Hydro Junkie
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2006
- Messages
- 5,806
Please tell me you're going to reverse those rudder bracket screws and use shorter ones. Having screws that long can cause issues later
They will not be reversed, but the screws will be cut shorter. There would be no issues with the long screws except that it looks crappy. There is very little room on the inside for nuts, so instead the screws are reversed as the allen cap screw heads are very low profile.Please tell me you're going to reverse those rudder bracket screws and use shorter ones. Having screws that long can cause issues later
Blind nuts are Crap for things like rudders & struts,,, they work themselves loose too easily, the metal they are made of is too soft.I normally use blind nuts rather than standard nuts when it comes to brackets with tight clearances
That's why I don't use the blind nuts you buy at Tower or the LHS. I use stainless steel ones from Seattle Screw since they are much stronger and won't rust out like the Dubro ones will. I also glue them in with epoxy, followed by encapsulating them so that they can't back out without breaking the epoxy. It's all about prop weight and reducing it as much as possible
Thanks, was gonna ask about that.Hey Craig,
I use Dave Brown products - Fiberglass Pushrod System tubes (or a piece of any fiberglass tubing, 1/4" ID) through the transom to drain the after compartment , and a 1/4" hole through the hull bottom in the port rear corner of the engine compartment to drain the forward areas at speed, an after run to pour out any residual water. My hulls a Wood Over Foam using the same Dow Chemical Styrofoam Steve builds into his glass hull for flotation.
Not recommended for FE hulls, Ron. Will cause grey, wispy clouds of expensive smoke. New usage for the term: "KaBoom".
Auto bailers are over rated IMHO. CHEERS !!! Bob
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