Gas Scale hydro builds

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I have the cowling mold done for the 82U55. If you want a part send a email to me subject "gas cowl"

I can make a list of those that need one.
 
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Sweet big DADDY just put mine and Carls in the same box
OK thanks, the cowl looks nice all the cutouts for the intake scoop and header are there and those vent holes on the back of the cowl. You will cut out the drivers area and make a sub floor to sit the driver on.

I found a 1/6th size driver that is bigger than the one I had in the boat last year.

Driver is $55.00 shipping $5.00 [email protected]
 
Hey I see that some of the gas scale 83U55 kits are being built. I have started on my new one and will post some pictures and updates.

I built one of the first kits and made mods so the Zenoah would fit. This new kit is better suited to the Zenoah engine.

First thing to do is glue the 1/8th transom pieces together to make it 1/4.

Same for the # 5 frames they are two 1/8th glued together. Notice there is a left and a right and they are marked F and B (front and back).

You can make a flat building board the width of the sponson keels. Dry fit all the framework together on the building board to see how this boat will look. M L makes the notches fit nice so it will stay together even with no glue.

I will add some pictures to a album.

Add your building comments and pictures here too.
Hi Phil ,as i have just about finished my 73 budweiser gas scale hydro,i thought it was about time i started my next build ,which will be another gas scale copy of a 1974 Australian unlimited boat called Solo.Looking at my Newton plan i can see the hull bottom break line is forward of the sponson transom which i think might work better than my 73 Budweiser which traps a lot of air.The boat had a short picklefork and was 29 footx12 with a six foot four wide tunnel and a 15 foot afterplane,it also didnt have a full length non trip area behind the sponsons, but a short section cut under like the old shovels. i like to stick to the scale dimensions but was wondering if you think i should make any adjustments to the width etc.? I hope you can offer some advice,Thanks Scott.solo off to the states.jpg

Stampede.jpg
 
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Scott you building it 20% over 1/8th scale? I would guess 12-13 inch wide tunnel would work. Go to the MHR on the gas scale site for the size tolerance, If it has a Newton plan you should be able to find one like it.
 
I think the dash line is the bottom line to follow. The engine well part looks like he meant to have the deeper belly pan all the way across the 6 inches. I am cutting this off but making a gentle curved line up to the front. I will add a belly pan under the motor.

That's what Mike and I were thinking.
Why don't you guys build it like Mike intended it to be done. That area you're talking about changing happened for a reason and I'll leave it at that....................
 
Hey I see that some of the gas scale 83U55 kits are being built. I have started on my new one and will post some pictures and updates.

I built one of the first kits and made mods so the Zenoah would fit. This new kit is better suited to the Zenoah engine.

First thing to do is glue the 1/8th transom pieces together to make it 1/4.

Same for the # 5 frames they are two 1/8th glued together. Notice there is a left and a right and they are marked F and B (front and back).

You can make a flat building board the width of the sponson keels. Dry fit all the framework together on the building board to see how this boat will look. M L makes the notches fit nice so it will stay together even with no glue.

I will add some pictures to a album.

Add your building comments and pictures here too.
Hi Phil ,as i have just about finished my 73 budweiser gas scale hydro,i thought it was about time i started my next build ,which will be another gas scale copy of a 1974 Australian unlimited boat called Solo.Looking at my Newton plan i can see the hull bottom break line is forward of the sponson transom which i think might work better than my 73 Budweiser which traps a lot of air.The boat had a short picklefork and was 29 footx12 with a six foot four wide tunnel and a 15 foot afterplane,it also didnt have a full length non trip area behind the sponsons, but a short section cut under like the old shovels. i like to stick to the scale dimensions but was wondering if you think i should make any adjustments to the width etc.? I hope you can offer some advice,Thanks Scott.
build it as you see it scott even if you do a smallish non trip i dont think it would bother it much at all.
 
I think the dash line is the bottom line to follow. The engine well part looks like he meant to have the deeper belly pan all the way across the 6 inches. I am cutting this off but making a gentle curved line up to the front. I will add a belly pan under the motor.

That's what Mike and I were thinking.
Why don't you guys build it like Mike intended it to be done. That area you're talking about changing happened for a reason and I'll leave it at that....................

SO What is the deal with that part. You can give a clue or we just can guess.
 
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I have decided to leave the belly on mine to choke some air off. This way maybe we can learn if one way works better. I hope to get my wood for the bottom soon,then it wont take long to skin the rest....... YO Philly is the glue drying on this cowls!!!! Har har har as Bob says
 
8255 gas scale builders,

please explain how you will be installing the driveline in the offset engine well. in other words, will the strut be on the hull centerline and the driveline tube offset back to center ?

thank you
 
I have decided to leave the belly on mine to choke some air off. This way maybe we can learn if one way works better. I hope to get my wood for the bottom soon,then it wont take long to skin the rest....... YO Philly is the glue drying on this cowls!!!! Har har har as Bob says
Yea I am watching glue dry now, just made a part today. I will trial fit it to the frame I have so I can mark a deck line in the mold.

I will send some plastic to you guys to make the windshield,

Stuff i have is .040, I will trace the pattern on it, you can cut it out. I get it from SIG Mfg, same stuff i use for the turbine boats, is thick enough so the roostertails wont break it.
 
8255 gas scale builders,

please explain how you will be installing the driveline in the offset engine well. in other words, will the strut be on the hull centerline and the driveline tube offset back to center ?

thank you
I always just use the center of the engine well so no extra bends in the shaft tube is needed.
 
8255 gas scale builders,

please explain how you will be installing the driveline in the offset engine well. in other words, will the strut be on the hull centerline and the driveline tube offset back to center ?

thank you
I always just use the center of the engine well so no extra bends in the shaft tube is needed.

curious, how far is the strut from the hull centerline ? ( i have not started building my 8255 kit yet )
 
Looking at the frames id say 1 1/2. After trying to stuff a zenoah in the skeleton I wish the frames on the side were the same size on the left as right. That would have made a Zenoah a easy install. Learn as we go
 
Looking at the frames id say 1 1/2. After trying to stuff a zenoah in the skeleton I wish the frames on the side were the same size on the left as right. That would have made a Zenoah a easy install. Learn as we go
THe Zenoah should fit ok. You can plan on making a small hatch on the right, over the carb. That give a bit more clearance and you can get a finger in there to choke it. The header and carb should fit under the deck line.
 
8255 gas scale builders,

please explain how you will be installing the driveline in the offset engine well. in other words, will the strut be on the hull centerline and the driveline tube offset back to center ?

thank you
Always put the prop in the center of the tunnel. S bend the stuffing tube to meet the engine.
 
"..........Har har har as Bob says.

After trying to stuff a zenoah in the skeleton I wish the frames on the side were the same size on the left as right. That would have made a Zenoah a easy install. Learn as we go"

Hey Mike,

That's not what I say when trying to get the Zenoah in and out my CT. More words that would run an old sailor out of the building. Whatever engine I end up putting into a Gas Scale will be able to be removed from the top with allen head screws holding it in place. Trying to install/remove the Zen in my CT, only being able to get 1/8th of a turn on the 5/16 hex head bolts is only going to happen with me this one time. Same applies to the side exhaust headers and no leak flanges - - *^%$#@!+(*&^%$#!!!!! Guess I've been spoiled removing 67s with four allen head screws for too long.

Let the epoxy fly Mikey - I want to see some more of these "Birch ply Overcast" Beasties in the water. It's all Good !!! Har, Har !!!! CHEERS !!! Bob
 
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