Breaking in new piston liner

[James montgomery]

Lol. Plz. Would like to know more and others opinions.

 

[anthony_marquart]

Oh gosh... run the motor rich and hot till you don't need a wrench to turn it past TDC.. then add a little water and lean down till it hits the pipe.. Doing this out of water does take change the way parts wear. The load is different.. I'm not sure I can explain the details of that... but I personally think think it should be done in the water.

It's not usually that hard if you remember this " motors almost never die on the water from being too rich"

 

[James montgomery]

Im leaning towards the running in water with load on it seem to be wht most of the guys do.

Thanks guys james

 

[Kevin Krogness]

first few tanks on the bench at a fast idle, rich enough to keep it around 180* to 220*. use the needle & fuel to cool it. an infra red temp gun aimed right next to the glow plug on the head button is a good tool for measuring temp B) . let it cool completely between tanks, piston all the way down. the to the pond, still no water, very rich, not wide open for another few tanks. add water & gradually lean it down till it runs well .

I pretty much do this same thing except probably only a tank on the bench bring it up to heat and shut her down and repeat till the tank is gone.... Then go play in the water....

Some use a smaller prop for first runs...

Some run them like they are going to race them...

 

[stan simpson iv]

It seasons the piston liner fit. You can usually tell when it is broken in as it will launch easier and wont get stuck at tdc all the time.

my vote ,.. run blubber rich, on the water, no water to engine, WOT should just barely get on pipe,.. then back off,.. about 6-9 tanks like that,.. maybe running 35 mph in a .21 rigger.. restrict the water to 0.050 hole in top of head,.. add the water and lean down till is comes fully on the pipe.. then leave it alone and and work on pipe length and props

The motor in my twenty hydro was broken in with lots of very rich runs at a good temp and it has been good for four seasons now .

Maybe the break in isn't as crytical as we think?

Here are some condensed posts regarding break in, ( the how I do it posts), anyone else care to tell us how they do there engine break in, also how U tell when it is "broken in", and no Martin it was not a "rhetorical question", may be U would like to share how u do it and how do tell when it is "broken in"?

dick

Mr Jones...When I get my engine in the unbroken sealed box it arrives in, I take it out of the packaging...I hold it in my hand FIRMLY turn it over about 50 times with 3 in 1 oil,bolt her into the boat and lean her out. Just pulling your chain Thank you again for lending me your MAC 67 at the Nat's I do not think that motor had a problem WINNING a US 1 as tight as she was...see you soon. Ready to make an Ice cream run again...

 

[Tim Kish]

It seasons the piston liner fit. You can usually tell when it is broken in as it will launch easier and wont get stuck at tdc all the time.

my vote ,.. run blubber rich, on the water, no water to engine, WOT should just barely get on pipe,.. then back off,.. about 6-9 tanks like that,.. maybe running 35 mph in a .21 rigger.. restrict the water to 0.050 hole in top of head,.. add the water and lean down till is comes fully on the pipe.. then leave it alone and and work on pipe length and props

The motor in my twenty hydro was broken in with lots of very rich runs at a good temp and it has been good for four seasons now .

Maybe the break in isn't as crytical as we think?

Here are some condensed posts regarding break in, ( the how I do it posts), anyone else care to tell us how they do there engine break in, also how U tell when it is "broken in", and no Martin it was not a "rhetorical question", may be U would like to share how u do it and how do tell when it is "broken in"?

dick

Mr Jones...When I get my engine in the unbroken sealed box it arrives in, I take it out of the packaging...I hold it in my hand FIRMLY turn it over about 50 times with 3 in 1 oil,bolt her into the boat and lean her out. Just pulling your chain Thank you again for lending me your MAC 67 at the Nat's I do not think that motor had a problem WINNING a US 1 as tight as she was...see you soon. Ready to make an Ice cream run again...

Perhaps we tend to over think things in our little hobby , Ice cream sounds good though.

