Villain 29.5 SC(Slightly Copied)

[Kris Flynn]

but do you think it would be worth while making the center section a wing shape in my electric tunnel, taking into concideration that mine wont go anywhere near as fast as you guys?

it would be easier to make it flat and the same size all the way through, but i want to know if there would be much point in putting in more effort to make the wing shape? do you think i would get much out of it since im running well below 45miles/h ?

Kris

 

[Grimracer]

Kris

I would build it with the airfoil. The boat will go faster then you think and becides the airfiol can only help. It is also a good way to build strength with out adding to much weight.

Just ask Seve H

Its all good ;D

Grim

 

[chunk t]

Kris,

I agree with Grim, it will build in some strength and that's always good.

chunk

 

[Kris Flynn]

ok sure thing, so would the best way of building the foil, be cutting the shape from foam then glueing a thin layer of ply over it? or something different again?

the other method i thought of would be to make a frame then cover over the frame (like an areoplane wing but ill use ply or blasa instead of the stuff they use) but i thought this might not be as strong because it could bow, but i dunno im no expert...what do you guys think?

Kris

 

[Grimracer]

Kris

WOF is most likely the best way for you to build it. It is strong and tough. We use this in our Villain S1 kits and have had good luck with this type of building.

Keep in mind

Do not use CA to glue the parts unless it is made for foam. Use Epoxy as this will not attack the foam.

Keep us posted.

Grim

 

[Kris Flynn]

All

What do you reckon about using a foam center, but instead of covering it with thin ply (more expensive), use a layer of Balsa Wood (Which is what my Tunnel will pretty much be made out of) about 2mm thick?

Does anyone else make race boats from Balsa on here? if so what do you use to water proof it and also to make it a bit stronger?

Kris

 

[GTR]

Hi Kris,

Ply is better but if you want to use balsa it can be stiffened and strengthened by using a mix of polyester resin and micro ballons. Will also sand really smooth. But may be a bit weighty.

GT 8)

 

[Kris Flynn]

GT

micro ballons? what are they?

i was thinking of maybe a few coats of polyurethane (what other names does it Have?)

or some tissue paper covered with polyester resin, should be pretty strong i thik??

i mainly want to use balsa because i want to keep my boat to one type of wood, and balsa is cheaper and easier to work with, in my my opinion anyway

Kris

PS sorry Jerry to step into your Thread...something i wanted to know thats all

 

[GTR]

Kris,

Micro ballons are non-organic spheres that are used as a filler. Increases the bulk of the resin but very light and makes it easier to sand. You should be able to get from your local fiberglas supply shop. If necessary I can give you the part number for West Systems micro ballons.

If you just want to use polyester don't put tissue on just apply it straight to the balsa- but can be a pain to sand.

GT 8)

 

[chunk t]

Kris,

I say go for the balsa!

I'm sure you're aware that there are different "hardness" of balsa (darker in colour the harder the balsa) Don't use the soft "white" balsa, it's harder to seal and dents really easy. The balsa only needs to be skinned w/ply or Lexan if that area of the hull is a running surface (for say hitting floating dibris) or a high stress point (side of the tub on a rigger where the boom passes through). Any other area, balsa only is fine. I would definately use a piece of hard wood for the lead edge of the wing. Foam and balsa are not very dent resistant

I like to use alcohol thinned 15min epoxy (1 part alcohol/3 parts epoxy) for sealing balsa. **DON'T use this mixture to attach the balsa to the foam! the Alcohol will eat the foam!** Brush it on light, let it sit a few hours and lightly sand with 220 grit. repeat 3 or 4 more times. Be careful the epoxy can on rare occasions remain tacky for 4 or 5 days. It's OK to add coats 2,3 & 4 if the epoxy is tacky but make sure it is completely dry before painting.

