Search results

Thanks Mike. Just found them. I'll keep an eye on that auction. Appreciate it! -Mitch

Hey Ronnie, PM sent. Thanks, -Mitch

Yeah that's the one. You have one laying around?

Anybody guys? I know somebody has to have one stashed away in an old toolbox somewhere. An Irwin 7.5 stamped pipe would work as well. Also in the market for an Irwin stamped 3.5 pipe too. Let me know what you guys have. Thanks! -Mitch

There was a link somewhere for the Technopower outboard crank that's supposed to be a direct bolt in for the 14mm 16.8 stroke Nova Rossis. Maybe somebody on here still has the link. Edit: I think this is the crank here that fits it...

As the title says, looking for an outboard "j-pipe", either the .45 or .67 pipe. Let me know what you have. Thanks, -Mitch

Live from SOWEGA at Kim's Big Pond: Good ol' southern cookout at the pond followed up by racing under the lights. I'm seeing smoke on the water. The Summer Outboard Shootout is soon to commence.

What Brad said. A 1450 or x450 detongued should put you in a pretty good prop range for that combo. -Mitch

Hey Ron, Any info as to the performance impact from from initial beta tests of the engine and the offset carb? Also any idea if this offset carb configuration will be incorporated into the outboards? Thanks, -Mitch

Depends on your pipe. The Nova Salisbury pipe likes a prop around 47mm. An Equi on the same motor will run something more in the 50mm range. -Mitch

There should be a cutout just in front of the transom where the tank should drop down in the hull. I don't recall what size is in mine but if a 12 oz won't fit use a 10 oz with a hooper tank stacked on top. The hull itself should hold the tank in pretty tight but for a little added security you...

I use a single Futaba s9351 in my mod 7.5 Shaman. Been using it for years in the boat. By far the best servo I've ever purchased. People say use the 1/4 scale servos or use two standards because you need more torque than that but you really don't. Mine works flawless. -Mitch

Can it be purchased with the original sleeve instead of buying it as a seperate added up charge? I can't remember when I've ever said, "Whoa, that's too fast." Haha -Mitch

Okay so to throw a curve ball into this discussion, if we've established that in regards to hydrodynamics, polished/smooth is drag and something along the lines of 220 grit is optimal, could this also be applied to the internals of our engines as well? Everyone talks of polishing ports and...

Same, minus the 20 rigger, just looking for tunnel props. That 70mph 20 tunnel SAW prop or one like it would be nice. Haha. Just shot you a pm Kris. Let me know what you've got. -Mitch

Recently been getting into doing some of my own prop work when I thought of an aspect that I hadn't really considered before, prop finish. With something turning at 30,000rpms, I feel like that's an important discussion. When I think of a prop surface, I relate it to sanding on the bottoms of...

There's always gotta be at least one black sheep in the family ay Kris? Haha -Jr

I'd go with a Lawless, threaded for an O.S. propshaft because the K&B shaft assemblies tend to wear out pretty fast. You can get one of these in that configuration directly from Fred at Lawless. As John said, the Lawless is light weight and a much slimmer sub surface area than the O.S. -Mitch

Thanks Wally! Yeah I couldn't find them at the local hobby shop so I ordered a pack from McMaster-Carr. Much appreciated. Thanks guys, -Mitch

Nothing in particular Dave. Just getting into prop work here recently and just in case I screw something up, I want to be able to go back. Lol -Mitch