Blazer Lauterbach Build Thread

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Rotisserie for painting in confined space. The tent I’m using is 6 feet deep by 9
feet wide. It’s maybe 5.5 feet tall. I figured this would be a lot easier than trying to
crouch down and walk around the boat. I also plan to use this just for working on boats. While my work table is on wheels, it will make it easier on the back just to be able to spin a boat using this.
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So, set up the tent today, and got some primer on the hatches and the hull. Outside of the fact that the heat index is 104, I think it went pretty well. The cowls have some pinholes as you would expect. I will hit those with 3M spot putty. On the hull, there’s one tiny spot that needs attention on the turn fin side sponson transom. Other than that, shouldn’t be long before we get the wet sanding done and start getting some color on the boat.
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Rich......you are a better man than I am
buddy,,, that's all I can say. I admire your dedication to the perfection of this build.

You and your wife should be very proud of the final product when it's on display.. can't wait to see the final pictures!!

Concourse quality to say the least!!!
 
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Rich......you are a better man than I am
buddy,,, that's all I can say. I admire your dedication to the perfection of this build.

You and your wife should be very proud of the final product when it's on display.. can't wait to see the final pictures!!

Concourse quality to say the least!!!
Well thanks Frank! All I can say is I doubt the clear will impress those with more discerning eyes. I imagine it will have some imperfections like orange peel and those sorts of things. Likely I’ll get it on the water(after taking lots of pics) and towards fall I’ll wet sand it and take it for a proper clear coat. Who knows I may try to polish it myself after a month or so but I don’t want to burn through it. I tend to be overzealous with that sort of thing.
 
Well, that's the nice thing about using a spray gun,, you can add fisheye reducer, different temp reducers etc..It's usually a lot more than most people want to deal with for a model, but if you plan on a professional clear anyway, I'm sure they can wetsand out a little orange peel..

PS...I'm just happy if mine doesn't have dog/cat hair and gnats and mosquitoes stuck to it!! :D
 
Wow! I just read the whole thread. What a beauitful boat. As allways never too old to learn something. I like several parts of the build.
I have needed a paint booth since I retired and closed the BBY Shop. I like the tent
I have a similar project. I have the Roy Munoz molds and I am going to build a thiftway shovel for Peter Munoz with a Teak veneer deck in the lay up.
 

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Wow! I just read the whole thread. What a beauitful boat. As allways never too old to learn something. I like several parts of the build.
I have needed a paint booth since I retired and closed the BBY Shop. I like the tent
I have a similar project. I have the Roy Munoz molds and I am going to build a thiftway shovel for Peter Munoz with a Teak veneer deck in the lay up.
Wow Randy that sounds really cool! Can’t wait to see pics! And thanks for complimenting my thread! You must have been reading for a bit!
 
Wow Randy that sounds really cool! Can’t wait to see pics! And thanks for complimenting my thread! You must have been reading for a bit!
I have had the veneer for over 20 years or more. I was never sure of the correct way to proceed. I was also too busy with BBY and Racing to have the time to do it. Now that I have the time you inspired me to get on with it.
 
Yeah I don’t know if the way I did it was the “correct way” but it worked fine. Some guys just use peel and stick mahogany veneer and others use vacuum pumps and bags. If you are laying this up in the mold it should work ok. Just be careful because it’s really brittle until it gets laminated. That’s why I elected to do the laminating process first because I didn’t really have a place to keep the veneer safe. I also hated the thought of getting to the decking part of the build and having to put everything on hold while I took days to epoxy, weight, etc… good luck with the layup! Post some pics!
 
Thinking about your paint booth theory makes a lot of sense.Always getting critters in the paint but using a screened in tent keeps the critters at bay great theory getting ready to paint my rigger i normally use my large compressor at home two stage 80 gallon 175 psi compressor.Being at the camp site all I have is a small pancake compressor going to see if I can use my Mac touch up gun I have some left over urethane paint from jlg lifts from where I use to work.Orange and cream .
 
