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I prefer to make my own rudder out of 1/16” stainless. I have found that a blade type rudder has less drag than a wedge rudder. The issue I have is that after silver brazing, the stainless blade is kind of annealed. If I pull hard in a turn, the rudder will bend at the joint. Is there anyway I...

It looks like a Tom's Cat from Octura. It was released in two versions. A glass version and a wood kit. This one looks like it was built from the wood kit

I started putting the rudder on the port side for two reasons. First, as Mark said, I want to pull on the rudder to turn right. Second reason is that by putting the rudder on the left, I am hoping it will balance the drag from the turn fin thereby minimizing the left trim or strut offset to...

A general question on head clearance or deck height. Can too tight a clearance reduce power?

I have built a .20 size Dumas Drag'N Fli as an outboard in the 80's. I had a JG E20 and also a F22 on the K&B. It just would not run properly without kicking in the lower. Your OS looked to have zero angle. What is the secret to getting the kneeler to plane properly? Did you have to add a...

I, too, think a X450/3 is too much prop for the P-45 at 1/2" below the vee. But based on the recommendation of everyone who posted, I will try it on my next trip to the pond. I am really surprised that it can turn the X458 and really scream. k

I want to reduce the OD of a length of 13/32 brass tubing that I have without sanding it. I figured if I use a tube cutter but replace the blade with a roller, I may be able to shrink the OD just enough. I did it manually first but it works much better when I Chuck it in a drill. It worked...

I use a MAC pipe with a flat band. I am conservative on pipe length. I started at 10.75" from the plug to the middle of the flat band. I whittled it down to 10.25" turning a X458. The P-45 is asking for more. From the picture, you have the strut deeper than my set up (1/2"). I guess it...

It looks like a Picco muffled pipe to me. I have a Picco .67 muffled pipe and it looks there same. Only bigger I have the same Picco P45 in a Prather Aggressor. With the prop at 1/2” below the vee, the P45 has no problem swinging a X548. I am going to try a X450/3 on my next trip to the pond...

Hi Mark, at 1/2” below the vee, wouldn’t the prop put more load on the engine? I use X450 and X648 on a sport 40. And I automatically reach for a smaller prop in a sub-surface setup. But I will try a 450 next weekend The X548 has more pitch than a 450. So I can expect slower top speed...

Hi Rick, I have a X450 and I am planning to try that next week. Hi Frank, i do not have the tool nor the skills to cup a prop. I can sharpen and balance my own props quite well. I will leave cupping to the pros. The x548 appears to have smaller blade area than a 450. But the former has more...

By sub-surface, I mean the center line of the shaft being 1/2" below the vee. What would be a good Octura prop to start? I have a X548 on it right now. I am surprised the old P-45 is asking for more! The prop at 1/2" below the vee should be putting more load on the engine. Since the P-45 is...

I have some 3/8" K&S tubes and tried to install it this afternoon. The tuned pipe exhaust ID is just undersized. I do not want to drill it out. Is there anyway I can 'expand" the ID or 'shrink' the OD of the K&S tube? I am not a machinist but I do know a brass or aluminum tube can be drawn...

The nice thing about Klass Kote is that its catalyst is compatible with K&B superpoxy and Hobbypoxy. If you have left over color (part A), you can mix it with Klass Kote catalyst. I tried that and can confirm it works

Thanks Rick and Chris for your replies. Exactly the information I need to get started. The only thing I am not sure is whether JB Weld will hold up. Years ago I tried using JB Weld to glue an aluminum ring around the exhaust stub to keep the tuned pipe coupler from slipping. The JB Weld...

I find the Prather muffler to be too loud. Read about internal stinger on this forum. I am thinking of adding an internal stinger and still use an after muffler. Did a search but couldn't find the thread. I am going to try it on a Picco P-45. It is a Mac .45 pipe. What size tubing do I...

Hi Mark and Robert, I incorrectly called the oscillating saw as a reciprocating saw in my first post. The Chicago Electric saw is exactly the saw i used. It is inexpensive. Very tough and came with a blade/bit for wood, which I used to cut into the transom ply doubler. I bought a few carbide...

I bought a cheap HF oscillating saw (I used the wrong name in my post above by calling it a recipricating saw) and cut groves in the ply doubler. Then I insert a screw driver into the slots to break the ply off in small sections. Then I used the same oscillating saw with a carbide sanding bit...

the engine in the picture has a one piece crankcase with front intake and rear exhaust. The only 7.5 with this configuration (one piece case) is the O/B red head and the pro. But those have square fins. I have never seen a 7.5 like the one in the picture.

I have just completed restoring a .40 vee. I was able to remove the transom ply doubler using a reciprocating saw. It was a lot of work but worth it. I then epoxied a new 3/16" ply with a 6 Oz cloth between the transom and the doubler. I then filled the old holes on the outside with a...