JAE gas rigger (new build)

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A brand new carb what ever the model number or where it comes from can pass some trash in the first tank or two of fuel. I would recomend opening it up and cleaning it out and you might as well change the pump and diaphram while you are in there. A stock zenoha carb used to come with black rubber pump and they dont last long with ethonal fuel. Look for the brown fibber one they seem to hold up better. As far as the diaphram they only make the one. Change those two parts out and check the screen under the pump for trash, put it back to base settings and try it again. Here is the Walbro carb manual, there is alot of info in there so take what you need.

http://wem.walbro.com/distributors/servicemanuals/ServiceManual.pdf
 
Justin you are absolutely right about the issues caused by ethaonal..unfortunetely here in Braziil they put high percentages(22%) of this junk in our car tanks .....main reason I stick to premium gas(more expensive) with lower %'s....I don't know how many times I bought repair kits for walbro carbs to keep them working fine.

Gill

www.grsboats.com.br
 
Two turns out on the low-speed needle and 1 out on the high-speed works for me. I run Coleman or Ozark Trail campstove fuel in mine with 8 oz. per gallon of Honda HP-2 which is enough for 2 gallons per bottle. I've tried Amsoil also, no complaints.

Check for loose bolts on the carb or isolator block as they can vibrate loose. Nothing but IV bags in my gassers. Joe at Zippkit's is now selling those in 250 and 500ml. the 500 will fit with plenty of room in your 'rigger. If you don't have the right stopper in the Sullivan tank the gas will eat it up then give you all kinds of carb problems and it won't be pretty.

Any other help that is needed on the JAE, just ask in here.
 
Thanks for all the info guys ! I really do appreciate it a ton. Im going to head to the hobby room and dig into this . The things we do for a thrill ! LOL
 
I think that I went a little further forward with my CG, 13-1/2" if I remember but 13" should be fine. What's surprising is that it runs very well in what I consider rough water.

If you're using the Zippkit's new pipe, start it out at 13-1/2" (again, that number!) then work it in if it needs it. I ran and ABC 9716/3 10 degree or an Octura V-967/3 which have decent pitch but not a lot of blade area. The boat doesn't seem to like highly pitched props, those with a lot of blade area or a combination of the two.
 
Zack, 1 change at a time, reset the needles and see if it idles. Run it and go from there. Me, I create a notebook on each boat and write down every change, this way you can keep track. Enjoy. B)
 
OK so we just made a few changes. We figured out that we had the carb on backwards. We flipped it the proper direction and re set the needles , flushed out the carb screen , fushed out the tank , flushed out our supply can , re filled with non oxy 91 oct gasoline with 8oz amsoil saber, reassyembled and gave it a pull and it purred like a kitten . A trip to the lake on sunday for a test will see if it needs any further tuning.

So it turns out I had 4 things wrong in this matter . Gasoline , oil , carb and carb settings.

Moral of the story .......... dont put your carb on backwards :rolleyes:

Now ...... what is every one doing for a water shroud for the intake so it doesnt suck water? Ours sticks out the side of the boat. Are there any aftermarket shrouds that bolt on to the carb in any way shape or form? <_<
 
OK so we just made a few changes. We figured out that we had the carb on backwards. We flipped it the proper direction and re set the needles , flushed out the carb screen , fushed out the tank , flushed out our supply can , re filled with non oxy 91 oct gasoline with 8oz amsoil saber, reassyembled and gave it a pull and it purred like a kitten . A trip to the lake on sunday for a test will see if it needs any further tuning.

So it turns out I had 4 things wrong in this matter . Gasoline , oil , carb and carb settings.

Moral of the story .......... dont put your carb on backwards :rolleyes:

Now ...... what is every one doing for a water shroud for the intake so it doesnt suck water? Ours sticks out the side of the boat. Are there any aftermarket shrouds that bolt on to the carb in any way shape or form? <_<
Goods news, cowl should cover carb. Post pics here, don't do Fazzbook. B)
 
Zack's boat from his facebook page:

298046_2254578997474_1038284337_3141572_98192475_n.jpg
 
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That's a good one! I've never done that but just about everything else. Hooked up the fuel line from an IV bag to the fuel return line and wondered why when I was trying to prime the carb the bag would fill with air! What was worse was that I took a picture of that one not realizing at the time that I'd screwed up.

The other rookie mistake was putting the isolator block on upside down and wondering why it wouldn't fire up. Yup, the pulse port must match up to the block and carb. Some also have UP engraved on them for idiots like me.
 
OK, about the cowl. Over on Jim's RC Boat Dock, Tsunami38 is selling epoxy-glas cowls in different styles and widths that will fit most gas 'riggers. He's in the Manufacturer's For Sale forum. The Zippkit's cowl is only good for RE RCMK's like Rodney's.
 
The yellow boat in the pic is definitely not the engine we have . I'm going to check out Jim's stuff . Ps thanks for reporting my pic . My iPad only let's me do so much on here and I wanted to show a pic .
 
Sorry guys, I should have clarified. Thats not my boat. I pulled those pictures from Zack's facebook page and posted here. Zack, is the yellow boat not yours? If so, I will go edit that post and remove it.
 
The yellow boat is not mine. I posted that a long time ago for reference as to what it will look like when completed. I should take that off my page. Sorry for the confusion folks :)
 
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