 

[Norm Doerr]

It seasons the piston liner fit. You can usually tell when it is broken in as it will launch easier and wont get stuck at tdc all the time.

my vote ,.. run blubber rich, on the water, no water to engine, WOT should just barely get on pipe,.. then back off,.. about 6-9 tanks like that,.. maybe running 35 mph in a .21 rigger.. restrict the water to 0.050 hole in top of head,.. add the water and lean down till is comes fully on the pipe.. then leave it alone and and work on pipe length and props

The motor in my twenty hydro was broken in with lots of very rich runs at a good temp and it has been good for four seasons now .

Maybe the break in isn't as crytical as we think?

Here are some condensed posts regarding break in, ( the how I do it posts), anyone else care to tell us how they do there engine break in, also how U tell when it is "broken in", and no Martin it was not a "rhetorical question", may be U would like to share how u do it and how do tell when it is "broken in"?

dick

Sunnen Hone. Run boat clockwise don't hit anything.

 

[Tofastformellow]

does anyone still strip there motors out of the box anymore to clean out the flushing from machining ?

i have always hated to do this , to risk damaging a brand new engine with my fumble fingered disasembly .... my most sucessfull break in procedure from new ...

was take the motor out of the box , fill it with ATF(red auto trans oil) oil

mount it in boat .... pump the atf out with the starter into a lint free cloth ... put the plug in the head loose , just finger tight , , then open full throttle , and open the needle as far as it will go , start the engine on 0% nitro , just methanol and oil (after run fuel) and control the rpm by putting my finger on the pipe exhaust , thus putting extra pressure on the tank keeping the motor super rich , with the needle full open , ... the engine will not go to high rpm.. it will spit alot of oil out the pipe and you will see all the tiny flecks of alloy in the oil ... this cleans all the tiny nano sized particles of metal out the engine into the pipe insted of cycled around into your engine ..

run two tanks like this .. , then add nitro fuel , set the needle valve , run the pipe so short it will not turn on , and a small prop hit the water , and go run 3-4 more tanks through.... then back to the bench , set the head clearance , lengthen the pipe , and prop up ,and lean out ... after 6 tanks you should set the needles and then dont touch anything , just run her hard .

i got these instructions hand written out of a nova mega box , in the 80's back when i was raceing 1/8th scale , on 700$ .21 engines ....

sure the instructions were written for a car , but it just made sence to me

every motor i did this procedure to , had a very low and stable idle , and pulled well through out its life ..

jason

 

[dr gary turner]

first few tanks on the bench at a fast idle, rich enough to keep it around 180* to 220*. use the needle & fuel to cool it. an infra red temp gun aimed right next to the glow plug on the head button is a good tool for measuring temp B) . let it cool completely between tanks, piston all the way down. the to the pond, still no water, very rich, not wide open for another few tanks. add water & gradually lean it down till it runs well .

I have a couple of questions please,

what does the "break in" process actually do.

and what type of info do U use to determine if it is broken in properly.

thank you

dick

sounds like a rhetorical question.

Truly a rhetorical question!!!!!!!!! AND THE ANSWER IS????????????????? DON'T HOLD BACK NOW DICK

 

[dr gary turner]

first few tanks on the bench at a fast idle, rich enough to keep it around 180* to 220*. use the needle & fuel to cool it. an infra red temp gun aimed right next to the glow plug on the head button is a good tool for measuring temp B) . let it cool completely between tanks, piston all the way down. the to the pond, still no water, very rich, not wide open for another few tanks. add water & gradually lean it down till it runs well .

I have a couple of questions please,

what does the "break in" process actually do.

and what type of info do U use to determine if it is broken in properly.

thank you

dick

sounds like a rhetorical question.

Truly a rhetorical question!!!!!!!!! AND THE ANSWER IS????????????????? DON'T HOLD BACK NOW DICK

FOUND YOUR ANSWER. HOPE YOU ARE DOING WELL. BTW MY DAD SAID IT WAS -8 DEG IN WATERLOO WITH THE WIND CHILL THIS MORNING . DON'T YOU WISH YOU WERE BACK "HOME".

 

[FloridaScaleBoater]

I just don't know why people have to make this "toy boat" thing so difficult!!!!

New engine, take apart, clean WELL. Set clearances YOU want, and WORKS FOR YOU!

