Dumas 36 in atlas van lines

[Duane Weathersby]

Hello again boating brothers. My neighbor brought me over an old Dumas Atlas Van Lines 36 in hydro and I'm wondering if you guys might help with opions or tips,expectations for this boat. I am planning on running either my picco 45 or my ops 45 in this hull. Does anyone know where I could start or what may be a good prop for this boat? What speed could be achieavable with this set up? Figured this would be more fun to run than my Vee untill I get my rigger complete. Thanks once again. Duane

 

[Michael Costanzo]

Hello again boating brothers. My neighbor brought me over an old Dumas Atlas Van Lines 36 in hydro and I'm wondering if you guys might help with opions or tips,expectations for this boat. I am planning on running either my picco 45 or my ops 45 in this hull. Does anyone know where I could start or what may be a good prop for this boat? What speed could be achieavable with this set up? Figured this would be more fun to run than my Vee untill I get my rigger complete. Thanks once again. Duane

hi d, that was my first boat,used to runit with a "worked" os max .46,mac pipe at 10 3/4 -11" with a prather 235-240 prop. rudder on right side.should go at least 50+mph

boat was a little lite in corners, plar with stut and rudder angles. good luck,mike.

 

[Duane Weathersby]

Thanks Mike ill give it a shot. I should expect more mph out of my rigger right? I was hoping for at least mid 60s from the rigger.

 

[larcor69]

get ahold of hydro junkie here on the boards, he can help you with anything about a dumas, boat kit!!

 

[camaroboy383]

i have one still in the box that i was gonna build but havnt gotten around to it yet,,, but here is the link to my post and follow the link and advice in there as far as searches and what not... good luck with it

alden

http://www.intlwaters.com/index.php?showto...atlas+van+lines

 

[Duane Weathersby]

Thanks ill give it a read looks like exactly what I'm after.

 

[Michael Costanzo]

Thanks Mike ill give it a shot. I should expect more mph out of my rigger right? I was hoping for at least mid 60s from the rigger.

hi, yes your rigger if set up properly, get together with some of you local ,more experc'd boaters and they will steer you in the right direction,good luck,mike.

 

[Hydro Junkie]

i have one still in the box that i was gonna build but havnt gotten around to it yet,,, but here is the link to my post and follow the link and advice in there as far as searches and what not... good luck with it


alden

http://www.intlwaters.com/index.php?showto...atlas+van+lines

Alden,

Since you haven't started your boat yet, you really need to make a few changes:

1) replace all the cheap framing with aircraft ply. 1/8th inch for the sponson insides, 1/16th inch for all the rest except the transoms, which should be 1/4 inch 5 ply, NOT FROM THE HOME CENTER

2) widen the tunel by no less than 3/4 inch, preferably in the engine bay

3) cut lightning holes in all the underdeck frames to lighten the boat even more

4) use a standard transon mounted skid fin bracket instead of using the supplied fin on the inside of the sponson

Duane,

Here's what I would do with that boat:

1) pull the bottom and sponson runners off the boat and make sure there is no rotting wood

2) if the framing is still solid, cut lightening holes in it to remove some of the weight. My boat weighed in at almost 8 pounds EMPTY due to the heavy framing used in the kit.

3) use 1/16th ply for the bottom to save some more weight

4) if the skid fin is on the inside of the right sponson, install a doubler inside the sponson transom and mount one behind the sponson

Hope that helps you guys out some

 

[camaroboy383]

i have one still in the box that i was gonna build but havnt gotten around to it yet,,, but here is the link to my post and follow the link and advice in there as far as searches and what not... good luck with it


alden

http://www.intlwaters.com/index.php?showto...atlas+van+lines

Alden,

Since you haven't started your boat yet, you really need to make a few changes:

1) replace all the cheap framing with aircraft ply. 1/8th inch for the sponson insides, 1/16th inch for all the rest except the transoms, which should be 1/4 inch 5 ply, NOT FROM THE HOME CENTER

2) widen the tunel by no less than 3/4 inch, preferably in the engine bay

3) cut lightning holes in all the underdeck frames to lighten the boat even more

4) use a standard transon mounted skid fin bracket instead of using the supplied fin on the inside of the sponson

Duane,

Here's what I would do with that boat:

1) pull the bottom and sponson runners off the boat and make sure there is no rotting wood

2) if the framing is still solid, cut lightening holes in it to remove some of the weight. My boat weighed in at almost 8 pounds EMPTY due to the heavy framing used in the kit.

