Anyone interested in these tuned pipes??

[dwilfong]

1.5 for the header an

Hi all,

I posted some information about the tether hydro's that I run with some pictures and I got a few people asking about one of the tuned pipes that I use, see pictures below

The one below is for 3.5cc engines, they are all screw together and come with 3 different length manifolds in 2mm increments, they also come with 3 different stingers with different bores, 6.0-6.3 and 6.5mm.

They are generally regarded as the best possible pipes for tethered cars and tethered hydros. They are available for 3.5cc, 5cc and 10cc engines so I guess that anyone using one for an RC application would be interested in the 3.5cc variant only.

View attachment 287522

View attachment 287523

I am talking to the guy who makes them as I want some more and thought I would reach out and ask a few questions to see if this pipe is suitable for RC boats. If it is or can be with some adjustments I would be willing to commission him to manufacture some for use in RC boats for others to buy.

The main question - These are typically straight pipes with no angle to the manifold, if we were to get these made with an angled manifold (and a pressure nipple) what angles are typically used? (or are they preferred with a straight manifold?)

Materials - This one is stainless steel but Aluminium is also available, Stainless steel apparently works better but what would the preference be?


If you feel they are of no use I won't bother taking it any further

Regards

1.5 for the header angle.
What is the rear cone angle on the 10cc?

 

[Charles Perdue]

Piggy Bank? Just fire up the still for the correct amount!

Yes....but it is soooooo easy to drink up all the profits.(hic)

 

[Ricky Neal]

Ricky, although the integral exhaust stub coupler is cool it may be very unique to specific motors which is often the case for tether cars and planes I guess. I believe most boaters would prefer a simple straight section with a flange like the Bouchie pipe shown below.

Understood, I will see what we can do with that. FYI the flange is standard Novarossi size (19.5'ish mm)

See pictures, I presumed this would only be usable for .21's configured like the Novarossi DD or the CMB and it fits both of those perfectly.

Do you think it is something that people will want to use with a wrap-around manifold?

 

[Ricky Neal]

Hi all,

I just wanted to share the dimensions with you all so we can compare them to other pipes you may be using

See the picture for dimensions (the overall length is 294mm not 292mm)

How does this compare to pipes you are already using?

 

[Ricky Neal]

1.5 for the header an

1.5 for the header angle.
What is the rear cone angle on the 10cc?

If it's only a 1.5-degree angle then I would just run a straight pipe and just angle it on the exhaust rubber, what are your thoughts on this?

As for 10cc cone angle, I don't have one here to measure but I can ask, I do have a genuine Picco 60 speed pipe here though, I can measure that if you can tell me the best way to do it?

 

[RaceMechaniX]

Hello Ricky, due to the variety of engine installations I would just provide a simple slip joint that allows a traditional header or direct silicone coupler to the exhaust stub on the engine. A hydro, mono or sport hydro will likely need different angles between the engine and pipe so it would be my advice to provide a universal design. In heat racing, TT or SAW boats we tend to need some adjustability in the pipe length, but instead of using fixed header pipes, we will just move the pipe within the coupler or header. I think screw in diffusors will be cost prohibitive for most boaters.

If you want, I can reverse engineer the Picco pipe you have in CAD and compare against other known pipes I have modeled. Easiest way is to mark the pipe every inch starting at the header and measure the diameter. I can then revolve the cross-section based on a spline fit of the measurements.

 

[Ricky Neal]

Hello Ricky, due to the variety of engine installations I would just provide a simple slip joint that allows a traditional header or direct silicone coupler to the exhaust stub on the engine. A hydro, mono or sport hydro will likely need different angles between the engine and pipe so it would be my advice to provide a universal design. In heat racing, TT or SAW boats we tend to need some adjustability in the pipe length, but instead of using fixed header pipes, we will just move the pipe within the coupler or header. I think screw in diffusors will be cost prohibitive for most boaters.

If you want, I can reverse engineer the Picco pipe you have in CAD and compare against other known pipes I have modeled. Easiest way is to mark the pipe every inch starting at the header and measure the diameter. I can then revolve the cross-section based on a spline fit of the measurements.

Thanks,

It does seem that it would be simpler to do as you suggest and just use a separate header with a silicone joiner, Its a shame as I really like how they are fixed but at least it will likely make it more cost-effective

I will measure up the Picco pipe and send you the data. I am just about good enough with Fusion 360 that I may give it a go as well. It would be great to compare .21 pipes as well.

I am working on something where I will need to be testing some pipes on an engine (top secret but share soon) and if I can get some examples of particularly good pipes it would help a lot.

Regards

Ricky

 

[dwilfong]

If it's only a 1.5-degree angle then I would just run a straight pipe and just angle it on the exhaust rubber, what are your thoughts on this?

As for 10cc cone angle, I don't have one here to measure but I can ask, I do have a genuine Picco 60 speed pipe here though, I can measure that if you can tell me the best way to do it?

View attachment 287574

I miss under stood the angle you where referring to.
I was talking ID of the header tapper.
Best way to check the angle of the cones is to measure the OD at the start of the cone and at the end of the cone and the length of that cone.
Then I can calculate the angle.
Just leave a standard amount of header pipe and then it can be cut to length and slide over a standard header that is already available.
I know many would like a billet replica of the .90 Muck pipe.

 

[Timbo Whalen]

do you require an angled manifold? Price will be approx £100-£150 depending on the configuration

Hi Ricky-

So, 150 pounds equates to approx. $210 US then.

Thanks.

 

[Timbo Whalen]

Ricky, although the integral exhaust stub coupler is cool it may be very unique to specific motors which is often the case for tether cars and planes I guess. I believe most boaters would prefer a simple straight section with a flange like the Bouchie pipe shown below.

Hi Tyler-

Is that a photo of Scott's 91/101 (15cc) pipe?...

Thanks.

 

[RaceMechaniX]

Hello Tim,

The JAE21 has a 21 heat racing pipe and the other is a special 80 SAW pipe.

-Tyler

 

[Timbo Whalen]

Hello Tim,

The JAE21 has a 21 heat racing pipe and the other is a special 80 SAW pipe.

-Tyler

Thank you, Tyler... so, this pipe I've attached is the 13cc SAW pipe, I assume-



I figured it was probably a SAW pipe by the steeper baffle cone angle...

looks like it has a tight taper on the lead-in to the diffuser 1st stage, too.

Thanks for your reply, was just curious.

Tim

 

[RaceMechaniX]

Thank you, Tyler... so, this pipe I've attached is the 13cc SAW pipe, I assume-

View attachment 288700

I figured it was probably a SAW pipe by the steeper baffle cone angle...

looks like it has a tight taper on the lead-in to the diffuser 1st stage, too.

Thanks for your reply, was just curious.

Tim

Tim,
That looks like a 13cc or 15cc pipe.

 

[RaceMechaniX]

Hello Ricky, any progress on the pipes?

 

[Charles Perdue]

And the engines......?

 

[Wasted wages]

 

[Timbo Whalen]

Tim,
That looks like a 13cc or 15cc pipe.

Yeah, it's a Bouchie 91/101 pipe.... too tight of a baffle cone for heat racing, IMO.... needs a bit
more over rev.