Zenoah Glow fuel eng?

[Terry Keeley]

Looks good, it looks more like the current pipes instead of the long cone "hot pipes". Who's program did you use?

Run the stinger into the dead band area (internal) and you might not need a muffler.

 

[Jeff Lutz]

Used the compound set at 3.5*
It only moves 2.5" so you have to do it in 2 moves. Not to hard after you get the hang of it.
Lots of chatter when the bar is all the way out for the last move on the inside.
I could make it all from aluminum but then that would not be as trick as a hybrid CF pipe.
This will be my last build for some time so pulling out all the cards.
Just got a traier and going on the road for a few years to see the USA.
Got me a hot date with a Golden Trout...........................................

Carbide boring bars will about eliminate the chatter. Wrap rubber bungee cords around the outside of the aluminum while cutting the ID will help big time. Jeff

 

[dwilfong]

Looks good. Run the stinger into the dead band area (internal) and you might not need a muffler.

Yes that is one of the options I was thinking of. It may work out best because it will hold the stinger in place as I wrap the pipe.
The only question is the stinger length in the program is 3.5" it is the same as the rear cone.
So that would make the stinger longer than it should be by doing that.

 

[LohringMiller]

Stinger length isn't particularly critical. An internal stinger needs to end somewhere in the belly section. We tested internal and external stingers using the same screw in stingers. There wasn't any power difference.

Lohring Miller

 

[dwilfong]

Looks good. Who's program did you use?

Run the stinger into the dead band area (internal) and you might not need a muffler.

I will post a link to the free download for the program. Most all programs use the same math just diffrent formats to load the info.
I think the internal will be the way to go.

 

[dwilfong]

Stinger length isn't particularly critical. An internal stinger needs to end somewhere in the belly section. We tested internal and external stingers using the same screw in stingers. There wasn't any power difference.

Lohring Miller

Than you for the info. Will use the internal stinger with enough sticking out to wrap on to then a little to mount it with a lollypop.

 

[Terry Keeley]

Be sure to add a "pee" hole inside near the end to clear excess fuel in the pipe or if it gets dunked.

 

[dwilfong]

Well here it is.
Went with the internal stinger as it solve 2 different problems.
Now it dose not need a muffler and it can be held steady in the lathe when I go to wrap it.
Will leave it in the lathe as pictured and spin the lathe by hand to lay it up.
Will make a few more tweaks.
A weep hole on the stinger and some groves on the stinger and lead in pipe for the resin to get a bite on.
This went way better than I thought.
Well it ain't over till its wrapped up.
Got my fingers crossed it goes as planed.
Now that the pipe is mocked up I can start on the header.

 

[dwilfong]

http://birdcagesoft.com/This is the page for the down load look for the 2T exhaust calculator on the top left of the page and fallow the links.
Also has some U tube video to explain how to use it.

 

[Ray Sametz]

Dave, maybe you could incorporate the pressure fitting before you wrap it.

 

[Wasted wages]

Once you wrap it and cure the resin, will the wax melt out at the same time or does it take a higher temp?

How much difference between the cure temp of the resin and melt point of the wax ??

 

[dwilfong]

Once you wrap it and cure the resin, will the wax melt out at the same time or does it take a higher temp?

How much difference between the cure temp of the resin and melt point of the wax ??

It has to cure at 250* for 4 Hr.
I will do a melt test with the wax and see what it dose at 250*
If it dose not melt then I will turn it up to see how much it takes.
After it cures I can heat it all I want to up to 600* the wax will melt then.....LOL

 

[dwilfong]

Dave, maybe you could incorporate the pressure fitting before you wrap it.

I will drill the hole.
Would be a pain in the *** to wrap around the fitting.

 

[Terry Keeley]

You gonna use CF tow and wrap it around?

What about braid?

https://www.sollercomposites.com/CarbonSleeves.html

 

[dwilfong]

You gonna use CF tow and wrap it around?

What about braid?

https://www.sollercomposites.com/CarbonSleeves.html

I got the 1" plain weave tape from sollar Composites.
But it has tials on the sides of the tape.
I want to use tape just have to find some plain weave with out the tails on the side.
I like the idea of plain weave not screeching. That way I can keep tension on it as I wrap it using the lath.
I do not want to play with vacuum bagging it.
I have a vacuum pump and can make a setup easy just do not want to mess with it.
I am old school.
I like to hand lay up my epoxy.
have a little experience doing it.

 

[Terry Keeley]

 

[dwilfong]

The problem is I am going from 5/8 to 2.6" no CF tubing or shrink tube makes that much of a transition.
Easy if it is a strait tube not so much like what I have.
Let me look and se how many types would be needed to make this much transition.
May be able to do it in 2 different sections.

 

[dwilfong]

I was playing with the lathe to day and had a brain storm...........O CRAP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
On my lath I have a lever on the back gear set to change the direction of the drive bar.
So I left it loose and tried to change directions with it running.
And my my amazement it work very smooth.
So I set the speeds and engaged the treading lever then shifted the drive bar in to gear. ran it one way and then reversed it.
It works killer.
SO may gust hook up a fishing reel on the tool holder set the drag and do some test runs with mono on the pipe mold.
Tyler thank you for the idea.
Will see if it will pan out.

 

[dwilfong]

Well forget that..............
Stacked up the gears and had the tool post hauling *** down the ways with it in back gear....................................
So got some string and tried to let it wrap around the mold.
Needles to say wax dose not have much grip and the string gust slid down the back cone and piled up.
So nix the strand wrap on a wax pipe mold.
Don't know if you don't try.......................................

 

[RaceMechaniX]

Try spraying the wax with 3M super 77 to give it some tack.