Install in the intended boat. Go to the lake, test fire engine, set needle RICH.

Throw the boat in the water, WITH WATER HOOKED UP

(unless your outside (ambient) air temp is VERY cold) Run with water.

Run 3 to 4 tanks of fuel through the engine VERY RICH, varying your throttle, open it up ONCE IN A WHILE for a lap, then lower throttle to let it cool down some. Repeat,, for 3 to 4 tanks

NOW, I will tell you a VERY well known and VERY fast boater (Jerry Crowther) witnessed my "Break-in" procedure.

He asked what I was doing,, when I told him,,, his comment was, break it in, the way your going to use it..

I still do my routine.

 

[Grimracer]

Truth is I never know when my motor is broke in.. I can however tell when its wore out.

I run two tanks though a new motor on the bench fat rich WFO using the mixture to set the motor speed allowing it to cool between each cycle.

Then I put it in the boat and race it..

I cannot tell the difference between the first heat race and the last... I cant even say I race my motors fat.. I still get a number of years of use from a engine.



Grim

 

[Piston1]

After deburring the sleeve I fit my big block Cmbs using Hyprez 1micron compound. Then I heat cycle 3 times in the stand. Then I run 3 - 4 times rich needle, then we are ready.

 

[Tom Foley]

I just don't know why people have to make this "toy boat" thing so difficult!!!!

New engine, take apart, clean WELL. Set clearances YOU want, and WORKS FOR YOU!

Install in the intended boat. Go to the lake, test fire engine, set needle RICH.

Throw the boat in the water, WITH WATER HOOKED UP

(unless your outside (ambient) air temp is VERY cold) Run with water.

Run 3 to 4 tanks of fuel through the engine VERY RICH, varying your throttle, open it up ONCE IN A WHILE for a lap, then lower throttle to let it cool down some. Repeat,, for 3 to 4 tanks

NOW, I will tell you a VERY well known and VERY fast boater (Jerry Crowther) witnessed my "Break-in" procedure.

He asked what I was doing,, when I told him,,, his comment was, break it in, the way your going to use it..

I still do my routine.

Pretty much what I do except I usually start them up many times on the stand and let them run at a high idle and run the throttle up and down a few times and let cool .Once they start real easy I'll throw them in and run'em . What ever works .

 

[James montgomery]

Hey thanks guys verey helpfulk stuff want to make my moters run for a long time

So wht kind of things do u guys do to the moters after a day of running whn u put them back on the shelf for the week? Anything special?

James

 

[FloridaScaleBoater]

Hey thanks guys verey helpfulk stuff want to make my moters run for a long time

So wht kind of things do u guys do to the moters after a day of running whn u put them back on the shelf for the week? Anything special?

James

Oh boy,,,, There goes another "Can-O-Worms"

You will get even MORE answer's than to your original question

 

[Tony Drake]

Burn out old fuel.. 2-3 flushes with RISLONE...... DONE.... Never any problems

 

[Kevin Krogness]

http://www.intlwaters.com/index.php?showtopic=55470

Here you go a recent thread on the subject!

 

[Brian Sorgente]

Run the engine on the bench until its good and warm. Shut it down, pull the fuel and pressure lines, pull the glow plug, spin the engine over with the starter, and drain any excess fuel out of the pipe. Then open the carb and shoot a bunch of corrosion x down the throat while spinning it over with your starter. Do all of this while its still warm so it washes out the nitro / gets into every little crevis. Also spray some through the fuel nipple and water jacket.

At the end of the day it's all about getting the nitro out and oil in. Use an after run oil that leaves a film on everything, not one that will eventually run off or hurt silicone ramps. That's why I switched from mystery oil to corrosion x.

When you get home or even at the pond, take the engine out of the boat to get it away from any excess moisture thats still in it. This also stops oil from dripping inside the hull. Give it another good dose of oil and wrap it in a rag until the next time you go out.

I wouldn't recomend running the Niro out of your engine, to me that's pretty much like running an engine without oil.

Brian

 

[HOTWATER]

Fire that sucker up and run the balls out of it...lol! What do drag racers and Nascar guys do with a new engine?? Martin???