3) use 1/16th ply for the bottom to save some more weight

4) if the skid fin is on the inside of the right sponson, install a doubler inside the sponson transom and mount one behind the sponson

Hope that helps you guys out some

hj, your the man,thanks again, still kinda in the air if i even want to build it anymore,,but one day ill change my mind..kinda a sentimental thing,,buddies father died and he gave me the kit still in the box along with alot of other r/c stuff..

the link i posted above was from when i originally asked,, i tried to save your fingers from typing the same stuff over... but hats off to you..

alden

 

[Hydro Junkie]

That's okay, since I threw out my .02 to Duane as well

 

[Duane Weathersby]

Hydro are you talking about cuting all bottom edges with a dremal cut of wheel? Can I use resin I used to repair my motorcycle fairings with on these builds? If not would Home depot carry a decent epoxy for this? I've heard of west systems but can't find it and don't really want to have to wait if I have to order if there is somthing out there on a shelf that will work. Thanks,Duane

 

[Hydro Junkie]

Hydro are you talking about cuting all bottom edges with a dremal cut of wheel? Can I use resin I used to repair my motorcycle fairings with on these builds? If not would Home depot carry a decent epoxy for this? I've heard of west systems but can't find it and don't really want to have to wait if I have to order if there is somthing out there on a shelf that will work. Thanks,Duane

what I was refering to, Duane, is to cut holes out of the middle of the frames to lighten them up and make draining out any water easier. A Dremel with a 90* adapter with a cutting tip(not cut off wheel) will work great for this. To gain access to the inside of the hull, remove the bottom in the tunnel and the bottom runners from the sponsons as they will be easier to replace than trying to get the deck off. I know the kit comes with 1/8th ply in the tunnel, so by using 1/16th ply, you can drop the weight of that by half. To make the bottom stronger on the edges, glue in some 1/8th square glue blocks to glue the edges of the bottom to in the tunnel. As for the epoxy, I only use West Systems as I found the hobby shop and home center types to be too brittle

 

[Duane Weathersby]

Hydro thanks for the reply. Am I pointing to the right areas? I guess im concerned on the floor that if I cut the center section tub out that it is the same peice of wood that is the bottom of the hull of the boat. Also the sides of the tub up front in the other pick where Im pointing is that also where your saying to cut out? Is this reffered to as the sponson runner? Thanks still learning.

 

[SayMikey]

Hydro thanks for the reply. Am I pointing to the right areas? I guess im concerned on the floor that if I cut the center section tub out that it is the same peice of wood that is the bottom of the hull of the boat. Also the sides of the tub up front in the other pick where Im pointing is that also where your saying to cut out? Is this reffered to as the sponson runner? Thanks still learning.

Ahh a U-76 hull had one years ago i think it ran better than my U-1

 

[Hydro Junkie]

Hydro thanks for the reply. Am I pointing to the right areas? I guess im concerned on the floor that if I cut the center section tub out that it is the same peice of wood that is the bottom of the hull of the boat. Also the sides of the tub up front in the other pick where Im pointing is that also where your saying to cut out? Is this reffered to as the sponson runner? Thanks still learning.

In answer to your questions, the first finger is pointing to the bottom I was refering to, take off that whole piece, from sponson to sponson and all the way to the back of the boat. In answer to question and finger number two, no that is the engine bay wall. I was referring to all the framing under the deck, which are probably solid ply. The sponson runners are the bottom riding surfaces of the sponsons.

I had the U-1 myself Mike, same basic hull since I doubt they used thinner wood anywhere. I'm still trying to figure out what paint scheme to use on mine, Pak, Atlas or Madison

 

[Hydro Junkie]

removed picture to free bandwidth

 

[Duane Weathersby]

here's the second picture, after some cropping and resizing

 

[Duane Weathersby]

Ok so what your saying is to take up the whole bottom of the hull and bottom section of sponsons that protrude below the rest of the sponson and make it flat or equal to the rest of the sponson? Correct? Then cut holes in the runners and replace with 1 16 ply? Should I fill the sponsons with foam if it isn't there already? And the only spot I'm gonna be able to cloth and epoxy is mainly the bottom and.inside the center section of the hull when I go back together because obvisly I have no acces to apply cloth oncr I button it back up? Will cloth and epoxy make it strong enough when only applied to the bottom and sections I can get to in the tub? Thanks Duane

 

[Hydro Junkie]

Okay, lets try this again. The botton in the tunnel I would remove. I would also remove the bottom of the sponsons so you can see what the material inside looks like. I would do this to both sponsons, then sand the bottom of the boat's framing and the sponsons to remove any left over wood and epoxy so they are clean when you install new bottoms. I would use a sanding block for this as a power sander can take off too much. You're not trying to reshape anything, just clean off the old wood and epoxy.

Installing foam is your choise, DON'T USE THE TWO PART EXPANDING FOAM, IT WILL BLOW THE BOAT APART!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Glass is not needed. Use quality epoxy and the boat will be as strong as before you touched it. Install glue blocks along the inside of the tunnel bottom between the frames and the bottom wil be stronger than before, even if 1/16th ply is used

 

[Duane Weathersby]

Ok Hydro I think I understand now but before I go hacking I'm gonna take some pictures of the bottom of my hull and try to photo shop some dashed lines where I think your talking about so I know we are on the same page if you don't mind.