Is there a video or diagram that shows where exactly you are talking about? And why from each blade? The blade on the far side in the video seems to be the heavy one. I’m still in the learning stage.
I hate being dumb, but I don’t know how to find post #9
I found it. Thanks
Ken you have to clip on the link of another thread that I posted. Then scroll to post 9 on that thread.
You never will find a Beardslee’s Prop Service prop with the hub cut up to balance! I had multiple mandrels of a few .0001’s oversized to hand fit each prop. As finishing reams start to dull they usually cut slightly oversized. I never use tapered collars that locate off the ends of the hub due to those surfaces are usually not square to the bore. When I start to work on a prop I use a well worn 220 grit belt on my 1”x 42” sander, I put a small flat (.015” approx) all the way around each blade so as I work the back side of each blade I can see how thin it’s getting. I don’t use a backer plate on the sander so the belt flexes with the contour of the blade. I then put the prop on the balancer and mark the blade face of the heavy part, that would be everything below the centerline of the prop. If one blade is heavy I remove material from the whole back of that blade. If the prop hangs level I remove material from the back side of blade the front/leading edge that’s heavy and then remove material from the back side of the rear/trailing edge of the other blade. I do a little at a time on each blade and by using this method I’ve never cut a hub. If I have to remove a lot of material on larger props I use a 60 or 80 grit belt that I knock down the grit with a piece of steel first and then switch to finer grit 220 belts to finish the balance. I polish using a buffer to do the face and back of the blades. At the pond I’ve used a Dremel with various attachments to remove material. As accurate as investment casting is it is still very difficult to hold the bore centered, it’s usually cast undersized and then finish reamed after casting. The shape of propellers don’t lend themselves to a robust fixturing setup and just a few .001 off center can really effect balance especially if it’s out of line with the blades. If it’s in line with the blade it will hang one blade down as apposed to level or as some call hub heavy.
Wow, you guys are great. I’ve learned a lot in the past 2 days. Really appreciate everyone sharing their knowledge. You can’t find information like this everywhere. I’ll let you know how the balance comes out on this. Thank You.
I still tease people about being so particular about balancing the prop and then put on a bushing supported shaft. Anything a modeler does to balance as close as their equipment or ability does is going to enhance their boat’s performance. Any sharpening and cleaning up surfaces will also pay big dividends in performance. Being left handed and working on left hand prop is also a big help. I’ll never forget the first right had prop I did, it took me forever to finish! I thought I’d had a stroke! Do full sized props that were all left hand and then so many left hand model boat props created lots of muscle memory.
