Fuel Proof Paint...

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So I guess my answer is to continue with West systems to through out the hull and sponsons... :unsure:
I'm on the fence about that too. The good thing about my other JAE build is that I will not have to worry about making it fuel proof...it's an FE... ;)

-Kent
 
Ok....How about using SprayMax 2K Urethane (it is a 2 part system) over West Systems finishing resin?

-Kent
that stuff should work for you....I was at my local hobby shop and there is a fuel proof spray can clear..its made for model planes cant remember the name of that stuff,but there is spray can clears that is fuel proof... :eek: I can cars for aliving so I just use automotive paints on my boats...I love the high gloss finishes it gives on my boats...
 
That's probably Top Flite's LustreKote paint. Was it in a mostly white labeled can?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCZW5&P=ML
Ron,

I have some of the colors in LusterKote that I plan to use at some point, but what I want to know is can I use the clear on the outside? meaning ...Just clear on wood with no epoxy? I have used west on the radio and engine compartment already... and for the sponsons I want to clear or epoxy then paint white then color coat? too much paint or not enough protection? I plan to let the paint gas off for a month at least befor it hits water so it should be good to go right?
 
i used the minwax indoor/outdoor helmsman clear urithane (green spray can) over fiberglass hawaii 4:1 multi purpose epoxy resin with no problem. i have spilt fuel many times (i even sprayed the fuel tank area interior) and reguardless of what these guys say, it is fuel proof. if you would like i can send pictures of my jae after about 2 gallons of fuel run through it. there is no wrinkle or any signs of the 55% byrons nitro atacking it. easy, cheap and effictive for me. i applied stickers, sprayed 3 light fog coats as not to wrinkle the stickers and one wet heavy coat at the end. i am not a painter (well i was 20 years ago but i no longer have the equipment or a place to spray) and this was the easiest most efficient way i had read about to do the job. dont get me wrong the ways mentioned above are much better, but for me this process worked. i am building 3 riggers right now (21g, 21fe and another 12g) and will probablly pay someone to shoot color and clear because i want color, but if i decide a natural finish is what i want, i wont hesitate to use this minwax.
 
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I don't see why not but I'm not a paint expert in here.

I've been using LustreKote for many years. It seems to get more fuelproof the longer that it sets. The box that my nitro fuel can sits on is wood and has taken a lot of fuel spills with up to 65% without bothering it. My Wild Thing .12 is just sprayed on LustreKote clear gloss and it's held up for a long time.
 
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I have a question.Has anyone used the now discontinued 4 n 1 epoxy pait.I was a distributor for this product so i have tons of cans left and was cuorious of using this on my hull.( it was discountinued do to envriomental reasons. Its main purpose was for use in salt water on wood pilings and steel markers and bouys).
 
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I have a question.Has anyone used the now discontinued 4 n 1 epoxy pait.I was a distributor for this product so i have tons of cans left and was cuorious of using this on my hull.( it was discountinued do to envriomental reasons. Its main purpose was for use in salt water on wood pilings and steel markers and bouys).
depends on how old the stuff is??.. I got aeromarine 2-1 epoxy and the date to be used up is aug of 09..Used it on parts of my eagel build..they say it a 30 cure time?? But it sets up at 3 hours...the older the stuff is the longer it will dry/cure on you...Man 4-1 is like my auto clear and paint ratio..Thinking that might have a longer cure time..I like to 1-1 ratio my self..I dont trust using any min wax on any of my stuff. unless it for non R/C wood stuff..
 
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i am curious why on the wood builds like the jae riggers people aren't using pigment in the epoxy they are sealing it with. i just sealed the sponsons on the firefighter 12 i am building and i added pigment to the resin before sealing it. it isnt cured yet but seemed to cover pretty good with a light coat. after it kicks i will sand them and apply a 2nd coat like i always do and see how it goes. i realize this only works with a solid color but when i was in fiberglass hawaii i saw the stuff and figured i would give it a try. after sanding i will spray a thinned final coat and it should be good to go...
 
Pictures please chuck .we would like to see the end results.Colored epoxy may be another option.
 
i will post some when its done. i was bussy working on a tunnel hull today so i didnt even get to 2nd coating them. still need to block sand and apply 2nd coat.

Pictures please chuck .we would like to see the end results.Colored epoxy may be another option.
 
I don't see why not but I'm not a paint expert in here.

I've been using LustreKote for many years. It seems to get more fuelproof the longer that it sets. The box that my nitro fuel can sits on is wood and has taken a lot of fuel spills with up to 65% without bothering it. My Wild Thing .12 is just sprayed on LustreKote clear gloss and it's held up for a long time.
I'm curious about Lustercote's clear. Its an acyrlic laquer, the same as my Dupli-color paint I use.

If lustercoat is fuelproof, then I would assume that Dupi-color's acyrlic laquer spray paint is also fuelproof, since they are both acyric laquer. The Min Wax spar urethane (not the polyurethane) I believe is also fuel proof.

My mini Dumas Atlas U-71 was shot down w/Dupli-color acrylic laquer & then finished with dupi-color's laquer clear top coat. I had to use the entire small can of clear cause each coat dried so thin, I had to use about 5-6 coats.
 
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