Dumas 36 in atlas van lines

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Just had to do this... Didnt realize you guys were talkin about the 40 size U76 Atlas! (PaynPak!) Built it 2 years ago...have yet to run it.
Aw Man ...lets go out and thrash that thing ..wing broken off etc !!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: Looks perfect as usual !
Hey! Its Tom "TWO TWIN RIGGERS GO TWICE AS FAST" Foley! :D Thanks for the compliment and about the wing.....Its TRUE.......so very, very, TRUE! (probably why i havent run it yet...im skeered!)
 
Oh WOW! That thing is sharp!!

Thanks Duane...I hope you have fun building yours... keep shootin pics as you go! Mine is basically a stock build, but i did shallow up the sponson depth a little...Its just my opinion, but That hull is one of the most beautiful unlimited hydroplanes ever made...SUPER clean lines...Im building an 1/8th scale version also. Enjoy your build! Bill
 
boat_mod.JPGHydro is this what your talking about? Im still unclear on what you mean on the lower sponsons if this is not correct could you please outline for me in blue and re post if you have time? Thanks for all your help. Duane
 
Thanks bill, Im tryin. I think it would have been easier if i had built it the first time. I think im trying to shallow up the sponsons a lil. I believe thats what HydroJunkie is talking about but its hard to understand over the net without someone here pointing it out in front of me. Maybe the last pics will help. I hate to hack in the wrong places.
 
You're getting warm. On the bottom of the sponsons, you outlined the ride pads. Those will come off, but you also need to take the piece they are glued to. Take that whole piece off and it will give you access to the inside of the sponson. Don't take any of the sponson side panels, they need to be left in tact, including the "ramp" you asked about. You got the other area of the bottom right, as that will give you access to the rest of the boat. Be very careful working around the side panels of the sponsons and the rear area of the boat as these do not need to be removed and any damage you do to them now will have to be repaired later
 
Ok Hydro I think I understand now but before I go hacking I'm gonna take some pictures of the bottom of my hull and try to photo shop some dashed lines where I think your talking about so I know we are on the same page if you don't mind.
Just curious, is that the Dumas 1312 or 1314? I was wondering whether that boat is 1/10th or 1/8th scale?

Either way, nice boat.
 
Ok Hydro I think I understand now but before I go hacking I'm gonna take some pictures of the bottom of my hull and try to photo shop some dashed lines where I think your talking about so I know we are on the same page if you don't mind.
Just curious, is that the Dumas 1312 or 1314? I was wondering whether that boat is 1/10th or 1/8th scale?

Either way, nice boat.
Dumas made a 20, 40, and 60 size PaynPak(or Atlas) hull... the one in the picture is the 40 boat...I Also have the 20 size boat... it was the 2nd model boat i ever built... its 28 years old! Im now building the 60 size hull...Im pretty crazy about that particular Hull!
 
Hydro what do I need to do to reinforce where my strut comes out the bottom of the hull after I go with 1 16th bottom?
Im just gonna chime in to help out, but if hydro has a better idea by all means listen to him as he is obviously as good as or BETTER at this stuff as i ever dared to be! I would use slow set epoxy and glue in a 1/16 to 1/8th doubler and i would make it fit bulkhead to bulkhead on top of the floor of the boat....if you want it to be real strong you can add some light wieght fiberglass cloth to the doubler and run it right up the transom....it will add a little weight but will be strong and im the first one to admit that i overbuild my stuff cause i hate to see my boats fall apart! Again if hydro has a better idea, by all means USE IT!
 
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Thanks that's kinda what I was thinking just wanted it reaffirmed and you did it. Gonna give this thing a cut and post some revealing pics tonight.
 
Hydro what do I need to do to reinforce where my strut comes out the bottom of the hull after I go with 1 16th bottom?
Im just gonna chime in to help out, but if hydro has a better idea by all means listen to him as he is obviously as good as or BETTER at this stuff as i ever dared to be! I would use slow set epoxy and glue in a 1/16 to 1/8th doubler and i would make it fit bulkhead to bulkhead on top of the floor of the boat....if you want it to be real strong you can add some light wieght fiberglass cloth to the doubler and run it right up the transom....it will add a little weight but will be strong and im the first one to admit that i overbuild my stuff cause i hate to see my boats fall apart! Again if hydro has a better idea, by all means USE IT!
Duane, I'd do it pretty much like Bill-1/16 birch ply filling the rear center floor glued with slow epoxy(I like West Systems). On the transom I'd add .030" carbon fibre inside and outside. Dumas used the soft Luan mahogany ply on the transom too and the bolts/nuts would compress this wood easily. Nuts/bolts would loosen up when the boat was run hard and then the holes for the rudder mount would get enlarged/elongated. Also put a carbon fibre doubler where the skid fin mounts for the same reason. Good luck,

Glenn
 
One more question here. If I take or leave out the raised skids that are on the bottom of the sponson now. Once I recover with 1 16th.won't there be more water sponson contact area wich would create more drag and slow the boat down? Just trying to figure this one out in my head.Thanks guys for all the advice.
 
One more question here. If I take or leave out the raised skids that are on the bottom of the sponson now. Once I recover with 1 16th.won't there be more water sponson contact area wich would create more drag and slow the boat down? Just trying to figure this one out in my head.Thanks guys for all the advice.
I don't think so Duane, The Dumas kit I built 25 Years ago(1/8 Atlas) was too tall in the front(had to lower the strut till there was very little of the rudder and skid fin in the water and the boat did not turn well). Built a 1/8 Pay& Pak last winter and chopped a full 5/8" off the sponson bottoms and the boat ran and turned very well. Leave the bottom of the boat coated in epoxy and don't paint it before you run it.

Glenn
 
Good call Glenn. Im thinking since all I did was sand the paint off and not the epoxy I may just go run her like she is now since I didnt build her the first time and have never run it. That way I have a before and after surgery test so to speak.
 
Okay guys, stealing my thunder now huh? B)

I would do a few things different than you guys said:

1) Use 3/16 ply for the strut and skid fin doubler

2) Install blind nuts for the rudder and skid fin brackets. Not sure I would do the glass/CF deal

I would also get better hardware. That skid fin bracket is too small and light for that hull. In fact, the bracket and fin both come in the hardware kit for the 20 sized boat.
 
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