up what i have here .I would definatly bought the hardware from Zipkits.I plan to do that with my 21 i am on the list for but then again i have a fair bit of stuff here for another boat build also....

I too like one stop shopping amd saving shipping costs.His prices are very reasonable and should woek well.

 

[Alex King]

I have ordered most of my hardware from Zipp and I just got the strut today. Sorry for the blurry photos but here is the strut in position, I will use one half of the bracket to hold the strut in place.. I also used a small block of bass wood to move the prop back some. Nothing is glued in Photos this is a dry run to find out what I need to do .. I will cut off the nose on the strut ( as you see in the photos its too long) but I feel I need to leave at least 1/4" for the stuffing box to enter the strut and to support the stub shaft... Rod G whats your opinion on location and half bracket set up on strut?

 

[tmunn]

I am not rod by any means but from what i can tell is if you cut the nose off your strut and mount it down on the ski and parallel with the bottom of the boat like in his diagram your good to go.

Did you need the bass wood because you left so much of an overhang on the rear of the tub bottom ? or is the bracket a little short.

Just a thought to eliminate the wood.Drill another hole in the bracket farther back for the bolt the strut slides on. and using one side of the bracket is not an issue I do it on my 21.rigger

 

[Alex King]

I am not rod by any means but from what i can tell is if you cut the nose off your strut and mount it down on the ski and parallel with the bottom of the boat like in his diagram your good to go.

Did you need the bass wood because you left so much of an overhang on the rear of the tub bottom ? or is the bracket a little short.

Just a thought to eliminate the wood.Drill another hole in the bracket farther back for the bolt the strut slides on. and using one side of the bracket is not an issue I do it on my 21.rigger

Yup! Its going to work and that is the Zipp Strut that Im using. I had to add another block of bass wood to move the strut back some more.. Adding the extra block of bass is fine... bass is pretty light and it will make the transom stronger. I didn't add the blocks due to the over hang which is 1/8" on the transom on my boat. But I did add the block to get the clearance for the strut on the ski. I had everything taped together. So, I will do some gluing tomorrow night. Im finishing up on the sponsons and I have to add the nose blocks and do some sanding tomorrow night. I will post some more photos of the strut area tomorrow. hope Rod will chime in on this to give his blessing.

 

[Nigtmare]

I have ordered most of my hardware from Zipp and I just got the strut today. Sorry for the blurry photos but here is the strut in position, I will use one half of the bracket to hold the strut in place.. I also used a small block of bass wood to move the prop back some. Nothing is glued in Photos this is a dry run to find out what I need to do .. I will cut off the nose on the strut ( as you see in the photos its too long) but I feel I need to leave at least 1/4" for the stuffing box to enter the strut and to support the stub shaft... Rod G whats your opinion on location and half bracket set up on strut?

View attachment 15621View attachment 15622View attachment 15623View attachment 15624

If I was you I would turn the strut around and just cut the cone part off. B)

Nick

 

[J Solinger]

I was able to squeeze mine down pretty close. It should do fine.

 

[Ron Zaker Jr]

View attachment 15497We have these struts blades at CMDI.

The blade weighs 10 grams (1/3 oz.)

Also have a one piece strut-rudder bracket that should work on the .12 rigger.

These Strut blades are also large enough for most .21 boats.

Mr. Brown, sorry for being a knucklehead but I'm still pretty new to this. Do you have some form of pushrod seal that fits in the oblonged hole in the mount?

I know that it is becoming a more common practice lately, but we never build boats where the Transom is a sealing member to the electronics, so I did not design the bracket to do that. However, it is entirely possible to mount a pushrod seal on the inside of the transom.

Thanks a ton for the answer. Reason I ask is I run FE so I do need the entire hull to be as water tight as possible. Alot of the nitro and gas hardware are amazing but just don't always work for us.

We don't want water in the electronics either. That's why I personally would never use the transom as a direct bulkhead of the radio box. Sealing the transom hardware works, but it's not fully reliable. I know electrics often times don't have a choice and have to use the transom to seal out water because of space limitations.

Anyway I mainly posted for the purpose of the strut blade. There are many simple bracket solutions.

 

[Ron Zaker Jr]

View attachment 15497We have these struts blades at CMDI.

The blade weighs 10 grams (1/3 oz.)

Also have a one piece strut-rudder bracket that should work on the .12 rigger.

These Strut blades are also large enough for most .21 boats.

Mr. Brown, sorry for being a knucklehead but I'm still pretty new to this. Do you have some form of pushrod seal that fits in the oblonged hole in the mount?

I know that it is becoming a more common practice lately, but we never build boats where the Transom is a sealing member to the electronics, so I did not design the bracket to do that. However, it is entirely possible to mount a pushrod seal on the inside of the transom.

Thanks a ton for the answer. Reason I ask is I run FE so I do need the entire hull to be as water tight as possible. Alot of the nitro and gas hardware are amazing but just don't always work for us.

We don't want water in the electronics either. That's why I personally would never use the transom as a direct bulkhead of the radio box. Sealing the transom hardware works, but it's not fully reliable. I know electrics often times don't have a choice and have to use the transom to seal out water because of space limitations.

Anyway I mainly posted for the purpose of the strut blade. There are many simple bracket solutions.

Andy,

I have used hardware mounted directly to the transom and NEVER had leak,EVER. A blind transom could also be used.

 

[Alexander King]

I have ordered most of my hardware from Zipp and I just got the strut today. Sorry for the blurry photos but here is the strut in position, I will use one half of the bracket to hold the strut in place.. I also used a small block of bass wood to move the prop back some. Nothing is glued in Photos this is a dry run to find out what I need to do .. I will cut off the nose on the strut ( as you see in the photos its too long) but I feel I need to leave at least 1/4" for the stuffing box to enter the strut and to support the stub shaft... Rod G whats your opinion on location and half bracket set up on strut?

