X mono hulls

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Wayne,

I have been racing the hydros for a long time now myself but just recently played with an old Twin Craft for gas powered racing so that I could play toy boats with the locals and teach some driving tips to my nephew. As it turned out, the boat was too wild for the big motor and prop so I played with different things over the last two years. The boat is just so much fun to run when it is on the edge! It got me excited again so I put some work into it. I widened the hull and that helped but as Ian said.......changing the downforce on the deck helped even more. I didn't change the shape of the deck but added a large spoiler at the windshield. It does keep the boat on the water. I changed hardware setup and the boat competes well now. I extended the strut so the prop does not lift the boat out of the water as much. Just glad to see someone else enjoying the boat.

I remember when I sent the first boat down under decades ago and I got a call saying someone popped a mold on your boat. Can't hardly blame anyone for that with all the shipping costs and duties etc people have to pay to get a boat down there. I think it cost something like $500.00 to get to the door step for a $175.00 boat. That was crazy.
 
More background on the boat........I designed the first one as a twin nitro boat because there were none available and I wanted one. Hense the name Twin Craft. I won US-1 with it 1985 or 1986 I think it was and then set the oval record with it. It was huge at 56 inches and everyone called it a bathtub boat. Folks wanted me to come up with another boat for a single so I did that with the 46 inch boat. We ran .45 tp .90 engines in the hull. They were great cornering boats and top speeds were about 50 mph at the time. I did not want to create a business to sell boats and made a deal with the local hobby shop to get them built and he would sell them to the folks that wanted them. That didn't work out as a partnership so I took on selling the boats for the next 5 years. I gave the molds to Steve Speas about 1990 when I went through a divorce. He made the Twin Crafts for about 10 years until he went through a divorce. He lived in PA. but returned to his home town in Mechanicsville, Va, When he moved back to Virginia he had no place to put the molds so they sat in my shed for a long time and he said get rid of them he was not going to be building boats anymore. They got picked up by a guy out West, maybe Iowa. I can't remember his name right off the top of my head. I havn't heard anything about the boats since except that he may have gone through a divorce. Looks like divorce follows those boats so beware! LOL.
 
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If you want to try something different and is a good looking hull try the "New" MicroBurst. They are fast and they heat race really good,the MicroBurst won US-1 in 20 mono,60 mono,and 90 mono (XXX-mono:) at the last US-1 Nat's that were held in Charleston S.C.

I do not own a 45 MB now but use to own one and that one also won a US-1 several years ago,and they are strong boats all of them. JMO
 
More background on the boat........I designed the first one as a twin nitro boat because there were none available and I wanted one. Hense the name Twin Craft. I won US-1 with it 1985 or 1996 I think it was and then set the oval record with it. It was huge at 56 inches and everyone called it a bathtub boat. Folks wanted me to come up with another boat for a single so I did that with the 46 inch boat. We ran .45 tp .90 engines in the hull. They were great cornering boats and top speeds were about 50 mph at the time. I did not want to create a business to sell boats and made a deal with the local hobby shop to get them built and he would sell them to the folks that wanted them. That didn't work out as a partnership so I took on selling the boats for the next 5 years. I gave the molds to Steve Speas about 1990 when I went through a divorce. He made the Twin Crafts for about 10 years until he went through a divorce. He lived in PA. but returned to his home town in Mechanicsville, Va, When he moved back to Virginia he had no place to put the molds so they sat in my shed for a long time and he said get rid of them he was not going to be building boats anymore. They got picked up by a guy out West, maybe Iowa. I can't remember his name right off the top of my head. I havn't heard anything about the boats since except that he may have gone through a divorce. Looks like divorce follows those boats so beware! LOL.
John that was a good read haha..
 
If you want to try something different and is a good looking hull try the "New" MicroBurst. They are fast and they heat race really good,the MicroBurst won US-1 in 20 mono,60 mono,and 90 mono (XXX-mono:) at the last US-1 Nat's that were held in Charleston S.C.

I do not own a 45 MB now but use to own one and that one also won a US-1 several years ago,and they are strong boats all of them. JMO
Stan you know what a microburst is the hull I really want ,I have wanted one for years but being in australia it is a tad costly a 45" microburst mono would be great.

David
 
Hi John a great bit you have written here and got a chuckle out of it too. I am putting the boat together actual for wife and my 2 girls for them to mess with and a nitro version to replace the original twin craft I got with all the other stuff , the original has the label in it so it's the real deal lol but a very sad state , wild bunch x mono,s lol. Funny as it seems I had another hull it was new laying around doing nothing and kept thinking about building it up but was never turned on by them, and a buddy local was trying to get a gas rigger set up and had nothing but troubles with it and was absolutely pissed off with it and asked me what's wrong with it, took a look at the set up of it and told him to pull the gear out of it get your saw out and cutt the bad **** out and see what you can fit in the trash whilst I'm gone, few minutes later I'm back with the new hull radio box and said its yours build it you have more fun with this. It's got a zenoha in it stock goes well but it's like a b.a.d boat stand on the gas hard and nothing but attitude, i did ask him about how it turns, said nothing bad to say of it . I do remember the article in the late 80's re your twin ops 80's in the boat modeler mag , long time ago now , often think of doing a twin powered for ***** and giggles just to see what can be had out of it. No divorce's here wife knows its my hobby before she came along , keep me out of trouble too, lol
 
