WATERPROOFING MY SCALE HYDRO

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(hydrojunkie quotes)..If a wood over frame boat is properly built, there is no reason for the skin to flex over the framing. This is one of the reasons I won't build a boat with CA and then coat the joints with epoxy after the fact. Epoxy won't penetrate a joint that is held together by CA, so those joints will, in my opinion, always be suseptible to failing due to the brittle nature of CA .......CA pentrates deeper into the wood then epoxy. Some reson why they crack is CA wont flex and epoxy will flex. Oh HJ it also depend on what CA your using too.. Theres a flexable version out as what I was told.
Thanks to all for the replys and to you Miss Hydro, good to see a lady boater. You sound knowledgeable in construction. How many wood boats have you built ? How many scale hydros have you built ? I am currecntly building a 1/8 scale 1982 Atlas Van Lines Hydro. Could you recommend a good prop for this boat, I am using the K&B 11cc, .67 inboard.
X455/2 to start with....or possibly an X455/3.
 
(hydrojunkie quotes)..If a wood over frame boat is properly built, there is no reason for the skin to flex over the framing. This is one of the reasons I won't build a boat with CA and then coat the joints with epoxy after the fact. Epoxy won't penetrate a joint that is held together by CA, so those joints will, in my opinion, always be suseptible to failing due to the brittle nature of CA .......CA pentrates deeper into the wood then epoxy. Some reson why they crack is CA wont flex and epoxy will flex. Oh HJ it also depend on what CA your using too.. Theres a flexable version out as what I was told.
Thanks to all for the replys and to you Miss Hydro, good to see a lady boater. You sound knowledgeable in construction. How many wood boats have you built ? How many scale hydros have you built ? I am currecntly building a 1/8 scale 1982 Atlas Van Lines Hydro. Could you recommend a good prop for this boat, I am using the K&B 11cc, .67 inboard.
X455/2 to start with....or possibly an X455/3.
Thanks Duck, are those Octura props ?
 
(hydrojunkie quotes)..If a wood over frame boat is properly built, there is no reason for the skin to flex over the framing. This is one of the reasons I won't build a boat with CA and then coat the joints with epoxy after the fact. Epoxy won't penetrate a joint that is held together by CA, so those joints will, in my opinion, always be suseptible to failing due to the brittle nature of CA .......CA pentrates deeper into the wood then epoxy. Some reson why they crack is CA wont flex and epoxy will flex. Oh HJ it also depend on what CA your using too.. Theres a flexable version out as what I was told.
Thanks to all for the replys and to you Miss Hydro, good to see a lady boater. You sound knowledgeable in construction. How many wood boats have you built ? How many scale hydros have you built ? I am currecntly building a 1/8 scale 1982 Atlas Van Lines Hydro. Could you recommend a good prop for this boat, I am using the K&B 11cc, .67 inboard.
X455/2 to start with....or possibly an X455/3.
Thanks Duck, are those Octura props ?
that hull typically likes a 3 blade, makes it smoother and less flighty.

x455/457 octura

pipe at about 11 3/4 to 12"

is the motor stock or worked on?
 
(hydrojunkie quotes)..If a wood over frame boat is properly built, there is no reason for the skin to flex over the framing. This is one of the reasons I won't build a boat with CA and then coat the joints with epoxy after the fact. Epoxy won't penetrate a joint that is held together by CA, so those joints will, in my opinion, always be suseptible to failing due to the brittle nature of CA .......CA pentrates deeper into the wood then epoxy. Some reson why they crack is CA wont flex and epoxy will flex. Oh HJ it also depend on what CA your using too.. Theres a flexable version out as what I was told.
Thanks to all for the replys and to you Miss Hydro, good to see a lady boater. You sound knowledgeable in construction. How many wood boats have you built ? How many scale hydros have you built ? I am currecntly building a 1/8 scale 1982 Atlas Van Lines Hydro. Could you recommend a good prop for this boat, I am using the K&B 11cc, .67 inboard.
X455/2 to start with....or possibly an X455/3.
Thanks Duck, are those Octura props ?
that hull typically likes a 3 blade, makes it smoother and less flighty.

x455/457 octura

pipe at about 11 3/4 to 12"

is the motor stock or worked on?
This is a totally stock Dumas hull with a mod to the rear of the transom to seal the air gap and make it totally flat bottomed all the way out and a NOS K&B .67, NO work done to the motor. It is my first attempt at building a scale hydro. I also want to mod the inside to keep the tune pipe under the deck. How are you measuring the pipe distance, from the back of the head to the band in the pipe ?
 
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Pipe length can be measured two ways, depending on who you're talking to:

1) from the glow plug to the wide part of the pipe

2) fom the outside of the case to the wide part of the pipe.

Either way, you need to be sure that you account for the length of a header of you're using a bent/curved header
 
(hydrojunkie quotes)..If a wood over frame boat is properly built, there is no reason for the skin to flex over the framing. This is one of the reasons I won't build a boat with CA and then coat the joints with epoxy after the fact. Epoxy won't penetrate a joint that is held together by CA, so those joints will, in my opinion, always be suseptible to failing due to the brittle nature of CA .......CA pentrates deeper into the wood then epoxy. Some reson why they crack is CA wont flex and epoxy will flex. Oh HJ it also depend on what CA your using too.. Theres a flexable version out as what I was told.
Thanks to all for the replys and to you Miss Hydro, good to see a lady boater. You sound knowledgeable in construction. How many wood boats have you built ? How many scale hydros have you built ? I am currecntly building a 1/8 scale 1982 Atlas Van Lines Hydro. Could you recommend a good prop for this boat, I am using the K&B 11cc, .67 inboard.
X455/2 to start with....or possibly an X455/3.
Thanks Duck, are those Octura props ?
that hull typically likes a 3 blade, makes it smoother and less flighty.

x455/457 octura

pipe at about 11 3/4 to 12"

is the motor stock or worked on?
This is a totally stock Dumas hull with a mod to the rear of the transom to seal the air gap and make it totally flat bottomed all the way out and a NOS K&B .67, NO work done to the motor. It is my first attempt at building a scale hydro. I also want to mod the inside to keep the tune pipe under the deck. How are you measuring the pipe distance, from the back of the head to the band in the pipe ?

Most guys that run boats measure from the centerline of the engine cylinder to the first fat part of the pipe. Depending on the angle of the pipe and engine, you could get a false measurement, measuring from the glow plug to the fat part of the pipe. You would be close anyway but when people quote pipe lengths, they generally mean from center of engine to fat part of pipe.

X455/3 is an octura prop.
 
What kind of paint does one typically use? Will automotive paint do? Or is marine paint the way to go?

THX

Norm
 
Norm, I do some very nice paint work and usually go top of the line with PPG brand automotive primer,paint and clear coat. I have used rattle can with automotive clears but they must be compatible.
 

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