Easy steps to a 70+ mph .21 hydro

[Preston_Hall]

I said something a while back about a 70+mph 21 being as easy as 1,2,3. Somebody asked where the instructions were. Well.............

1) Get a Hummingbird. In the engine compartment you can see how nicely everything is assembled. The radio box isn't too shabby either. The stuffing tube looks extremely well. Even the under side.

2) Install servo mounts as seen in the engine compartment. The steering servo mount and it's components are very simple but efficient.

3) Install you hardware. I like to use 6-32 threaded brass inserts on the transom. There are 3 options for motor mounts. Use the stock mount, buy a mount to fit the stock holes (from yours truely), or have the tub drilled for a Speedmaster mount and buy a modified Speedmaster mount to fit (from yours truely).

4) Might as well get your new Novarossi off to Orlic for modification while we do the rest.

 

[1BS]

or just go to ebay- theres plenty of them on there

 

[user 115]

Preston,

Have you run it yet? Does Jim provide a setup sheet?

Charley

 

[izitbrokeyet?]

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[tracerbob]

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[user 115]

Where are you guys getting yours from?

 

[Preston_Hall]

or just go to ebay- theres plenty of them on there 

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Your choice. But at the end of this thread will be a picture of a radar gun.

Charlie,

You will be seeing it as I build. I will go out on a limb and say that this will be the best setup sheet ever offered. Building will be slow for now with my trip coming up but after that, look out. Read the descriptions below the posts since all the info may not be here. Remember, there won't be any secrets, I would only like to sell a few boats for Jim, and the most important thing is to get you a 70+mph hydro.

Jim provides a setup sheet but I have not seen it. Do what I have been taught and you can do it too. Contact Jim Benns at Hummingbird Hydros 757-421-9164.

Step (5).

Go ahead and get a 1450 prop cut to 46mm diameter with 3.4" pitch. You can pitch up from there but that should work. 3.3" to 3.8" have all seemed to work well with only changes in handling being the biggest difference. I run 3.6".

 

(6) Get a pipe. Irwin "S" being top choice. Bulifant looked good with the CMD pipe. OPS 3280 should work as well.

Pipe lengths..............in general you will always run a pipe as short as you can. We measure from the plug to the weld or seem. 3 3/4" should be a good starting point. Don't worry about a ruler. If it won't launch or come up then you lengthen the pipe.

 

[Tim Kish]

Don't forget to reinforce the bottom of the tub

to the sides because they are not joined together with all that fancy carbon fibre.

I learned the hard way when my 60 hummingbird separated from the transom up

to the engine compartment.

A quick visit to Mr Orlic's house and all was good again.

Tim K

 

[izitbrokeyet?]

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[Tim Kish]

If you have a problem with separation (joint weakness) I'd suggest you put the drain holes in the engine compartment and fuel compartment to keep the tub from becoming a TUB.  I suppose this applies to any rigger
I could use my tub for batting practice

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I did that long before the boat ever hit the water.

If you want the tub to be really strong join the bottom to the sides with light cloth

and epoxy , thats what I had to do.

It was either that or add drain holes to my radio box. :blink:

Tim K

 

[Don Ferrette]

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[Chris Wood]

hey preston,

is that a aluminum stuffing tube... if so how do they hold up

chris

 

[user 115]

Anybody have a H2 20 Hummingbird for sale?

 

[izitbrokeyet?]

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[Tim Kish]

One of the first things I learned when building a rigger was to reinforce the tub , particularly around the engine compartment .

I was fooled by all the carbon and didn't realize that the bottom and sides were not joined.

Oh well live and learn and then learn some more.

Tim K

P.S. Changed the mount along time bbefore this happened

 

[Don Ferrette]

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[Tim Kish]

Great response Tim 
I'm sure you hit something if that boat had a seam/joint failure

Structurally, the CF tub is extremely rigid compared to any other tub that I know of (save a tub machined from one ingot of Ti).   So rigid, that like any system a failure will find the "weak link"….  .the weak link in a CF panel system like this will be the joints.  But this joint is the same strength as any other rigger out there,  since it is the same configuration with the same chemical weld (epoxy joint).   The only way to make a stronger system from the factory would be to make a tub of monocoque (sp?) (one piece without glue joints).

I have no proof,but I would bet that a monocoque tub would have more drag due to the rounded surfaces exposed to spray.....just a thought

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Kevin

This happened at the very first race I entered with the boat.

It was also the boats first time on the water.

Like I said earlier now that I have joined the bottom to the sides with a little cloth

and epoxy it has been bullet proof.

I would aslo like to add that eventually everyone hits something so the extra strength gained is only a good thing .

I would also like to say that I am in know way unhappy with this boat as

it is an awsome performer , but just save yourself the head ache and lay some cloth in it before it gets soaked with fuel and oil because it is a pain in the A$$ to do after.

Tim K

 

[Joe_Knesek]

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[Don Ferrette]

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[RIGGERMORTISE]

QUOTE KB

factory would be to make a tub of monocoque (sp?) (one piece without glue joints"

corner radius from a 3k weave sock would be very small, possibly blowing the sock out into a female two piece mould would have the corners as sharp as the mould and one piece construction. Only leaving the nose and transon open to get the bag inside.

HMMM got me thinking now KB B) FF21 tub from carbon sock, sponsons from carbon sock, carbon hardware, carbon pipe, carbon mounts where do i stop!!!

Preston

keep us informed im reading every word