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On the twin I found I could only run one tenth of an inch more pitch than on the singles. While the counter rotaion was something new to experiment with back then it was found that the boats would cine walk in a slow action because there was no force to hold the boat in any position. The regular rotation worked fine I ran dual rudders just outside the props to get linear turning. The trailing edge of the props just ahead of the leading edge of the rudder. Another workable setup was a single rudder in the center of the transom but about 8 inches from the transom to get the leverage needed to turn the boat. I eventually designed a 48 inch boat that handled twin 80s really nice and it was surface drive right out the transom. The boat was an inch wider too. When the boat banked for the turn the left prop got pleanty of water off the keel spray to keep the left prop loaded. That was an awesome boat, but still not faster than a single 80 boat.

John
 
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I think if you were to develop a hull for twin nitro,s I would be inclined to do a shallower vee & possibly a variable dead rise to give more stability in turns, your thoughts John?
 
What actually worked very well was this..............i put a 46 inch boat through the bandsaw bow to transom cutting the boat into two halves. I then took two one inch pieces of the center of a 56 inch boat and glassed them into the center of the 46 inch boat making the boat wider and longer. Same vee angle 19.5 degrees. I have found that 21 degree vees are best in most of my testing. That is the angle I used fir the 20 boat, which is still very competitive. I also made less of a warped plane bottom in the 20 boat with the chine not coming up as fast as the 46 inch boat and it worked better. Basically the 20 boat is an improvement over the 46 and 42 inch boats. The fast climbing chine line helps to make the boat less wet in the cornering but also causes issues when you get more weight in the boat. I made a 48 inch twin with more vee and the bow center hull section at the keel would bite too hard in the corners because of the extra weight forward. I think if you do a twin I would keep a 19.5 to a 21 degree vee and extend the chine line parallel to the keel more forward on the hull before bringing it up so as to support the hull while cornering. Less of a warped plane bottom. Most any hull will go in a straight line, but getting the cornering to be linear is what I like to have. Don't want a mono darting in the corners causing accidents. Darting usually happens when the vee is too deep in the water forward of the CG. Rounding the keel helps but if it is too narrow or the chine rises too fast forward of the CG the boat can be darty and spin out.

John
 
nice info. best running twin mono ive seen was a twin 45" microburst. with the 25deg V it used relatively small x467's to do it. with the props even with the keel the angle allows clean water to the props. needed more boat tho. i think the new 51 would work....i dont like monos but this thread got me thinkin
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Fastest big mono I ever saw was at the Orlando race and this was a long time ago, around '96. It was a Maus, looked to be around 52-55". Had a Quickdraw in it. Lapped everyone in 6 lap heats and also lapped everone in offshore. It ate rough water for lunch.
 
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John , so it seem like it would fall back to the trial and error department , lots of r&d time to get the boat working good .

In the subject of twin engined monos I would assume the shafts would need to be sub surface set up to get good drive .
 
If you want to try something different and is a good looking hull try the "New" MicroBurst. They are fast and they heat race really good,the MicroBurst won US-1 in 20 mono,60 mono,and 90 mono (XXX-mono:) at the last US-1 Nat's that were held in Charleston S.C.

I do not own a 45 MB now but use to own one and that one also won a US-1 several years ago,and they are strong boats all of them. JMO
Stan do you know the vee angle On the older microburst monos before the newer 45" and 51" monos or are they the same I have read 25'degrees.

David
 
John , so it seem like it would fall back to the trial and error department , lots of r&d time to get the boat working good .

In the subject of twin engined monos I would assume the shafts would need to be sub surface set up to get good drive .
Wayne,

I ran drives both ways. Having the struts under the hull lifted the boat high out of the water while having them come out the transom let the boat settle to the water for better control. One thing I did not try, which is popular now, is to run the props far behind the transom. If you did that you would most likely need to extend the rudder as well. Trial and error........empirical testing is what the scientists call it. I call it lots of hard work.
 
One thing I did not try, which is popular now, is to run the props far behind the transom. If you did that you would most likely need to extend the rudder as well.
John, what is your opinion of this trend? I have always thought that moving the prop back would give it more leverage on the hull with lift and prop walk etc?
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John , so it seem like it would fall back to the trial and error department , lots of r&d time to get the boat working good .

In the subject of twin engined monos I would assume the shafts would need to be sub surface set up to get good drive .
One thing I did not try, which is popular now, is to run the props far behind the transom. If you did that you would most likely need to extend the rudder as well. Trial and error........empirical testing is what the scientists call it. I call it lots of hard work.
"far behind" as in a typical outdrive set-up (ie. 1.5in - 2.0in)?
 
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