Icharger / new Zeee batteries problem

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Now that I have solved the problem, it would be WAY more convenient if I could insert an on/switch into the circuit rather than wrestle with disconnecting the super tight battery connector. Is there even such a thing as a switch which can be inserted into a circuit which could draw 200-300A (the esc is a ZTW 200A? Thank you.
 
After further exploring on this forum, I have answered my own question about connectors. It appears that the very tight fit is normal for large 8 mm connectors. Folks indicate that the slightly smaller connectors are much easier to disconnect. Many suggest on the forum that 6.5 mm is adequate and particularly recommend NEU Connectors. I hope this helps anybody who is new like me and is reading this thread 👍
 
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Makes perfect sense,,,, when you said they were non sparking connectors, I was wondering " how are they doing that" ?

My next question to you was going to be about possible resistors or capaciors connected within the wiring.

There must be a different material that is used for the first part of the contact or an internal resistor built into the plugs that allows the connection to be made with out the spark.

I remember when we did competition car stereo systems, when reconnecting the batteries, I had to use a resistor on the last cable to allow the sub woofer amp capacitors to slowly charge.

Otherwise the battery cable would sound like a shotgun blast when it made contact...
 
If you separate the 2 lead connectors and just shrink wrap them, they are way easier to remove. This will negate your spark arrestor thingy thou. You still want them tight. But you only pulling one apart at a time. I bought some of those castle green 6.5 years ago for a scooter project. Those were a bitch to get apart. I have since taken those out of the plastic holders and just use them singularly. Much better. All my race boats are done that way too.
Mike
 
Thanks Mike. But isn't the primary point of connectors to prevent accidentally connecting a positive to a negative. If I understand you correctly, you are using plugs in the same way my motor is connected to the ESC as shown in this picture. How do you avoid a potentially costly shorting error? Thank you.
 

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Well I received a great tip from a person on another forum. I put dielectric grease (very light amount) on the connectors. They still have an excellent lock but disconnect way easier. I hope this tip is useful to someone else as well 👍!
 
I use 6.5mm Castle bullets. Male bullet on battery negative and female bullet on positive lead. Shorten one battery wire so you don't get incidental contact. ESC female on negative and male on positive wires. Easy to wire two batteries in series and always check to never hook a pos to neg on battery. For batteries male negative plug I cut short pieces of large silicone water or fuel line, and slip them on for safe handling. (Diapers)
Mic
 
Hello all -
To conclude this thread, I would like to sum up:
1) the OSE 8mm anti-spark connectors are excellent well made connectors
2) make SURE you seat them fully when connecting
3) two suggestions for making the connectors easier to disconnect were excellent a) use dielectric grease OR b) tweak the male posts with needle nose pliers. Both methods work well. I tried both.
4) for myself, I favor the tweaking method but that is just personal choice

I appreciate all the input. I learned a lot and am grateful others are willing to help. Thank you !
 
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