3RD CHANNEL SET UP ON CMB 45 RS

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Shane Resiler

Member
Joined
Nov 5, 2009
Messages
12
Hi Guys,

So far I have had some good info from people on this board, and being new to Nitro it goes a long way.

I am setting up the 3rd ch needle on a CMB 45 RS and was wondering waht setting I should start at.

I dont know whethere to turn the arm all the way out and adjsut with the top needle, or pull wind out the arm 1 turn and adjsut the needle.

I run in about 28 degree celsius and using an CMB 45 Pipe at about 10.5 inches to start. I am going to be running 50% nitro with an L1 K&B plug.

Any help would be appreciated...I dont want to hit the lake in a few weeks and sepnd the rntir day trying to find a starting point!

Thanks again.

Shane
 
Shane,

Switch to the K&B HP plug if you can, it is a much better choice for .45's and up.

As for the needle, you really want it set up as far in as you can get it without bottoming out when you lean it down as far as the radio will go. I know, clear as mud, huh? :rolleyes:

If you've got anybody in the club with a flowmeter, see if you can borrow it for a couple minutes and set your needle as such:

With the radio third channel set on zero (middle of travel), and the needle tiller arm in the middle of it's travel, flow the needle at 6 on the flow meter. This should get you very close. This number is for a propane set up. If you've got a Boris Mazor flowmeter, somebody else will have to chime in and give you a number to flow at.

Thanks. Brad.

Titan Racing Components

BlackJack Hydros
 
Set the arm on the needle in the middle with the servo at neutral. Open the needle about 3 turns to start (guessing here) and start the motor. If it's so rich it coughs and sputters and won't keep running at idle, turn the needle in a 1/4 turn at a time until it does. If it's so lean it screems and doesn't want to slow down, open the needle a bunch and start over. If you have a low speed needle on the carb turn it way out so it's not confusing the situation.

Once you get it to idle properly try opening the throttle briefly, it should hesitate for a second before clearing out and revving up. If it cleans out immediately it's too lean, real slow or never it's rich.

Once you get there it's ready to go on the water with a small prop and long pipe, try to run consistent laps nice and rich for the first coupla tanks. Motor should "hickup" or miss a beat several times down the straight.

When it comes in grab the top of the cylinder, you should only be able to hold it for a few seconds. If it's too cold you'll just wear it out instead of breaking it in (and have to over lean it to make it go) so restrict the water in some way to get the temp up.

When you bring it in after each run pull the plug out and turn it over by hand to see how tight it is at TDC, don't lean it down until it starts to loosen up or you'll hurt it. :(

It may take a gallon or more through it until it's ready to work so be patient. When it's ready a good needle will still be slightly on the rich side with a "hickup" or two down the straight. :)

Oh ya, what Brad said on the plug.

There ya go, done my typing for the day! :lol:

ps: What part of the world ru in?
 
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thanks for advice guys...I plan to run it this saturday. I am in Western Australia....basically in the middle of nowhere, the heat is pretty much in the 30's most of the time.

I will wind the needle out 3 turns, move the arm on the needle valve our to a neutral position and see how it starts. I will follow this advice....in fact I have printed this out and will be taking it to the lake!!

Shane.
 
Hey Shane:

I'll answer your pm here, maybe help someone else.

Turn the needle out quite a bit (to make sure it's not bottoming) then screw the outter housing with the arm all the way in. I would set the radio up with that as the full lean setting or close to that as long as the fitting is where you want it (make sure the servo doesn't stall).

Then back the mixture servo off to the mid setting, turn the main needle in all the way and open it 3 turns (your plug wrench fits it). The arm should move about 90* full throw.

My flow meter is in pieces for a retro fit or I'd check that "3 turns" setting, anyone else got a good starting needle for a guy in the boonies? :unsure:

ps: what kinda boat you running? Got any pix? Sometimes we could spot something to help your first time out. :)
 
I hope that the needle setting advice is the same for a guy in the boonies as in the city :unsure: :) I'll be out running full rich at about 30mph thinking I am smokin it...thinking...6 turns out full rich isnt working.....with no one to tell me otherwise :lol:

I am running a yellow seaducer SD3 40 mono...set up EXACTLY the way Jerry suggested. I am talking to the milimetre! everything on the set up list to the typ of mini servo I bought...so it should be all good.

I'll have to take my time to with the needle setting...we'll see how we go. Great advice and I hope someone else can benefit form this in the future...I searched and found nada....

Thanks again. Any idea where I can buy a decent on board flow metre?
 
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Good morning, or I guess I should say g'day. :lol:

You'll have fun with the SD3, Jerry makes some of the fastest boats on the planet!

Not sure if you meant "on board flowmeter" or not, it's used in the pits to set up and keep track of needle settings. The "old school" kind is what Brad mentioned and uses a propane bottle to check fuel flow through the needle and carb, the newer style is the "blood pressure" type like what Boris sells.

Here's a shot of mine (currently being re-done :) ):

normal_Flowmeter_004.jpg


normal_Flowmeter_003.jpg
 
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