Fuel Proof Paint...

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HOTWATER

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2008
Messages
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Just wanted to know what brand of fuel proof spray paint (rattle cans) is working the best for you guys? I have heard that certain colors of Rustoleum are good (like High Gloss Black and White)...any other thoughts?

-Kent
 
Kent if your going to use it on a nitro boat id consider Klass Kote You can almost brush it on. If you want to spray it and dont have the equipmqent go to your local auto paint store and buy a couple preval sprayers . One thing you might could do is just buy clear and paint with rustolem then clear it all with Klass Kote
 
Kent if your going to use it on a nitro boat id consider Klass Kote You can almost brush it on. If you want to spray it and dont have the equipmqent go to your local auto paint store and buy a couple preval sprayers . One thing you might could do is just buy clear and paint with rustolem then clear it all with Klass Kote
Thanks! Where can Klass Kote be bought?

-Kent
 
class kote works great.. been using it for quite some time.

shoots nice. it is real similar to k&b superpoxy or hobby poxy which was the preferred stuff yrs ago.

they will even mix special colors for you..

chris
 
i used the minwax pollyurathaine spray can from home depot over almost any paint and it worked out well.... it is super thin so many coats are necessary. i have only tried it one time with paint and once on my jae rigger over epoxy resin. no problems with the fuel. i got this tip in a forum here. this stuff is super easy to get a good clear finish.
 
i used the minwax pollyurathaine spray can from home depot over almost any paint and it worked out well.... it is super thin so many coats are necessary. i have only tried it one time with paint and once on my jae rigger over epoxy resin. no problems with the fuel. i got this tip in a forum here. this stuff is super easy to get a good clear finish.
So you said you could use this over finshing epoxy? and other paints? Hummmm :rolleyes:
 
I actually use the Polyurethane to seal the outside of the hull and sponsons. Two coats sanded down produce a beautiful paintable surface with very little weight added (A lot less than building up the imperfections with primer). Once I prime, I mostly use Tamiya paints followed by PPG automotive clear polished to a mirror shine. I then flatten out the clear and spray the inside (epoxy sealed)with the PPG for added fuelproofing. Auto clear is very tough.

JayP
 
I've used Top-Flite's Lustre-Kote paints with OK results. The can says that it can only take so much nitro but it seems to be more fuelproof the longer it cures. It doesn't quite have that depth of shine that many people like though. They're not offering it in the big selection of colors that they used to. After sealing the boat (I'm assuming that you're painting your JAE .12) with epoxy I sprayed on a primer coat of their white, not their primer white as that stuff is a bear to sand then if you like it white, clear-coat it or do your color spray.

My favorite was Midwest/Pactra's Formula-U which they quit making. The paint was easy to lay on and hard to take off plus had a nice shine.

The Min-Wax spray sounds great as it should be easy to find.

I've also tried the Tamiya and Pactra paints, a very good selection of colors then clear-coated them.
 
class kote works great.. been using it for quite some time.

shoots nice. it is real similar to k&b superpoxy or hobby poxy which was the preferred stuff yrs ago.

they will even mix special colors for you..

chris
Chris:

Does this work with high nitro fuel. Have you ever had a problem with nitro attacking it?

Also, do you know anything about their yellow? Do you need a base coat of white to make it cover well?
 
hey marty,

not it will not get attacked by high nitro.. been running it for yrs.

the only time you need a WHITE base coat is if you use neon colors. There colors are such you can use the gray primer and shoot your color.

works great i think you will be happy once use it.

chris
 
I really like the automotive stuff, mainly PPG 2021 clear. That way you have endless colors to choose from as your base. And the clear never yellows and is "strong like bull". Plus i think you can even get it in cans.

Andrew Grenier
 
top flite lustre coat clear spray bombs have worked well for me. they say it is only fuel proof to 25% nitro, but like ron says, the longer you let it cure, the more fuel proof it becomes. i have used it on boats up to 60%, with no issues, after about 2 weeks cure time. it is a lacquer based product, & works best over lacquer. i use tamiya lacquer spray bombs under it. gloss is ok, light wet sanding & polishing will make it sparkle! no yellowing yet, after 2 years of using it. inexpensive & readily available at most hobby shops that cater to the airplane crowd.
 
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I bought some of this paint being lazy and hating to paint. I must say if it holds up to nitro its a whole new way to paint. Give it a try sometime,we used testors laquer for a base and this to clear it turned out GREAT
dont care for klasic coat paint.. not many color to chose from and no metalic...Thats why I use automotive urethanes paints...like Duponts NASON,NAPA's CROSSFIRE,PPG SHOPLINE..These are there buget lines paint systems..There just as great as the top line,but without hurting you in the walet......Using epoxy resin over paints?? got a proublem with that.. Epoxy will yellow in time,but coating inside is good because your not going to see it......minwax clear?? We had a guy do expairment with that one on RCU and fuel lift that too...clear coating rustollem?? Bad choice,the clear will lift the rustollem rightup...You cant clear over oil base paints with a non oil base paint..It's like spraying lacqure over enamels..Hot paints will lift cold paints....You need to use paints that have hardners/actavators in them or otherwise nitro/fuels will lift paints........been paint cars for aliving,,been around to know what to do and what not to do with paints..
 
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Since we are talking about painting and clear coats, I would like to get your methodolgy and what materials you use to POLISH the clear coat. I use PPG single stage paint with PPG clear. PPG single stage painted on an epoxy sealed motor compartment and tank area followed with PPG clear is the ONLY thing I have found that will stand up to 60-65% nitro. I have filled the tank area with fuel, inadvertantly, and not lifted the paint.DOC
 
Since we are talking about painting and clear coats, I would like to get your methodolgy and what materials you use to POLISH the clear coat. I use PPG single stage paint with PPG clear. PPG single stage painted on an epoxy sealed motor compartment and tank area followed with PPG clear is the ONLY thing I have found that will stand up to 60-65% nitro. I have filled the tank area with fuel, inadvertantly, and not lifted the paint.DOC
You must paint like my boyfriend does with single stage paints.. He would spray 3 coats of colors then two coats with 1/2&1/2 clear&color..somtmes last coat with 3/4 clear 1/4 color...I havent used single stage that much,maybe shoot it three times..We wet sand with 1500 use 3M micro finsh compound then use 3M fennessing compund and 3m machines glaze it..but at time just mico finish and machineglaze your finish...Joe likes PPG shopline paint system...I liked NAPA's Crossfire system...But I'm starting to like Shopline too. :)
 
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