How soon to charge race packs?

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Bill Gibson

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Mar 7, 2007
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So ive been racing FE boats for about 4 years now and ive always wondered how soon should i charge my batteries before a race? Can i charge them a week before the race, or 2 or 3 days before a race? How much of the battery do i lose from the time i charge them until i use them?? I keep them in an ammo box for storage.....!
 
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Bill,

Here is what I know.. (Its FE.. your info will vary)

You WANT to charge them AS CLOSE as you can to use. The less sitting the better. Then.. after use put them into storage voltage as soon as you can.

Mine come off the charge and go into the model and get used.

Now.. practical says that's not always doable.. BUT.. I have had battery's now for 4 years and NO performance issues. (Scale Heli Batterys) (truth is i fly them to 3.8 per cell so I dont have to put them into storage).

Grim
 
For safety sake you should always charge them right before you use them and in a controlled environment. i.e. charge and stay in the same area, don't walk away and do something else where you cannot keep an eye on them.

For best performance: Warm the cells to at minimum 80F before charging, start the charging process and continue warming the cells to 100DegF. Optimally the cells go into the boat at 100-110F. The cells will hold their voltage much better and you do much less damage to the cells.

If you must charge them before you get to the pond, warm them to 80F at home while charging and keep them above 60F in transport. At the lake warm them up to 100DegF and run them.

After you run them, let the cells cool below 90F and check their voltage. If above 3.8v/cell put them on a storage mode setting on your charger or invest in a ISDT discharger https://a.co/d/5eKAgpY . If they are between 3.7 and 3.8v/cell just check their balance cell to cell and put them away. If they are below 3.7v/cell put them back on the charger in a storage mode.
 
Bill,

Here is what I know.. (Its FE.. your info will vary)

You WANT to charge them AS CLOSE as you can to use. The less sitting the better. Then.. after use put them into storage voltage as soon as you can.

Mine come off the charge and go into the model and get used.

Now.. practical says that's not always doable.. BUT.. I have had battery's now for 4 years and NO performance issues. (Scale Heli Batterys) (truth is i fly them to 3.8 per cell so I dont have to put them into storage).

Grim
Thanks Grim! Appreciate the info!
 
For safety sake you should always charge them right before you use them and in a controlled environment. i.e. charge and stay in the same area, don't walk away and do something else where you cannot keep an eye on them.

For best performance: Warm the cells to at minimum 80F before charging, start the charging process and continue warming the cells to 100DegF. Optimally the cells go into the boat at 100-110F. The cells will hold their voltage much better and you do much less damage to the cells.

If you must charge them before you get to the pond, warm them to 80F at home while charging and keep them above 60F in transport. At the lake warm them up to 100DegF and run them.

After you run them, let the cells cool below 90F and check their voltage. If above 3.8v/cell put them on a storage mode setting on your charger or invest in a ISDT discharger https://a.co/d/5eKAgpY . If they are between 3.7 and 3.8v/cell just check their balance cell to cell and put them away. If they are below 3.7v/cell put them back on the charger in a storage mode.
Thanks Tyler! Much appreciated!!
 
Ammo cans.. I transport them in AMMO cans to keep from damaging them....this has LITTEL to do with my safety.

We did some testing years ago with different "typical" containment units..

The ammo can was the gnarlyest.. when the battery went up (we forced this) the cans cover was ejected and thrown across the parking lot about 50. It BENT THE TOP just about 45deg right in the center.. LOL.. sounded like a shot gun going off. that was with 2 1/2 inch holes drilled in the top to vent it.. LOL

The best you can do is direct the flames.. CUS your can is not going to stop the party.. it will however ADD TO IT!

BE SAFE!

Grim
 
100% agreed with what Grim mentioned on transport. I use a metal flip top toolbox lined with foam to electrically insulate from accidental grounding. I highly recommend covering both the positive and negative terminals with tight fitting caps to prevent accidental contact.
 
Ammo cans.. I transport them in AMMO cans to keep from damaging them....this has LITTEL to do with my safety.

We did some testing years ago with different "typical" containment units..

The ammo can was the gnarlyest.. when the battery went up (we forced this) the cans cover was ejected and thrown across the parking lot about 50. It BENT THE TOP just about 45deg right in the center.. LOL.. sounded like a shot gun going off. that was with 2 1/2 inch holes drilled in the top to vent it.. LOL

The best you can do is direct the flames.. CUS your can is not going to stop the party.. it will however ADD TO IT!

BE SAFE!

Grim
What would you suggest to use for a container??
 
i'm scared to even transport charged batteries at all. What if one catches fire at full charge while driving? and not just an ammo can but one with compartments made to separate each battery with plenty of space between compartments.
 
I transport and store all my lipo batteries in a fire proof bag that I place in a ammo can. Kinda like double the protection.
At-home I have a small fire proof safe that I store the batteries in when not in use.
 
I transport and store all my lipo batteries in a fire proof bag that I place in a ammo can. Kinda like double the protection.
At-home I have a small fire proof safe that I store the batteries in when not in use.
Same for me except for the larger battery's. I just place them in the can.

My EC145 (Heli) requires 6 Lipos to fly, 4 in a 8S-2P config (8000MAH).. then a RX (i do use a lipo) as well as the lighting and sound system..

PUTT PUTT SCHOOL BUS!.. LOL..
 
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