What glow plugs for a NovaRossi T .21 5 port?

[Paul Traufler]

Well guys it has been a long time since I used a glow plug, so I'm going to run a NovaRossi T .21 5 port and I want to know what glow plugs to get. I know K&B amd McCoy have been around a long time, not sure what else is out there now. Long/short reach? Idle bar? Heat range? Thanks for the help.

 

[John Knight]

McCoy 9 or the O'Donnell 9 if you want to run with 40% nitro or higher %. No idle bar is needed or desired.

 

[steve wood]

Well guys it has been a long time since I used a glow plug, so I'm going to run a NovaRossi T .21 5 port and I want to know what glow plugs to get. I know K&B amd McCoy have been around a long time, not sure what else is out there now. Long/short reach? Idle bar? Heat range? Thanks for the help.

reduce the water volume and run a k&b 1l. mc9's are too cold

 

[Paul Traufler]

Well guys it has been a long time since I used a glow plug, so I'm going to run a NovaRossi T .21 5 port and I want to know what glow plugs to get. I know K&B amd McCoy have been around a long time, not sure what else is out there now. Long/short reach? Idle bar? Heat range? Thanks for the help.

reduce the water volume and run a k&b 1l. mc9's are too cold

 

[Paul Traufler]

Steve, "reduce water volume" I do not understand what this is. I assume it is the water cooling to the motor. Well the list of things to know/understand is growing...

 

[bzubee]

MC-9's Or O'donnel blue from Phils Hobbies Ft Wayne, IN Mail order or special sale on Tower hobbies.

Well guys it has been a long time since I used a glow plug, so I'm going to run a NovaRossi T .21 5 port and I want to know what glow plugs to get. I know K&B amd McCoy have been around a long time, not sure what else is out there now. Long/short reach? Idle bar? Heat range? Thanks for the help.

 

[carlnoki]

Paul;

Take a wheel collar (3/16ths should work)and put it over the water cooling line just above the water nipple

on the rudder. Adjust the set screw so that when you blow through it, you get very little air flow through the line.

Glow plugs: O'Donnell red and purple sport plugs for cold to cool water temp. O'Donell Purple and Blue sport plug for

cool to very warm water temp. (not to mention air temp.)

This will get you started.

Carl

 

[steve wood]

Steve, "reduce water volume" I do not understand what this is. I assume it is the water cooling to the motor. Well the list of things to know/understand is growing...

you need a water jacket with a smaller volume than stock. make one or buy one from orlic or one of the other guys that make them

 

[Glenn Quarles]

Steve, "reduce water volume" I do not understand what this is. I assume it is the water cooling to the motor. Well the list of things to know/understand is growing...

Paul, the stock head with reduced water flow (I use a needle valve in the water line, but the wheel collar works great too) works great for 95% of us. If you want to reduce the volume of water in the head you can remove the head , set it upside down and fill it with JB Weld up to the point where the water comes in. If you can really optimize your boat and motor setup you may find the additional power from one of Frank's head (he build really nice stuff...I have never used on of his heads, but the other things I have from him are great).

As you may know it is very important to try to get the motor up to operating temp while you are breaking it in. This means little/no water...you should have it running rich enough to keep it cool for the first few runs.

Glenn

 

[Paul Traufler]

I understand now, it is all about heat in the motor. I can see if too much water flow goes in the heat of the motor will drop and so will performance. Looks like a good many variables to deal with on this also, speed, water flow, water temps., air temps., motor needle settings, load on motor just to name a few off the top of my head. I guess the "fast guys" test a great deal and then in the end go with the best results they have.

Thanks guys, the more I read the more I learn... ok I forget something else also...

 

[Jim Mamaril]

Steve, "reduce water volume" I do not understand what this is. I assume it is the water cooling to the motor. Well the list of things to know/understand is growing...

Paul, the stock head with reduced water flow (I use a needle valve in the water line, but the wheel collar works great too) works great for 95% of us. If you want to reduce the volume of water in the head you can remove the head , set it upside down and fill it with JB Weld up to the point where the water comes in. If you can really optimize your boat and motor setup you may find the additional power from one of Frank's head (he build really nice stuff...I have never used on of his heads, but the other things I have from him are great).

As you may know it is very important to try to get the motor up to operating temp while you are breaking it in. This means little/no water...you should have it running rich enough to keep it cool for the first few runs.

