JAE 21FE Builds

[ww29]

the pic gets to the end of loading and keeps on going and going like the energeize bunny :lol: :lol: something i use alot is a camber gauge from my r/c cars also digital multi-function torpedo level they both help out alot

 

[Ashley Bagdonas]

Im about to start building a JAE21FE, ill be running a NEU 1515 or 1518 if it will fit,

Ive got no idea about electric's (being a nitro man. ) so here is my dumb question

What mount should i get, Inrunner or outrunner style? and will the 1515 have the same bolt spacing as the mount?

 

[chuck st romain]

most 540 mounts will have the correct spacing, 25mm. you will need a inrunner mount.

i will warn you that the 1515 is going to be tight in there and you need to use a castle 240 or other high amp esc. with the 1515 1y (2200kv, the recomended motor for 4s) you are going to need some serious batteries. 5000 mah 4s at minimum and they have to be good quality 30c or more. people say that 5000mah is enough but i have never tried it. i would recomend thunder power or elite. if you use cheap cells like the turnigy you will puff them for sure and a good chance you will go through esc's. i was going to use a 1515 1y but decided against it because i dont think enough battery will fit. i like to use at least 7000 mah with that motor due to the amp draw when playing with props. too small of packs and you run the risk of not having the amp supply when the motor spikes. remember 5000mah 30c can put out 150 amps if it is a good quality pack, a 1515 1y can pull 150 amps easy. if it is a cheap pack things will get hot and it is a fire waiting to happen. in my mono's i run 10,000mah with that motor. that puts 300amps in the tank and everything stays cooler. if you can fit more than 5000 mah you stand a good chance of good results, otherwise the run time is going to be less than 1 minute before heat becomes an issue.

i decided on a ul-1 motor for this boat, it is 2050kv and pulls well below 100 amps with a 45mm prop. i am still going to use a castle 240 just because i have one, then i can play with big props and only have to worry about motor temps. 5000mah 4s 30c pack is what i plan on using because i know from experience this is plenty for that motor. i am expecting to get in the mid 50's with this set-up. i think this is realistic because i have has stock ul-1's in the high 40's to 50.

 

[Ashley Bagdonas]

Thanks for the info,

I was looking at running the follwing setup

Neu 1515, thunder power 5000 45/90C 4s pack and 240amp esc not decided on brand yet.

I was thinking this should all work for run times of 1-1:30??

And not pushing the setup prop wise.

 

[Chilli]

Here is a few pictures of my tub with a UL1 motor. I drilled the tub for the South River RC motor mount and mocked everything up to see if I was on the right track. As you can see, the motor is mounted aft of the bulkhead on about a 15 degree angle. The cooling can is not installed yet, but I'm pretty sure I have plenty of clearance for it. I had to elongate the stuffing tube hole a little less than 1/4" aft to get the stuffing tub at the correct angle. The first pictue shows a 5000 mAh battery sitting in with room to spare. Jims strut is shown on the second pic. I plan on using a little carbon fiber plate between the strut and transom because the strut has a small footprint where it mounts up. Third pic shows the ski with some 3/16" basswood for a little extra mounting bite.

 

[HOTWATER]

Here is a few pictures of my tub with a UL1 motor. I drilled the tub for the South River RC motor mount and mocked everything up to see if I was on the right track. As you can see, the motor is mounted aft of the bulkhead on about a 15 degree angle. The cooling can is not installed yet, but I'm pretty sure I have plenty of clearance for it. I had to elongate the stuffing tube hole a little less than 1/4" aft to get the stuffing tub at the correct angle. The first pictue shows a 5000 mAh battery sitting in with room to spare. Jims strut is shown on the second pic. I plan on using a little carbon fiber plate between the strut and transom because the strut has a small footprint where it mounts up. Third pic shows the ski with some 3/16" basswood for a little extra mounting bite.

Yo! Nice job there Mike! The south river mount looks really sweet!....How 'bout that strut?!! Sweeet! Did Jim send you that strut with the holes in it already? He is sending me another one for my 21FE...he says it will be drilled out like yours.

