Ok guys lets talk about header pipes . Last sommer I finished a MODDED VAC 45 JAE with a stock 4" long header pipe uncut and a $ 25.00 cmb quite pipe from stu bar starying @ 10 1/2" I ran it all the way in to 8 3/4" and ran low 80s
while I have looking for a AB pipe . The combo worked well until I cut the header down to a 1 1/2'' and thats when I lost major power . I came back out to 9 1/4" and still nothing. I barrowed a AB 45 parobolic and still nothing .I ordered a new header pipe put it on powers back with both pipes. My understanding is you cut the header header down so the shock wave will work better with no restrictions .I am still looking for a nice Andy Brown pipe . thanks Charlie
Can anyone explain the principal of cutting down the header pipe . The drawinng shows more of what I am trying to explaine above.
Charles, been there, done that, long header has more torque, your boat setup, prop combo must need the extra torque from the longer header, short header jumps to a larger angle in the pipe for less torque.
JM2CW
dick
Dick thanks for the Explanation on the header so what way do you think would be the better way to go for pipe salection I just got a cooper pipe and I was looking at one of the novarossi and one of the AA pipe. I again thank you for your wisdom Charles
My question is what do U want to do with your boat, race it or just try to go faster, if it is racing U should look at the speed U gave, low 80's, and how was that speed obtained, on a long straight run or between buoy 9 and buoy 1, if it was between buoy 9 and buoy 1 and it throttles fairly easily, your boat is ready to race with 98 percent of the boats I have used the truth alizer on in racing conditions. When there are multiple boats racing on a course and the water gets chopped up and ad a little wind the actual speed of the boats on the course is reduced quite a lot depending on how rough the water gets. If your goal is to make your boat go as fast as U can, there are to many variables with each boat to just pick one pipe as the best pipe with out trying all the available pipes and changing all the variables such as carbs and carb sizes, spray bar diameters, induction numbers, liner passage mods, piston mods, transfer, boost, and exhaust timing changes, piston tops flat or dished, head button design which there are many designs, piston to liner seal, loose, tight or just right?, piston to head button distance, I have seen engines running from .002 to .035, clearance, how many water lines in, and how many lines out in the cooling jackets, ( I have a Mac 45 that I run without any water cooling), air temp, water temp, humidity, altitude, density altitude,, grains of water, and then try to pick 1 of about 600 different glowplugs with heat ranges from super hot to super cold, it would be pretty hard for any one to pick the best pipe unless they had O be One Knobee standing by your side, I say this because there are so many boaters that have a particular pipe that they like and works well for them, in there particular application or boat which may have been the best pipe they tried and they are happy with it. It truly is a trial by fire getting to the place U are happy with your boat and how much time U are willing to spend on it.
Hope this helps
JM2CW
dick