eek

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

CySlyde

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 12, 2003
Messages
839
Ok so i finally got my boat in the water yesterday :) attached are a few pics, I had to junk my new water box i made since it won't clear the pipe :( .. it's bad enough withe the pipe like this.. the batteries are loose.

but the real proble mwas with both the new prop, and the pipe, i couldn't get it to load up right.. the boat kept acting like it wanted to get up on a plane, then right before it would it would bog down. I put the original prop back on and tried adjusting the carb, the original prop was better, but the boat still seemed to be working alot harder than it used to to get up on a plane.. I got a new prop on order which is a x637 like ron let me borrow at toledo, but the one i have now is an abs one that the hobby shop said was an equivilent. I don't mind running the original prop for now but i am not happy with the rest of the performance. how do i know it's at best tune? and where shoudl i start looking? i treid making as little length as possible between the header and the ppe, but it wont go any shorter.

attached pics :)

View attachment 1998
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I feel really bad, my bud did an awesome airbrushed vynal for the boat. It said barefoot racing and had a airbrushing of my cat shoeless, but the colors looked like crud against the yellow hull, so i took it off

View attachment 1999
 
Cyslide,

Didn't I tell you to quit playing on the furniture!! LOL :lol:

Sounds like the engine is to lean. Does it have a low end and a high end adjustment?? Back the low end setting out some. Also, it could be you have a leaky gasket or the seal on the pipe is not tight to the header, or a pinhole in the exhaust or fuel line.
 
Is it the picture or just me, but it looks like there is a lot of negative angle on the strut. Would this cause this, or atleast compound the problem?
 
Cyslide,
Didn't I tell you to quit playing on the furniture!! LOL :lol:

Sounds like the engine is to lean. Does it have a low end and a high end adjustment?? Back the low end setting out some. Also, it could be you have a leaky gasket or the seal on the pipe is not tight to the header, or a pinhole in the exhaust or fuel line.
cool i'll check those hopefully it's not a line, all that is new only the incoming waterline is origional.. as for the furniture it was either the couch or the bed.. i only have 329sq feet :( but hey it's better than jumping on it right?

"Is it the picture or just me, but it looks like there is a lot of negative angle on the strut. Would this cause this, or atleast compound the problem? "
huh? sorry, i think you mean that the propeller is pointing upwards at teh back.. it is through transom, and there is no adjustment to it.
 
Cyslide,

what type of pipe is that. Also from the photo the length of the pipe looks really long. What's the measurement from the tip of the glo-plug to the pressure-fitting on the pipe??
 
when i was on th phone with cen they were temporarly out of stock on the tuned pipes, but said a kyosho would work. so a trip to a local hobby shop rewarded me with that, it's package said something about a silencer and it's for a .15 (packaging was halfway unreadable) but it took alot of adapting to get it on thre right, so i am crossing fingers
 
Cy,

Yeah but sometimes pipes need to be shortened or lengthed to work right. Take a tape measure or a ruler and measure from the tip of the glo-plug to the pressure fitting on the pipe. This way you can get the manufactures suggested length to set your pipe up, or I'm sure Tom or Ron can give you the right length.

What happened to the orginal CEN pipe?
 
yeah BAW right now :) when i get home i will measure it. the original muffler was a three piece jobby that wouldn't stay togeather, so exhaust kept filling the engine compartment and choking out the engine :( I actually considered purchasing a car pipe and seeing how that worked since i think i could get one of those in and still be able to use the hatch cover without modification to it

forgot to mention, last night i took a few good looks, and th prop shaft is angled down slightly I don't have anything to measure angle but i would guess no more than 5 deg down from the transom
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Is that a "Hornet"?

