- Joined
- May 21, 2006
- Messages
- 1,828
Great photos Mario and very nice narrative of the build, hands down one of the best I've read lately
First, the tuned pipe trick: This was a neat little tip I picked up from Stu Barr himself. Get yourself a plumber's swaging tool from Amazon for around $21. This is what I use to expand the pipes, along with some heat from a torch. This process takes a while, generally around 45 minutes per pipe for me. However the results speak for themselves. I haven't ruptured a single coupler in the last 5 years I've been doing this.Thanks Mario for the pics and overview of your build. Couple of questions: Can you explain how you were able to modify the CMB pipe to telescope over the header. Also I see you angled the engine to eliminate the S bend in the stuffing tube that many people don't care for! Did you find this to be an improvement? Lastly can share some of the pipe length's you used to run the 2219/2319 props. Thanks Tim, Great post.
Hi Mario. On the engine placement that is 16" from center of the case to the back of the transom correct?Day one, kit arrives. Laying out parts and taking inventory to understand what I have and where things go. Decided to power the boat with a CMB V5 45 and CMB pipe.
Opted not to change much on the kit as this is my first 40 boat build and I've given myself a deadline of 3 months to get the boat finished and ready to race.
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Day 2, laminated both tub wall pieces together, established engine location with center 16" from transom, 7° angle, being sure to leave enough room for the belt to slip under the flywheel once boat is fired up. Also taking the time to use my shaft alignment tool to establish through hole locations for the bulkhead and radio box floor.
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Mock up of tub walls in place, bulkheads, boom tube reinforcement, etc.
Decided to use StumpFab engine mounts. The grommets are wider than the tub walls, so I'm adding additional reinforcement on either side of the rails to account for this.
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Also beginning to epoxy sponson side skins in place, using the aluminum pins as an alignment tool.
Correct, that's 16" from the motors casing center to the transom.Hi Mario. On the engine placement that is 16" from center of the case to the back of the transom correct?
I was doing that same measurement on a 45 SGX tub just for the heck of it and the engine is 5 1/2"farther forward on the SGX. It's amazing how different the two design concepts are.
Yeah they are definitely different schools of thought when it comes to design. Thank you for the info. I appreciate it.Correct, that's 16" from the motors casing center to the transom.
I always think it's fascinating how boats can have such different schools of thought in terms of design and still be equally competitive in the same arenas.
where can i buy a muffler like yours? thanksStart to finish Build of my JAE 45 outrigger,
June 23rd - Sept 10th.
Posting images in hopes that someone out there may be able to use these images as inspiration and instruction for building one of these fantastic hulls. Thanks for looking!
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Stump Fab, they're Eagle SGX cowl locks on the sitewhere did you get the cowling hold downs ?
Needle is one of Stu Barr's set ups that I had laying aroundWhat 3rd channel needle did you use?
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