H
hugh hargett
Guest
How do carbs like the CP zoom carbs with there great atomization play into cooling the intake charge?
Spend less time thinking about it & spend more time learning how to make the necessary pieces. Do you remember the day you came to the lake with a 55 MPH boat & left with a 65 MPH boat? The propeller you used that day was your base line. If you do something to the engine to generate more HP, keeping the load the same, would the boat go faster?JIM!!!,.. you have a very good way of raising a topic, and posing it in such a way that really keeps me thinking about it.. I was trimming some plants,.. still thinking about this!!!
More importantly - what does Methanol do when atomised into air........How do carbs like the CP zoom carbs with there great atomization play into cooling the intake charge?
I doubt it Tim of course more heat is realized in a small point but 12000 watts is alot more than 100 ya know? That also may depends on the type of solder. For devils advocates sake different solders have different melting points but I know what youre saying. Will a exhaust manifold on a car with it even with more surface area melt solder ? I understand but 12000 wats still seems alot to dissapate through the material thats there in our model motors. I can apreciate Andys explanation for where the heat goes as we sometime use richness to help with detonation on our turbo cars but to a point when we boost alot and increase the pressure there a point that achohol or water come into play to kill the KNOCK. Andy are you sayint that the nitro is a fuel cooling agent? I know at the strip the higher octane fuel does helps with knock in the higher compression engines. Andy for some reason your post and these motors make me think about diesels dragsters at the track.More importantly - what does Methanol do when atomised into air........How do carbs like the CP zoom carbs with there great atomization play into cooling the intake charge?
Ever noticed how much the inlet butterflies ice up on a methanol drag car vs a fuel drag car?
The bottom of the crankcase on our IC engines get very cold while running, even if the head is hot. Which raises the next question - what if that coolness in part of the case could be utilised better via thermal transfer or other means? At what point is the case too cold for the combustion chamber to really work efficiently? A practical example - OUTBOARDS!
Interesting comparison to a soldering iron in terms of wattage. If you made the tip of a 100W iron the same size and surface area as one of our engines / headers / pipes and exposed half of it to cold atomised air/fuel mix below zero degrees C - would it still melt solder?
Hugh,not to debate but thats the point of dot orgs and scholarly journals the info is scrutinized by experts in the field (using scientific law etc.) before it put out there as the gospel wilkepedia does not. You wont write an acceptable grad paper using wilkepedia as a source you will quickly recieve an F if they even let you submit it at all use it if you choose but sooner or later you will be told something as fact on there that is wrong as the place the devil dwells.making the charge more dense needs to happen at the intake (i.e. getting more air and more fuel into the engine), then making sure you can get all the left overs out after it combusts. Problem is you can only fit so much stuff in a given volume of space.
The head can definitely be designed to give adequate heat transfer, though if I'm remembering correctly I don't beleive the calculation is necessarily simple and it requires some complex mathematics that most people don't have a clue about how to do.
As for an accurate engine efficiency, you need to consult a modern thermodynamics book that includes this material. Just because it is a .org or .gov says absolutely nothing about whether something is accurate.Hi Hugh, no. Absolutely. Hence the "finger in the air" disclaimer. It was just to illustrate the question of input vs useful output, vs waste - rather than absolute numbers. I also suspect that the right answer is probably a fairly wide range. IanIds not saying 30 percent is wrong but in the future dont ever use wilkipedia as technical reference to be safe. Its not recognized by any academic institutions as reliable. Dot org's and Dot govs or technical journals and periodicals would be more accepted as factual info.
Information is accurate if it is based on the relevant scientific laws and principles and is without errors.
Ant, Im with you does it want heat or not? The answer hasnt been made clear through all these diffrent threads that relate back to heat tranfer and such. It seems it doesnt matter as folks are going to do what they think will work regaurdless. "Ambiguity" certainly wont stop it coz the more confusing its made the less likely someone is gonna be willing to even worry about it theyll just try stuff til the boat runs faster and be satisfied not needing to know why,metallurgy,high level math, and all the other stuff it takes to clearly understand it.Its quite a confusing mess I agree 100 percent. Only eggheads will continue to unlock a eureka moment of understanding. All in all what seems to be more important to people for obvious reasons is, is it fast! There seems to be a unwillingness to try different technologies that are widely used in other forms of motorsport so Im at a lost with nitro rc boaters. A real good reason to go FE. Imagine if someone actually had the balls to try to builds a fuel injector and driver for these small motors. Seems we cant try anything new so it wont happen I guess. I based this on the non response to questions asked of the mebers of IW about water injection cold air induction and such. Gosh can we ever get outside the BOX or tunnel vision? If i could only get my hands on the equipment and had the skills that others do on here I could show how to live outside the box and I guarantee wed come up with something that makes the boats run better. OLD dogs are reluctant az hell to try new tricks. Without trying how do you know whats possible. Its Amazing to me.
Maybe you can explain to all of us, exactly how a thesis written about the characteristics of glow plug & HCCI combustion processes in a small volume at high engine speed applies to anything that has been discussed. The RPM of the glow plug engine used never exceeded 17,500 RPM & the fuel used was 10% nitro. Does any one think that the flame kernel patterns shown would be the same in an engine using 50% to 80% nitro running at 26,000 to 32,000 RPM?If you would read the paper I posted it would put all this in perspective.
Most of the fuel is not even burned because it is in the boundary layer that is to cool to support combustion.
Read and learn!
All the thermal dynamics and efficiency finding are in there for a small glow eng.