Hey, I ordered some peices of that G-10 (Garolite) stuff that Don F. recommended to use on the transom (I ordered 4 of them - 6"x6" from Mcmaster Carr)...I'm using them on both JAE .12 and .21FE riggers. Pm me your address and I will send one your way...

-Kent

 

[Chilli]

Thanks Kent. Latter this evening I'm going to take a pic of the stuffing tube and strut to show you the bend angle. I'm on the fence whether to go wire drive or not, but I'm pretty sure it will work. Thanks for the G10 offer but Jesse on OSE is sending me a 2"x6"peice of CF plate. I did cross drill the strut myself and much to my surprise, I didnt screw it up. If you like how my motor is mounted and want mounting hole placement measurements, let me know. I'll post them after I recieve my cooling jacket. I just want to make sure I have enough clearance for the can. But then again, your a rigger veteran so you probably can handle it. Drilling that first mounting hole on the tub was very unnerving for me, but I nailed it.

 

[twox45]

Your 21FE is looking good. I know people are asking about CG but as we designed the 12, 21, 45, and 90 boats we concentrated on a 60/40 (plus or minus 5%) weight ratio and never worried about the CG. That ratio works really well with the nitro boats. I bought all the UL-1 stuff with a 5000mah pack but haven't had the time to put it in the boat . Looking forward to seeing more of your build.

 

[Jim Mamaril]

Thanks Kent. Latter this evening I'm going to take a pic of the stuffing tube and strut to show you the bend angle. I'm on the fence whether to go wire drive or not, but I'm pretty sure it will work. Thanks for the G10 offer but Jesse on OSE is sending me a 2"x6"peice of CF plate. I did drill the strut holes myself and much to my surprice, I didnt screw it up. If you like how my motor is mounted and want mounting hole placement measurements, let me know. I'll post them after I recieve my cooling jacket. I just want to make sure I have enough clearance for the can. But then again, your a rigger veteran so you probably can handle it. Drilling that first mounting hole on the tub was very unnerving for me, but I nailed it.

Mike, Looks great let us know how it runs when your finished.

Jim

 

[Chilli]

Thanks gentleman. I appreciate the people on this board and other boating boards who generously share their knowledge and craftsmanship. You guys make it easy!

Enclosed are a few more pics. The first one is the right sponson with some 6-32 brass inserts installed. I dont know if all brass inserts are the same, but I used the ones made by Great Planes. These install with a slotted screw driver after drilling approprite sized holes. Screw those puppies in VERY SLOWLY or they will break on you. In the second pic, I installed a small peice of marine plywood on the rudder side of the transom. I think this will definately give more strength than the tri-stock and is probably strong enough for me to use the screws that came with the turn fin to mount the rudder. Last pic shows the finished bend of the suffing tube from Jim's strut. I believe the bend is gentle enough to use a .078 wire drive. The configurations show is for a .150 flex with no teflon. A little over a inch of 1/4" tubing is fitted snugly to the front of the strut. 7/32" tubing is then slid into the 1/4 tubing.

Thats it for now folks. Final sealing and paint are next.

 

[HOTWATER]

Thanks gentleman. I appreciate the people on this board and other boating boards who generously share their knowledge and craftsmanship. You guys make it easy!

Enclosed are a few more pics. The first one is the right sponson with some 6-32 brass inserts installed. I dont know if all brass inserts are the same, but I used the ones made by Great Planes. These install with a slotted screw driver after drilling approprite sized holes. Screw those puppies in VERY SLOWLY or they will break on you. In the second pic, I installed a small peice of marine plywood on the rudder side of the transom. I think this will definately give more strength than the tri-stock and is probably strong enough for me to use the screws that came with the turn fin to mount the rudder. Last pic shows the finished bend of the suffing tube from Jim's strut. I believe the bend is gentle enough to use a .078 wire drive. The configurations show is for a .150 flex with no teflon. A little over a inch of 1/4" tubing is fitted snugly to the front of the strut. 7/32" tubing is then slid into the 1/4 tubing.

Thats it for now folks. Final sealing and paint are next.

Cool Mike...i'm glad Jesse hooked you up! Great pics of the S tube....i'm sure some will like that shot...I do! looks like the .078 wire drive will have some potential the way the motor is mounted on your setup. Send me (or post...for enquiring minds!) the mount measurements...looks good!