I once built a Balsa e-rigger for a friend. I think balsa is a great material to use on electric boats.

chunk

 

[Kris Flynn]

ok, i think ive seen those before GT...im pretty sure they used stuff like that when i did Work Experience at a boat bulding place (i want to be a boat builder, i want to be one of the guys who builds and replairs the F1 boats on the Tours ) very neat stuff, pretty strong too

Chunk,

exactly what i needed! i wll try that (probably the cheapest and lightest option), and the epoxy should make it VERY strong...ill try get some mahogany from school, for the front and back of wing

what sort of alchohol should i use? thinners or something different?

i will also use the darkest balsa i can find, none of that light weak stuff.

btw is lexan that stuff that goes on aerolane wings?

i think balsa is the best too, because of its ease to work with, not to expensive and most important, ITS LIGHT!

one more thing...what glue do others use with Balsa? i dont particualary want to use epoxy for the whole thing...or should i (i like to use stuff i can squeeze out of the bottle straight onto the wood, then join wood together)??

Kris

 

[chunk t]

Kris,

Regular rubbing alcohol from the corner store. The thinned epoxy coating will harden and seal the balsa but please don't expect it to be as tough as plastic or fiberglass. In comparison, think of it as super tough paint. I recommended it because you're trying to keep the weight down to a minimum. It's the best option I've come across in the past few years.

Lexan is the stuff R/C car bodies are typically made of (& bicycle helmet outer shells for road racing helmets).

chunk

 

[TimD]

Kris,

Lexan Is sometimes called Polycarbonate.

I buy mine from a window glass supplier - they might have some offcut there that you can buy cheap. I use it for radio box lid's.

 

[Kris Flynn]

Chunk

i knew it wouldnt be that tough

but aslong as it is a bit tougher and fills the grain better than Aircraft Dope and also keeps it so you can still see the wood then its good in my book

Ohhh that stuff i understand now...i just use normal hard plastic for my radio box lids, does the job

i just thought of something...on my next boat i want to seal the Balsa but i dont want to paint it, i want to leave that nice look of the wood, like Jerry and Mike did with their magnificent Villains

my question is, what filler do you use to fill gaps and stuff, so you cant notic it?

at the moment i mix Talcomb Powder in with the Dope and it works pretty good, but it is white therefor i have to paint it so you cant see where i have filled up holes and stuff(or it looks messy)

Kris

 

[MikeP]

Kris,

If you want to leave the natural wood showing I think it's important not to have gaps and filler in the finished hull. Take the time to make parts fit. My own opinion is that people like to show off the work they have done. But if you seal it all with epoxy it will fill in some of the small spots and not show up to bad. You can also let the epoxy cure a little so its thicker then fill in the gaps.

Mike

 

[Kris Flynn]

Thanks Mike!

But how do you guys cut your wood to the right shape so both sides are exactly the same, and to make them a good fit before glueing? do you uses templates or something? if so how do you get the templates to be a perfect fit?

because i find it hard to do on the angled peices (like the sponson bottoms) to make both sides perfectly Symetrical and aligned.

i usually just glue the wood on then shape it after it has dried, but it is sometimes hard to get the sides the look the same, so any help would be great!

Kris

 

[MikeP]

Kris,

Here are some ideas that might help. Make a template of the piece you need out of poster board it's a lot eaiser and cheaper, I usually have to make several before I get it perfect, this is good practice by the time you start on wood you know exactly what to do. Make the left and right sides at the same time, you can stack them together for perfect match(this is important for the side formers that form the sponsons and tunnel sides) you will need a good sized block sander to get straight edges flat. Use a straight edge to check your lines. If you get a piece too big draw a refrence line close to the edge so you know what you are sanding off. If you need to glue a piece on and sand to fit try to fit one side to a former or side piece and sand the other. Practice makes perfect soon you won't even have to think about it and your boat will just turn out nice, each time try a little harder to out do the last one.

Mike

 

[Kris Flynn]

Thanks Mike,

So basically its a bit of trial and error to get the right shape to cver it al properly

i make sure that i stack the same formers (say both part A's in the sponsons frame) to make sure they are both the same but i just wanted to find out how you guys do it and now i do its all good

oh yeah one other thing, do make the frame up for the Sponsons first, then cut the cardboard(or poster board) to shape and tidy it uptill it fits over it perfectly?

then of course get into tracing it onto Balsa and cut it out and sand again

Kris