I even has pictures for you to look at as it happens,
David
Lohring,A little off topic, but these inertial dyno tests may shed some light on heat and detonation in engines of different sizes but with supposedly similar power. We did a series of Quickdraw tests on standard model boat nitro fuel. We could not get glow plugs to hold up for even one run, so we went back to standard ignition. The engine ran fine on up to 15% nitro, but melted the electrodes off the plug with 40% nitro. The electrodes dented the piston on the way out, but the engine was otherwise undamaged. There was no sign of detonation with a head button designed for gasoline.
Some years later we decided to test some 11 cc nitro engines. We immediately melted either the exhaust side or the center of the piston on 3 engines during the dyno run up. All the 26 cc gas and 11 cc nitro engines should develop between 5 and 7 hp. We have tested gas engines down to 3 hp and up to almost 12 hp with the same dyno wheel. I'm sure detonation killed the nitro engines. I bet that the nitro engines are at the edge of detonation and are under less load in model boats. A smaller wheel would load the engines less, but spin to a higher rpm. Marty Davis has done a lot of nitro engine testing with smaller dyno wheels, so he may have some answers.
The gas engines develop more torque since their peak power happens at a lower rpm. However, torque is a measure of the amount of work done while power is a measure of how fast that work is done. You can always find the torque by dividing the power by 5252 and multiplying by the rpm at that power. You can increase the torque supplied with gearing, but the work won't get done any faster. That takes more power.
Lohring Miller
Loh, whats your unit of power in this EQ to find torque? I need to keep this in my notes.
As far as I know I will be around at that time.. I have a place where we can run..
Ant, I have an interview up in charlotte on the 15th of this month. Ill pm you and see if we can go out there and run. The beautiful pond that I was running at because of a jet ski supposedly has stirred up algae so no one is allowed anything there now but fishing. None of my boats have touched water in months . JIm Allen if youre around I might need to drop in on you too if you will be around.My twin jae is ready for prime but it wont likely make it in the water by the 15th. I havent recieved my turn fin yet. All I have to run is a 40 mono a sport 40 and the 1/8th scale which should be ready for a dip if I go on and tie up some minor loose ends.
Hugh
Experience counts for much in this game I've learned, just another "getting to be an old farts opinion". :lol:Nitro engines........I like the touch and look method of getting the right engine temperature. If the fingers can stay on the engine for more than 3 seconds the engine is too cold. If you can't touch it for more that a split second it is too hot. If the plug is dull when the temp is right a dull plug is too lean a shiny plug is rich and a slightly dull plug is just right. If the plug is mangled the load is too great or the compression too much. Would rather up the exhaust timing and keep the low head clearance. Adjust nitro content according to piston diameter and oil content to type of rod bearing/bushing. AND IT ALL depends on the boat the engine is in. So the lake dyno is different for each setup. Did the land/shop dyno for years but the lake dyno works better for actual racing conditions. Not to say playing with the dyno is a bad thing, because you can learn some good things, but it does not tell the practical side of the ever changing load on the model boat on a race course. Just an old farts opinion.
Ok, no one biting on this one, so I will try to add a little for thought. A car race team has a dyno and sets up an engine that will go in a known vehicle. The pavement does not wrap around the car when at rest. Things are pretty consistent from start to wide open as far as where the engine hits the road. A model boat is not consistent. Every boat is different. Every type of boat is different, and everyone sets them up different. Water conditions change where pavement is pretty flat most of the time. Point is.........an engine that performs great on the dyno may never get to the RPM thet it did on the dyno because of the boat, prop, or water conditions. Not to mention a lean setting because the prop is a bit slightly too large or the temperature on that day is in the 90s and the dyno test was done at 75 degrees so you lose 8 percent of your power because of temperature of incoming air density to the engine. I could go on and on with this. Take a mono........you set it up on a calm day. Water like glass. The engine runs hot because the boat is totally wet. You reset the trim to air the boat out and then you go to a race and the water is rough as there are 6 boats out there. Now the boat blows off the water. How should you have set up that boat. It is an ever changing lake dyno, so you need to set the engine for the boat and water conditions you will be racing in. Nitro engines have many variables that are affected by the boat setup, water conditions, and air density. Those variables cannot be duplicated with the dyno unless you do a ton of empirical testing and apply it to the load characteristics of a dyno. I don't think anyone could live long enough to accomplish that feat.When just talking "engines" the boat plays no part. Thats the point of the dyno. When youre talking a race boat - thats a vehicle with an engine in it. The dyno is for testing the motor and its output limits and such not how it runs in the boat. Thats the point that some have been trying to make. Like real motorsport teams they design what they think will be a good motor test it on a dyno then put it in the vehicle and get the vehicle to perform around the good motor that was dyno proven for an increase in performace. In any type of real motorsport a dyno is a valued and used piece of equipment. If you notice most top level engine builders at least down here in nascar country have a dyno in house. If you had a "dyno queen" and it didnt run good in the vehicle id check the vehicle not the motor. I dont think anyone in the persuit of a good motor would be upset if they ended up with a "dyno queen" whatever that is...... if its a motor that kicked back great hp and torque numbers and could turn k's with minimal vibration id be excited to put it in my vehicle boat or whatever. I believe either its a good strong motor or it aint especially with a direct drive. If it aint it aint gonna run good in the boat if it is then it will but the boat might limit how fast that motor can make it go.
Another link to this topic: http://www.jrcbd.com...ead.php?t=65871
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