-Kent

 

[chuck st romain]

another tip for the future mike. when installing the brass inserts use a screw or bolt with a washer instead of screwdriver. just bottom out a bolt and screw it in, then a sharp snap loosening the bolt and it comes right out without unscrewing the insert.

your build looks good. i didnt realize there was so much room in there. the only problem i see is that the esc wires are going to have to be pretty long if it is placed in front of the battery. that isnt a problem with the UL-1 motor but can be with other high amp/heat set-ups..

 

[longballlumber]

Can one of you guys that has an FE specific kit from Zipp Kits tell me what the outside to outside tub width is?

Thanks

Mike

 

[Chilli]

Thanks for the tip Chuck. That tub is big enough that you could lay the ESC across the top of the battery or you could lay the battery and ESC on its side together. The Turningy battery shown is wider than the hatch and has be turned sideways to go in. I have a Polyquest 30c 4500 that is narrower and just a little longer that fits easily through the hatch opening and also fits in the nose of the tub. I'll probably mount the battery as shown and put the speed controller ahead of the boom with lengthened wires. I think that will be closest to the 60/40 weight bias we're striving for.

Kent, I think the .078 wire drive would probably work, but I decided the bend in the stuffing tube is just a little too much for my liking. I think I'm going to stick with the .150 flex.

One reminder for those using the South River RC (Williams Racing Products) motor mount. The mount has to be put in the tub BEFORE the top deck is installed.

 

[chuck st romain]

thanks for the tip with the motor mount. i guess i am going to have to cut the top deck and instal it, then repair it prior to sealing it. i am having the kits built by david preusse and it is too late to tell him, i think they are close to done.

so are you saying that the turnigy 5000 4s wont fit? i just want to get an idea of what size batterys i will need..

 

[Chilli]

If you use the Zippkits mount, you won't have to cut the deck because it's a three piece unit. The Williams unit is one piece and there is no way to get it into the tub after installing the deck. It doesnt have to be drilled and mounted, just dropped in. The 5000 Turnigy will not fit into the nose. It will fit between the motor and boom sleeve, but you have to pivot it sideways to get it through the hatch and then spin it back 90 degrees to lay it flat on the bottom of the tub. I believe Doug Smock told me he was able to get some 5500's in there. They may have been the Hyperion G3 packs.

 

[Doug Smock]

. I believe Doug Smock told me he was able to get some 5500's in there. They may have been the Hyperion G3 packs.

Yes sir, Hyperion G3 5500 35C, sitting on top of a battery tray. B)

I don't think we'll be racing with those packs, but we didn't want to limit ourselves with the build either.

We installed stuffing tubes in a few boats tonite, I'll post a few picks of our setup this weekend if you'd like.

Your build is looking good Mike!

Doug

 

[ww29]

looking good chili.keep up the good work.

 

[Chilli]

Progress has been slow of late, but she is almost ready to hit the water. Tub is all done. I love the servo mount I bought at offshore electrics. It's light, strong, adjustable and a breeze to pull the servo out if needed. I also squeezed in a reciever switch which I mounted on the transom. I bought a used speed controller six months ago and as it turns out, it's crap. So it looks like I have to wait another week to get her in the water. I don't feel like pulling a controller out of my other boats because none of them have the BEC and I don't feel like messing with a reciever battery. I ordered a 1450 prop from Mark and will anixously await it's arrival. I had a little snag with the sponson sleeve. The solid booms that Joe sent to me are a tighter fit that the hollow tubes. I forced one in and when I tried to pull it out, ripped the sleeve out of the sponson. Lesson learned!!! The boom will fit but you must ensure there is no overspray of glue in the sleeve.

BTW- Thanks to Joe for a awesome kit and Jim for an beautiful, idiot proof strut. Also thanks to Jesse on OSE board for the carbon fibre plate, William for the Water Inlets and Robin for the prop. None of them would accept payment. You guys are alright!!!

Chilli

 

[Jud]

Very nice buildi was wondering what your ready to run weight is on your JAE?

Thanks Justin