Flex Cable Tube Question

[HOTWATER]

I decided to not run a stuffing box since this rigger will have a center ski that will protect the flex cable tube from damage and the fact that Tom has gone 7 years without his tubes wearing out.

But to be clear. The picture above is not an S-bend setup. On my rigger, if the S-bend stuffing box tube was to run close to the engine collet it would need to be a little over 6 inches long. I think this would be the case for any S-bend setup. On a S-bend setup, the engine is mounted level to the tub.

Thanks for all the info. I wish I had access to this info 25 years ago when I started playing with RC boats. As I look back, I had many failures because I did not have the right answers. One was a Quickie 40 rigger that my brother and I just couldn't get up on plane.

Ah...you were talking about the JAE rigger...that makes a difference. Just epoxy/ glass the 1/4" tube in place...no second tube. Tom is right though...on that setup with the "ski" involved, you will just have to rebuild if you have wrecked the ski / tube in a crash.

-Kent

 

[Bill Gibson]

Craig;

When running your shaft, it is done in 2 different diameter pieces of brass.

Lets start with nomenclature,

First is the shaft log, on a 3/16" shaft setup I believe the shaft log brass tube is 1/4", it will run from about 1/4" aft of your shaft collet on the engine, all the way back to, and through the strut. Yhis is the piece you will put your bend into, to line up you shaft angle with your "S" bend.

Now is the stuffing box, it is one size larger than the shaft log, I believe the size if 11/32" not sure at all on this one. I alwayshave to test for the fit, cause I can never remember the sizes.

Now it is placed just aft of were the shaft log stopped at the engine end. IE: you will have about 1/4" of the shaft log, 1/4" brass tube sticking out the front of the stuffing box.

The stuffing box is epoxied, glued, glassed in place. you will trim the excess off of were it comes through the bottom of the hull, now you 1/4" piece will slide up through the stuffing box. you can solder the 2 pieces together at the engine end of the shaft set up, to keep everything in place.

Now the reason for doing it this way, is if you hit something, in the water, or onother boat, and bend, or crush the shaft log, you can un-solder the front end, slide the shaft log out, and replace it. and your engine/shaft alignment should be good to go.

Is this clear as mud to you??

What is benefits of S-bend? I always set engine by the proper angle and epoxied stuffing box alginate with the shaft. This setup is reparable and watertight. To keep shaft log in place aluminum collar, as shown on the picture. BorisView attachment 16789

Boris, that is exactly how i set my drive line up.....There are a number of racers who used S bends because they say it keeps the cable from "whipping" in the tube and there is less drag on the cable..apparently there also is a good number of racers that just dont see any difference...im one of em at least to this point...maybe i along with others have been lucky, but ive never had any issues with angling the motor and lining the stuffing box with the angle of the motor.I suppose if i were building a boat kit and the manufacturer directed me to make an Sbend in the drive tube, i would do it as i figure he would know more about the boat that he designed than i would!

 

[Boris Mazor]

Craig;

When running your shaft, it is done in 2 different diameter pieces of brass.

Lets start with nomenclature,

First is the shaft log, on a 3/16" shaft setup I believe the shaft log brass tube is 1/4", it will run from about 1/4" aft of your shaft collet on the engine, all the way back to, and through the strut. Yhis is the piece you will put your bend into, to line up you shaft angle with your "S" bend.

Now is the stuffing box, it is one size larger than the shaft log, I believe the size if 11/32" not sure at all on this one. I alwayshave to test for the fit, cause I can never remember the sizes.

Now it is placed just aft of were the shaft log stopped at the engine end. IE: you will have about 1/4" of the shaft log, 1/4" brass tube sticking out the front of the stuffing box.

The stuffing box is epoxied, glued, glassed in place. you will trim the excess off of were it comes through the bottom of the hull, now you 1/4" piece will slide up through the stuffing box. you can solder the 2 pieces together at the engine end of the shaft set up, to keep everything in place.

Now the reason for doing it this way, is if you hit something, in the water, or onother boat, and bend, or crush the shaft log, you can un-solder the front end, slide the shaft log out, and replace it. and your engine/shaft alignment should be good to go.

Is this clear as mud to you??

What is benefits of S-bend? I always set engine by the proper angle and epoxied stuffing box alginate with the shaft. This setup is reparable and watertight. To keep shaft log in place aluminum collar, as shown on the picture. BorisView attachment 16789

Boris, that is exactly how i set my drive line up.....There are a number of racers who used S bends because they say it keeps the cable from "whipping" in the tube and there is less drag on the cable..apparently there also is a good number of racers that just dont see any difference...im one of em at least to this point...maybe i along with others have been lucky, but ive never had any issues with angling the motor and lining the stuffing box with the angle of the motor.I suppose if i were building a boat kit and the manufacturer directed me to make an Sbend in the drive tube, i would do it as i figure he would know more about the boat that he designed than i would!

Would anybody get this collar? It is made from 7075 aluminum and bolt is 10x32. The collar clamps the outside tube tight to inner tube. Boris

 

[Tom Foley]

Craig;

When running your shaft, it is done in 2 different diameter pieces of brass.

Lets start with nomenclature,

First is the shaft log, on a 3/16" shaft setup I believe the shaft log brass tube is 1/4", it will run from about 1/4" aft of your shaft collet on the engine, all the way back to, and through the strut. Yhis is the piece you will put your bend into, to line up you shaft angle with your "S" bend.

Now is the stuffing box, it is one size larger than the shaft log, I believe the size if 11/32" not sure at all on this one. I alwayshave to test for the fit, cause I can never remember the sizes.

Now it is placed just aft of were the shaft log stopped at the engine end. IE: you will have about 1/4" of the shaft log, 1/4" brass tube sticking out the front of the stuffing box.

The stuffing box is epoxied, glued, glassed in place. you will trim the excess off of were it comes through the bottom of the hull, now you 1/4" piece will slide up through the stuffing box. you can solder the 2 pieces together at the engine end of the shaft set up, to keep everything in place.

Now the reason for doing it this way, is if you hit something, in the water, or onother boat, and bend, or crush the shaft log, you can un-solder the front end, slide the shaft log out, and replace it. and your engine/shaft alignment should be good to go.

Is this clear as mud to you??

What is benefits of S-bend? I always set engine by the proper angle and epoxied stuffing box alginate with the shaft. This setup is reparable and watertight. To keep shaft log in place aluminum collar, as shown on the picture. BorisView attachment 16789

Boris, that is exactly how i set my drive line up.....There are a number of racers who used S bends because they say it keeps the cable from "whipping" in the tube and there is less drag on the cable..apparently there also is a good number of racers that just dont see any difference...im one of em at least to this point...maybe i along with others have been lucky, but ive never had any issues with angling the motor and lining the stuffing box with the angle of the motor.I suppose if i were building a boat kit and the manufacturer directed me to make an Sbend in the drive tube, i would do it as i figure he would know more about the boat that he designed than i would!

Would anybody get this collar? It is made from 7075 aluminum and bolt is 10x32. The collar clamps the outside tube tight to inner tube. Boris

Try Top Secret Boats or i can make some up if you need a few .