Thinking about your paint booth theory makes a lot of sense.Always getting critters in the paint but using a screened in tent keeps the critters at bay great theory getting ready to paint my rigger i normally use my large compressor at home two stage 80 gallon 175 psi compressor.Being at the camp site all I have is a small pancake compressor going to see if I can use my Mac touch up gun I have some left over urethane paint from jlg lifts from where I use to work.Orange and cream .
The tent is infinitely better than painting out in the wind. I bought this to try as it does have a screen that comes down which would help with bugs. It was only 50.00 so not a large investment. I also have a large ez-up that I’ve used and may still use on the clear coat on this boat. It has sides and a zippered door that attach. It does not have a floor so you need to lay a tarp down to further prevent bugs that may be in the grass in that area. This smaller tent is so much easier to deal with but it has its limitations. It is advertised as being 6 feet deep but in all honesty, it tapers from the bottom up so with the boat on the table, I only have 4 feet or so to work with front to back when spinning the boat around. This wouldn’t be a problem at all for a sport 40 or even a scale but this boat is 52” long. So I had to set the table more toward the front and move the turntable toward the front of the table to get it so the boat didn’t hit the back of the tent as I spin it. I set it up after gauging the wind direction with its back to the wind. So again, not a perfect situation but better than half of my expensive paint product blowing off into the wind. You just never realize, regardless of the weather, the amount of air that is moving outside ALL THE TIME, until you go to try spray painting something.
 
OH Incidentally, I mentioned above that I needed to fill some pinholes and that the auto paint store recommended 3M glazing putty. This is the rust colored stuff that comes in a what resembles a big tube of toothpaste. I had never used it before but they say they swear by it and I really liked that no hardener is needed. It dries by itself in 20 min or so. So I tried it. I have no idea why I’ve never tried this before but I won’t go without it again. I can’t even describe how easy it is to work with. I put a surgical glove on and just used my finger. I went to dinner with my daughter and when I got back I went down to see how easy or hard it would be to sand. It literally sands off like butter and filled every pinhole. Not one of them had the filler pulled out in the sanding process. Pretty happy with this product. It was like 30.00 for this tube but it should last a while unless it hardens in the tube now that it has been exposed to air. I guess we will see. It is rather stinky like all the other body fillers so I’m probably going to be in trouble tonight when my lady gets home😂
 
Hi Rich, an idea for filling pin holes. Before I started trying to learn about boats and racing them, I built and flew jets. Pin holes were a problem on the fiberglass fuselage. Bob Voilet models sells a product called pin hole filler, very easy to use, and no sanding. Just wipe it on, let it dry to a hase, and buff off. Then prime again. Just a thought for you
 
Hi Rich, an idea for filling pin holes. Before I started trying to learn about boats and racing them, I built and flew jets. Pin holes were a problem on the fiberglass fuselage. Bob Voilet models sells a product called pin hole filler, very easy to use, and no sanding. Just wipe it on, let it dry to a hase, and buff off. Then prime again. Just a thought for you

Just make sure it's compatible with whatever paints and topcoat you are going to be using.. I've heard of people selling drywall mud as pinhole filler. Which I guess would be ok, if you are planning to paint your model with house paint..🤣
 
They make a rubber sqeegee for the spot putty like 1 1/2 x3 3m works nice to force putty in the pin holes.Phil Thomas told me to use dry wall putty on the epoxy glass to file pin holes it works easy to sand .Do this before any primer.The spot putty has a tendency to shrink so use it sparingly too much is no good.
 
I was helping this friend of mine paint his boat, (he was the body paint man for our local Ford Dealership) he had all the fancy stuff where he worked. When it came to the final primer sealer coat he would take a razerblade with some spot filler on it and work his way around the boat filling even the smallest of pin holes. It was a very nice paint job and I would have never seen them small imperfections had he not done it that way. It is the goto pinhole plan.
I won’t go without it again.
I went to our local NAPA and picked up a tube as well, its great stuff. using it to fill the 3D printer lines on my Allison Headers.
Looking Sweet Rich
 
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