View attachment 15621View attachment 15622View attachment 15623View attachment 15624

If I was you I would turn the strut around and just cut the cone part off. B)

Nick

I don’t think the solution is simply turning around the strut and lop off the nose of the strut. I have a main concern with the stuffing box not being supported and the stub shaft also not having anything to keep it aligns. I have manage to get my strut set up like the drawing Rod has giving us. I had to shorten the nose on the strut some.. I also had to add a bass block on the transom to move the strut back further so I am able to get the strut and stuffing box down to the ski sheet.

Will post to night some photos

J Solinger I see you still have the nose on your strut and your using Teflon tubing what size shaft are you using? And what strut are you using? it appears to be a little different from the strut Zipp kits offer.... I would like to know how your boat runs with the strut in the current position it’s in...

 

[David Meloni]

Nice pic's Joe .

 

[mtruex]

I have ordered most of my hardware from Zipp and I just got the strut today. Sorry for the blurry photos but here is the strut in position, I will use one half of the bracket to hold the strut in place.. I also used a small block of bass wood to move the prop back some. Nothing is glued in Photos this is a dry run to find out what I need to do .. I will cut off the nose on the strut ( as you see in the photos its too long) but I feel I need to leave at least 1/4" for the stuffing box to enter the strut and to support the stub shaft... Rod G whats your opinion on location and half bracket set up on strut?

View attachment 15621View attachment 15622View attachment 15623View attachment 15624

If I was you I would turn the strut around and just cut the cone part off. B)

Nick

I don’t think the solution is simply turning around the strut and lop off the nose of the strut. I have a main concern with the stuffing box not being supported and the stub shaft also not having anything to keep it aligns. I have manage to get my strut set up like the drawing Rod has giving us. I had to shorten the nose on the strut some.. I also had to add a bass block on the transom to move the strut back further so I am able to get the strut and stuffing box down to the ski sheet.

Will post to night some photos

J Solinger I see you still have the nose on your strut and your using Teflon tubing what size shaft are you using? And what strut are you using? it appears to be a little different from the strut Zipp kits offer.... I would like to know how your boat runs with the strut in the current position it’s in...

turning the strut around and cutting off the nose works fine, the brass tubing should run all the way to the back of the strut, then your bushing rides inside of that...if you plan on running a strut with led teflon bushing then the brass tube only needs to go into the strut like 3/8 of an inch..

 

[Nigtmare]

I have ordered most of my hardware from Zipp and I just got the strut today. Sorry for the blurry photos but here is the strut in position, I will use one half of the bracket to hold the strut in place.. I also used a small block of bass wood to move the prop back some. Nothing is glued in Photos this is a dry run to find out what I need to do .. I will cut off the nose on the strut ( as you see in the photos its too long) but I feel I need to leave at least 1/4" for the stuffing box to enter the strut and to support the stub shaft... Rod G whats your opinion on location and half bracket set up on strut?

View attachment 15621View attachment 15622View attachment 15623View attachment 15624

If I was you I would turn the strut around and just cut the cone part off. B)

Nick

I don’t think the solution is simply turning around the strut and lop off the nose of the strut. I have a main concern with the stuffing box not being supported and the stub shaft also not having anything to keep it aligns. I have manage to get my strut set up like the drawing Rod has giving us. I had to shorten the nose on the strut some.. I also had to add a bass block on the transom to move the strut back further so I am able to get the strut and stuffing box down to the ski sheet.

Will post to night some photos

J Solinger I see you still have the nose on your strut and your using Teflon tubing what size shaft are you using? And what strut are you using? it appears to be a little different from the strut Zipp kits offer.... I would like to know how your boat runs with the strut in the current position it’s in...

I think you should have another look at Rods image the front of the strut is at the end of the ski and the strut extends to the rear. if you need to make any changes to the stuffing box do it now before you glue it. Nick

 

[Alexander King]

I have ordered most of my hardware from Zipp and I just got the strut today. Sorry for the blurry photos but here is the strut in position, I will use one half of the bracket to hold the strut in place.. I also used a small block of bass wood to move the prop back some. Nothing is glued in Photos this is a dry run to find out what I need to do .. I will cut off the nose on the strut ( as you see in the photos its too long) but I feel I need to leave at least 1/4" for the stuffing box to enter the strut and to support the stub shaft... Rod G whats your opinion on location and half bracket set up on strut?

View attachment 15621View attachment 15622View attachment 15623View attachment 15624

If I was you I would turn the strut around and just cut the cone part off. B)

Nick

I don’t think the solution is simply turning around the strut and lop off the nose of the strut. I have a main concern with the stuffing box not being supported and the stub shaft also not having anything to keep it aligns. I have manage to get my strut set up like the drawing Rod has giving us. I had to shorten the nose on the strut some.. I also had to add a bass block on the transom to move the strut back further so I am able to get the strut and stuffing box down to the ski sheet.

Will post to night some photos

J Solinger I see you still have the nose on your strut and your using Teflon tubing what size shaft are you using? And what strut are you using? it appears to be a little different from the strut Zipp kits offer.... I would like to know how your boat runs with the strut in the current position it’s in...

I think you should have another look at Rods image the front of the strut is at the end of the ski and the strut extends to the rear. if you need to make any changes to the stuffing box do it now before you glue it. Nick

yeah I have been looking at that drawing for a long time my eye are bleeding! I have managed to cut enough of the strut nose off to hit just where the drawing says the strut should be. Im confused now though I'm using a .150 cable with he 3/16 stub shaft and the cable has a gang of slop in the stuffing box which is 1/4".. Oh trust me I don't Glue anything without being sure. especially the drive line. That's just would not be smart to glue and ask questions later :lol: