Wall thickness.

[Samuel Hagan JR]

Someone made a comment on wall thickness and I can’t find it but what kind of wall thickness are you using for parts that you need strength on.

 

[LohringMiller]

More is better. I often run 4 to 6 layers over a low density fill.

Lohring Miller

 

[Samuel Hagan JR]

Do you know the mm thickness by any chance?

 

[longballlumber]

Wall thickness will be determined by your nozzle diameter and number of walls. I assume the your nozzle diameter is .4mm.

.4mm x 6 walls = 2.4mm wall thickness


I just happened to be making some parts this morning. This image show a setting of 3 for number of perimeter walls. That would equate to 1.2mm thick perimeter wall for mine as I am using .4mm nozzle.

 

[the german]

I usually do 1mm (with a 0.4mm nozzle) wall thickness for my dashboards ,crackerbox , 1/8 scale , jersey skiff and thunderboat drivers. It's enough meat to sand them and they come out super light.

 

[Samuel Hagan JR]

Wall thickness will be determined by your nozzle diameter and number of walls. I assume the your nozzle diameter is .4mm.

.4mm x 6 walls = 2.4mm wall thickness


I just happened to be making some parts this morning. This image show a setting of 3 for number of perimeter walls. That would equate to 1.2mm thick perimeter wall for mine as I am using .4mm nozzle.

View attachment 310711

I tried that setting and for some reason it’s warping on the build plate. Im going to go back to the oe setting and see if it stays on the bed. Maybe im doing something wrong again.

 

[longballlumber]

It sounds like your having bed adhesion issues. Changing the wall thickness will have little to do with warping. What material are you printing and what surface type is your heated bed?

 

[Grimracer]

3D printing is strange in the way that parts want to be printed TALL.. in other words your going to have your best prints with items not "layed down"

If you do that you are inviting warping.

Grim

 

[Samuel Hagan JR]

Yeah I’m definitely having bed adhesion issues. I think it’s maybe the cold room. I took it out of the encloser to fix something’s; I need to put it back in. Maybe that might help. Glass Bed for all my prints.
80c for petg
50c for pla

 

[longballlumber]

Are both materials warping? PTEG and PLA can have very different solutions for bed adhesion.

I've not had many adhesion issues with PETG other than bed leveling and Z axis height for the first layer. Are you sure your bed is level and the first layer is close enough to the bed? you want it to "squish" into the bed slightly leaving an oval not a cylinder. Have you cleaned your print bed with Alcohol or Acetone?

Additionally, I use two different build plates with my current printer. For PETG its a textured style sheet to promote release. PETG would adhere to my smooth sheet too good.

I print PLA on a smooth surface to help promote adhesion. After a long hiatus from printing PLA, I was having adhesion issues. I ended up using some cheap hairspray on the build surface. Worked for me.

Another trick I used on my first printer that had a glass build plate was 3M blue masking

A bit of advice. I would stick with one material and one brand until your getting consistent results. Printing is already a "finicky" process. Switching materials only increases issues. Hell, even the same material from the same manufacture can change slightly roll to roll. Typically that is only slight temp changes but it happens.

 

[Grimracer]

This is the best 'general" bed glue i have used. (I have tried a bunch) (the product now has a blue label and its screwing with peoples minds) but its the same stuff. (all stick glues are not the same FOR SURE!)

https://www.amazon.com/FENGWANGLI-P...21pAnSA==&sprefix=3D+Print+Glue,aps,97&sr=8-4
Wash the bed with warm water and then clean with 91%.. apply glue to the bed in rows VERY LIGHT APPLICATION.. AFTER DRY.. apply the other direction in rows..

Place on machine and prepare to print.

Grim

 

[Grimracer]

Then.. you "can get" multiple prints on the same glue but what I have found is that the glue continues to "dry" over time.. so after around 5 prints I change it OR after a week of non use.

Grim

 

[Grimracer]

I have not had time to figure out PETG yet but did get though ABS.. now we are talking.. in time here I will head down the PETG path again.

Grim

 

[longballlumber]

I have not had time to figure out PETG yet but did get though ABS.. now we are talking.. in time here I will head down the PETG path again.

Grim

If your able to print in ABS, why go backwards to PETG. I haven’t tried ABS yet

 

[Grimracer]

The older MakerBot 2X was super at ABS.. so I wanted my new machine to print ABS too.

As for PetG.. in time I might figure it out... but totally no hurry now... having said this.. PETG has properties I could use too.


Grim

 

[Samuel Hagan JR]

Now that I got the bugs figured out on my printer and parts replaced. I’m getting good HQ prints now in PETG. Thanks for the all the advice. I also found out I got a bad roll of PETG from ESUN. It was wound up bad and the filament was getting in a bind in the roll. I’m glad I sat with the print and found that out. I couldn’t figure out why it binding up so bad.

 

[Samuel Hagan JR]

 

[Samuel Hagan JR]

No stringing neither, which is nice.

 

[Grimracer]

NEVER allow the end of your roll to "be free" if you let it go.. you might as well toss the roll!

Grim