Glenn

Glenn, What kind of head temps do you reccomend for break in as well as normal running??

Jim

 

[chuck st romain]

on one of my rossi outboards the water exit is capped off and a small hole drilled in the top surface of the water jacket to limit the water exiting the head. i didnt do it but it seems to work well as not much water comes out. i also would like to know what a good running tempature is and how it can be checked accutatly due to all the splash cooling the exterior surfaces.

 

[Paul Traufler]

Based on the car guys a .21 should be in the 200-220 deg F range on the top of the head around the plug. (NOT the outside water jacket I would add.) Most of the car guys use a IR "point and shoot" meter. You know one of the gun like units that puts a small laser spot on the surface it takes the IR reading from to get temp. Ok with a air cooled large heatsink motor it is much easier to get the temp.. I have a small device that has a sensor and readout to measure temp, it is placed onboard and will give you the current, min, max temps. The unit came from the car side of the world, runs about $20 and in NOT waterproof.

 

[Glenn Quarles]

Guys, I alway use the tried and true "finger touch"...you should be able to touch the head (water jacket) without getting burned, but should not be able to kep your finger on it for more than a second or so. This puts the temp in the 180 - 200 degree range I think. When breaking in a new motor I have a hard time getting it this warm even with no water at all...if it is getting to warm you may not be rich enough.

With OB's I have always had the best luck with no water at all. The lower unit is a huge heatsink and of course you have all of the splashing going on. You may find you need to shoot a little water on the header where it comes off the motor.

Glenn

 

[Paul Traufler]

Glenn, the 180-200 range is WAY to hot for the "finger test". Most people can take 130-150 "wet" heat (ie HOT water) for 1-2 sec but it is too hot for most, but the dry heat test is really a tuff call. Actual moisture in the skin is the main trouble spot. If you touch the water cooled head for 1-2 sec and pull away AND your finger was dry the temp is more like ~150. Now this being said the other side of the water cooled head is hotter for sure. I do not see a good way to get the head temps, perhaps others know of a way?

 

[Glenn Quarles]

Glenn, the 180-200 range is WAY to hot for the "finger test". Most people can take 130-150 "wet" heat (ie HOT water) for 1-2 sec but it is too hot for most, but the dry heat test is really a tuff call. Actual moisture in the skin is the main trouble spot. If you touch the water cooled head for 1-2 sec and pull away AND your finger was dry the temp is more like ~150. Now this being said the other side of the water cooled head is hotter for sure. I do not see a good way to get the head temps, perhaps others know of a way?

Paul, that is good info as to what temp the finger test gives...but what ever it is the motor likes it.

Glenn

 

[Paul Traufler]

Glenn, I like emperical testing myself, it is simple, easy and can have pretty good results also. But the engineer in me always tells me to measure it with calibrated test hardware and reproduce the test results to know your methods are correct. Like I have the time for that! I like the finger test, if it is too hot I'm sure there is a built in alarm system that kicks in and yells out some 4 letter words so all will know your runn'n hot!

 

[moparbarn]

other than onboard telemetry, the ir heat gun is prolly the "cheapestbestest" way the check temps. the main drawback is that while slowing down coming into shore, you are losing way more heat than you might think. if you can see 200 at the head after grabbing the boat & getting a reading as fast as you can, you're more than likely seeing 240 + while running. a few boaters that have run the nomadio system with onboard telemetry have told me as much. i don't care for the touch method, either. too subjective & dependent on what you do for a living. i'm a mechanic for a living, what's hot to an office worker may only seem warm to my calloused hands. btw, go run down the interstate for 15 to 20 miles, stop, jump out , raise the hood of your car & lay your hand on the radiator. that's close to 180 to 200, as most cars run between 180 to 195. think about how hot that would feel......

 

[Paul Traufler]

Interesting idea Moparbarn, we need a calibrated finger now also! While I'm not suggesting we risk life and limb to test motor heat I'm sure there are some smart folks out there that have done this and will jump in with suggestions. Telemetry or at least a data logger may be the way to go, some of that stuff gets rather costly and may prove to be too much trouble.

 

[Paul Traufler]

This is the temp. probe I have used on a car and another project. It worked ok, but it is NOT waterproof. Finding a place to mount the temp probe may prove to be a problem also, this was made for aircooled heads.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHEM4