Turbine Tube Suggestions?

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Todd Breda

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2023
Messages
56
I have a 1982 Pay N Pak 1/8 scale that is nearing completion and I am looking for ideas for what to use for the turbine tube. My builder said one route is a 2-1/2" diameter water bottle you can cut and wrap in mylar or paint...Any other ideas? Thank you!
 

Attachments

  • 82pak_ideal.jpg
    82pak_ideal.jpg
    184.9 KB
Thanks Rick! Wow P THOMAS the Pringles can would be the right diameter? That almost sounds too easy!
 
Thanks Bill, I did notice them. Are they scale for the 82 Pak though? They look more like contemporary tubes?
 
Thanks to all for your ideas...I am going to go with a Smart Water bottle (a perfect fit!) cut/trim and paint it some sort of aluminum or silver.
 

Attachments

  • home2.jpg
    home2.jpg
    1.2 MB
  • home3.jpg
    home3.jpg
    1.3 MB
  • home10.jpg
    home10.jpg
    1.3 MB

Molotow Liquid Chrome​

1697471397982.png

Put this stuff in an airbrush and do several light coats. You will be amazed with the mirror finish it can provide. It is very sensitive to the touch so you would want to paint the inside of the bottle. Clear coats dull it down to an aluminum type finish.
 
The nice thing about using wood is they float. If you haven't had one knocked off yet, you will. Especially on boats like the Pak where the tube goes all the way to the transom. If you are going to use plastic bottles, it's just as easy to make a spare one.

When I was running winged boats I had an entire set of assembled wings-horizontal wing, uprights and installed upright struts that had been fitted to the boat and carried in a box for an entire an no screwing around to swap out if a set of wings got trashed in the race. It's usually the right-side uprights that take the biggest beating.
 
Last edited:
Question, when cutting the bottom of the plastic bottle, what is the best tool to use to get that perfect non-jaggy cutline?
Todd, you could use a Dremel with one of their milling bits to rough the bottom out, then use one of their sanding drums to finish. Use slower speed with fine/medium grit so as to not burn the plastic. Estimated time- 15-20 minutes.

Another idea for getting an authentic appearance on turbine exhaust duct would be to wrap with MonoKote- you can get it online at major hobby sources, or Amazon. You can get it in chrome or brushed metal finish. Easy to work with, heat shrink vinyl wrap.
Your wife's or girlfriend's hair dryer will work fine. Cost- approx. $15-$20.

Amazon does have an off brand variant called Oracover (by OraCal, a high quality vinyl graphics vendor) that is equally as good for approx. 1/3 the price of Top Flite MonoKote.
 
Todd, you could use a Dremel with one of their milling bits to rough the bottom out, then use one of their sanding drums to finish. Use slower speed with fine/medium grit so as to not burn the plastic. Estimated time- 15-20 minutes.

Another idea for getting an authentic appearance on turbine exhaust duct would be to wrap with MonoKote- you can get it online at major hobby sources, or Amazon. You can get it in chrome or brushed metal finish. Easy to work with, heat shrink vinyl wrap.
Your wife's or girlfriend's hair dryer will work fine. Cost- approx. $15-$20.

Amazon does have an off brand variant called Oracover (by OraCal, a high quality vinyl graphics vendor) that is equally as good for approx. 1/3 the price of Top Flite MonoKote.

Never seen MonoKote untill now. It sounds like you have used it before. Is it truly a plastic like material versus a vinyl? It sounds interesting if light weight and more durable...
 

Latest posts

Back
Top