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Lookin Great Mr. J
Blazer Lauterbach Build Thread
- Thread starter Rich Jones
- Start date
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Yeah I agree, hopefully won’t be too long! I was able to go to my local paint store yesterday. I hadn’t been there for a while (like a few years). They are set up to do ANY color in Spraymaxx cans. So I walked out with two cans of GM Autumn Maple Metallic, a can of Metallic Silver from the same year (Corvette color), a can of SEM primer, and two 2k Glamour cans. I already had two clear cans sitting at home and I figure the boat will take the better part of 4 cans. So supplies are in the house! I have some epoxy work yet to do on the hull (hatches are done) before I’m ready to start masking. I also wanted to get the radio installed before disassembling everything . I had talked about taking to a paint shop but this will be cheaper and less logistical issues in the end. I don’t enjoy the painting process AT ALL but it’s a necessary evil in this hobby and others.
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Rich, if you don't mind me asking, how much do they charge for loading the paint into the cans?
Do they have different sizes?
And it's a one shot deal right? Once activated,
you only have so long before it hardens in the can....
Just trying to get a grip on cost factor VS. using a Preval sprayer or my small spray gun..
Do they have different sizes?
And it's a one shot deal right? Once activated,
you only have so long before it hardens in the can....
Just trying to get a grip on cost factor VS. using a Preval sprayer or my small spray gun..
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Yeah Frank, not cheap by any means. 30.00 each on the color cans. There’s really only one size. The clear I normally buy on Amazon but grabbed a couple yesterday. You’re right. You have a maximum of 48 hours once activated. If you are set up with a place to spray and equipment, then it is more economical to go that route. For me, I have to drag all that stuff outside, and back in when I’m done. I really don’t have the right compressor although I think it would work on a small scale. It’s just a combo of factors that normally steer me away from it. In the end, the spraymax stuff yields pretty acceptable results. I wouldn’t put in the same class as what you could do indoors with all the right equipment though. EVERYTHING winds up being a compromise for me but just have to live with it, because I like my current mortgage payments ($ 0 ).
Scott Tonak
Well-Known Member
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Incredible attention to detail. Wish I had that kind of patience. Lookin' Bad A$$
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Thank you Scott!
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Servos installed and linkages made. This box is really good sized. I test fit my receiver and gps module which will be mounted on the lid. Plenty of room for everything. I have not set up the radio for the boat yet but that will be a minor thing to do after paint. Now it’s on to dismantling everything and sealing the outside of the boat. The Hatches are ready for masking and primer already.
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I really like that set-up on the throttle. Every time I look back through your build I see a new detail that makes it stand out. Once you get done sealin her up can you video of your break in? how is a good way to fire up a new Zen engine?
Always a pleasure.
Always a pleasure.
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What carb are you running? 257? Something else? Are you using the pull starter? My first gas motor was in the Backlash. It was modified and dynoed. Since it had been on the dyno already, I didn’t really worry too much about break in. For the stock zen I’d probably get the boat on plane, and then alternate between slow laps and fast laps.
maybe a couple slow, one fast, another slow, etc… Do that for a couple bags/tanks of fuel and that should be all you need. On the 257 carb you’ll be maybe 2 1/8 on the low needle and 1 1/8 on the high. I don’t have experience with other carbs. Put your thumb over the carb opening and slowly pull though the stroke a couple times until you have gas on your thumb. Then give it a rip. Make sure you have radio in hand in case you need to open it up some. Easy as that Chuck. I pulled off my pull starter and installed a pulley I got from Daniel Place and I start with a Sullivan Dynatron and a belt. I find it a lot easier.
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I got everything apart today and then realized I hadn’t made doublers for the sponson deck where it extends past the sponson transom. I glued in 1/8 sq. supports under where the overhang and the hull meet. Then I held plywood under the overhang and traced out the shape and cut them out using 1/16 ply. This area gets grabbed a lot and will need the extra support.
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1st sealer coat on the bottom and sides. MAS LV Resin and Slow Hardener mixed with Denatured Alcohol. Apply, let soak in for 10-15 min and wipe off excess. Tomorrow I will scrape with a razor, lightly sand with 220 and repeat the process. We will see where we are after that as far as the grain being filled. The top will be a little bit of a different process which will get done last.
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I didnt think about that, very smart idea. Going in for my back thursday thankfully its just a bone spur.
Looking great Rich
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I hope they get you fixed up Chuck. Back issues make it hard to do anything, even small stuff. I’d like to take credit for the idea on the sponson overhangs but this is something the Blazers recommend in their instructions I believe. Otherwise, you just have a piece of 1/16 hanging over with no support.
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Ok, I have spent bits and pieces of the last few days applying epoxy and then scraping with a blade and sanding with 220. This has required some patience and some ibuprofen for sore fingers. The top is really really close to being completely flat at this stage. There are a handful of areas that are low ( small) that I’m going to give a little more attention. Maybe a dab of epoxy and then scrape flat. There’s also a couple areas in the engine compartment that need to be resealed. I took some pics as I was wiping everything down with Naptha. I’m thinking the clear should lay nice and flat on this!
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I think I went 5+ times with the epoxy before I reached a fair trade off... I have a few fish eyes and low spots to refill before I lay the Clear coat. Hope it turns out like yours. A+++ on Your wicked wood deck, the pattern is very Deep and choice looking.
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Keep in mind that when I originally laminated the veneer to the plywood, each piece got 1-2 (mostly 2) coats of thinned epoxy to really lock it in and seal it to hopefully save on scratches and chip outs during the building process. That said, to get to this point, I put an unthinned coat on, let it sit for a bit, and hit it with a plastic scraper (similar to what you would spread bondo with). After that mess I scraped with a razor and sanded with 220. Then the next day I brushed on an unthinned, fairly thick coat and left it to cure without scraping off excess. This is where I really started to fill the low spots. After that cured, I scraped and sanded and scraped and sanded to get to where I am. I’m going to fill those low spots and for good measure I’m going to do one more coat where I apply thinned epoxy, and then wipe it off. I’m doing this because along with low spots there were still a few high spots and while they are level, they are no longer coated with epoxy so I need to basically wipe on one more coat to seal and keep everything level. I’m doing this on the sides and bottom too for the same reason. I do not want to see ANY shrinkage of the clear into wood grain. It is SO ANNOYING when you start seeing wood grain coming out in your clear after a few times at the lake. This is a special build that will be run, but also displayed at car shows with its big sister.
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Finally to the point of starting masking.
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Thanks man lotsa work. I’m terrible at glass finishes on clear. I hope this stuff lays down for me with the weather being warmer. It’ll be nice and shiny but I just don’t have the facilities to do mirror finishes . Worst case I’ll have a pro shoot a clear on it if I don’t like it.