It looks like the one somebody had at the lake and it would do the same stuff. The bottom is all radically stepped. It's almost some mix between a catamaran and a mono. I agree that to make it run properly you would have to do something about the drive line angle. i.e. add a strut.
 
sorry didn't see you post there preston, it's a cen aquajet. it's modled after teh baja boss sport boat. if i had to describe it i'd call it a semi tri hull, kinda looks like flyin rats boat.

ok well i rechecked all my fuel tubing ect... and got a new water inlet line. got out friday and it was a little warmer it ran GREAT :D so i decided to try the new prop again now that i had it running good.. got a full tank of gas through it and was pretty happy, till the exhaust coupler (is that what the silicone tube betweent he pipe and header is called?) popped off. :( put the coupler on and tossed it back in only to lose the prop about 3 minutes into the run :( called it a day and went home soaking wet cause i tipped the canoe over trying to get my boat back

put original prop on saturday and ran two tanks through it popping the exhaust coupler off once each tank, no biggy still had a big grin on my face going into work :D

Sunday the wather sucked, so i put some new zip ties and aquairum sealent on the exhaust coupler... finally got it running after the wind died down, now about a minute after it comes up and starts boggeying, either the adapter that goes into the header and connects to the coupler comes out or the pipe pops out. I think the problem lies in the angle that it has to bend. I've tried reducing the angle every way i could think of. my thought now is to shorten the header, and lengthen teh coupler. where can i get a longer coupler or the tubing to make one? or should i try to find a flexible header?

maybe i should try and get some run time in with ron before the next fun run.

Thanks for all the help guys
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Another thought would be to bend the header up a little. Just be careful not to crease the header pipe (try to make a smooth bend) the other option involves a Dremal & your decking at the transom :blink:
 
Mike, I'm planning on getting some boats out Saturday, weather permitting. Right now Channel 3 news is talking 65 with light rain but you know how that Station is!
 
wswatzell said:
Another thought would be to bend the header up a little. Just be careful not to crease the header pipe (try to make a smooth bend) the other option involves a Dremal & your decking at the transom :blink:
i considerd that.. teh header is cast in the same metal the engine is made from so i don't think it's going to be easy to bend. decking the boat is the last resort at this point.. i'd need to cut away half the radio box to make it work

cool ron, i'll see if if i can get down, what lake are you going ot?
 
Take a file our 60 grit sandpaper and rough the surface off the header and pipe where the coupler makes contact. Use your zip ties and you should be fine. The angle should not be a major problem. You can put a piece of fuel tubing behind the prop nut to help eliminate the chance of loosing the prop.
 
You got to go to the more heavy duty couplinging. Aerotrend makes this dark blue stuff that is pretty heat resistant compared too most brands. Some guys wrap cut out aluminum from a coke can over them so if they blow you can still keep running.

Or take some aluminum tubing and wrap it around the header so you can hook the water lines into it thus making it water cooled.
 
I don't think the problem was with the coupler failing, just that is was sliding off. Personally I tried to save money with the aerotrend and it would never hold up like the prather.
 
i considerd that.. teh header is cast in the same metal the engine is made from so i don't think it's going to be easy to bend.
you could always an after market headder that you could bend. just a thought.

I wish I could join you guys this weekend, but i still have too much junk to do at my new house :angry: I just hope i can get the stuff to get my hh12 done, & Missy's Wild Thing done before June.
 
Mike,

If your pipe keeps comming out of the silicone adapter, I would get a couple of them, and throw the one you got away, and clean the pipe and header with parts cleaner( brake cleaner) to get all the oil off, start with a new adapter and set your pipe and nylon tie it, or even hose clamp it. That rubber peice has to be oil free, or it will just keep comming off. the oil in the nitro gets in there and will not stay, has to be free of oil on pipe, and header.

Take some 400 grit and roughen it up some as well.

With as many times as the pipes came off, i would cut back the pressure hose from exhaust, as could be damage or a pinhole.

Go to hardware store, get a nylon lock nut for your prop shaft, hell get 2 there cheep, that and fuel tubing you shouldnt ever loose a prop.

Tom
 

Latest posts

Back
Top