TT Buggy Engine O/B

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hey, it's a junk topic,, pile on!

I BID $150 FOR THAT GADGET PIPE!!,,, :lol: ,,,,, jus kidding,,,,
 
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hey, it's a junk topic,, pile on!
I BID $150 FOR THAT GADGET PIPE!!,,, :lol: ,,,,, jus kidding,,,,




ohhhhhhhhhhh,,,,,,,,thanks j-dubs,,,lol...

terry i will tell you anything you want to hear if you let me get my hands on that gadjet,,,, :lol: ill do a little o.s dance for ya and everything.... :lol:

junk topic,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,found 4 more sets of pto bearings NIP ,,,,,,,,, got em on lock down j-dub,,,, before i know it ill have as much tt stuff as you....lol

alden
 
I do modify the 21D metering valve- it won't transition on 40%+ nitro fuel unless it's been "adjusted". Full rich on the low end isn't rich enough otherwise.
JW is happy with the 20J on his - I never tried that carb on the evo motor. I wanted to keep my 20J on my Stock OS motor.








well tim,,,,, i guess jerry answered for me,,,,,,,,,,, im gettin a 20 j already on it!!!!!!! i feel he may have typed that in anger,,,,,,lol,,,,,,,,kidding.... but i do think it should have been in bold :lol: :lol: :lol: 20J ROCKS ON THE TT....................did you hear that terry??????/ yep i said it.... o.s rocks,,,,ya know the carbs...lol :lol: :lol:

alden
 
I do modify the 21D metering valve- it won't transition on 40%+ nitro fuel unless it's been "adjusted". Full rich on the low end isn't rich enough otherwise.
JW is happy with the 20J on his - I never tried that carb on the evo motor. I wanted to keep my 20J on my Stock OS motor.










well tim,,,,, i guess jerry answered for me,,,,,,,,,,, im gettin a 20 j already on it!!!!!!! i feel he may have typed that in anger,,,,,,lol,,,,,,,,kidding.... but i do think it should have been in bold :lol: :lol: :lol: 20J ROCKS ON THE TT....................did you hear that terry??????/ yep i said it.... o.s rocks,,,,ya know the carbs...lol :lol: :lol:

alden
well like we use'd to say when we worked in the wood's, "kid's in the brush".

I bet you that 21D carb is worth 2 ounces of lead up front,, that thing is friggin' Huge!

I have a 9mm bore of the same thing , its on "Arby"
 
I do modify the 21D metering valve- it won't transition on 40%+ nitro fuel unless it's been "adjusted". Full rich on the low end isn't rich enough otherwise.
JW is happy with the 20J on his - I never tried that carb on the evo motor. I wanted to keep my 20J on my Stock OS motor.










well tim,,,,, i guess jerry answered for me,,,,,,,,,,, im gettin a 20 j already on it!!!!!!! i feel he may have typed that in anger,,,,,,lol,,,,,,,,kidding.... but i do think it should have been in bold :lol: :lol: :lol: 20J ROCKS ON THE TT....................did you hear that terry??????/ yep i said it.... o.s rocks,,,,ya know the carbs...lol :lol: :lol:

alden
well like we use'd to say when we worked in the wood's, "kid's in the brush".

I bet you that 21D carb is worth 2 ounces of lead up front,, that thing is friggin' Huge!

I have a 9mm bore of the same thing , its on "Arby"







:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
I should take a pic of how much lead is in the front of my HTB - it's ridiculous. **** those heavy TT's!
 
How did you get the VZ-M to mount to the lower unit? Is there a homemade PTO, or Crankshaft made for that? I am very interested!
You might not be aware that the Thunder Tiger O/B has always had a set of "spiral bevel gears" that allows an I/B

or buggy engine to be used and them gears will reverse the rotation to turn lefthand props.

The problem lately has been that the TT O/B parts and whole motors have become extinct. The ability to use a

diverse array of powerheads is a big plus in my book. I normally use a buggy engine that cost's as little as $115,,

a rod is $9.49,,ect.

JW



http://www.tiger.com.tw/product/9567.html

this pic is for spoonefcrx,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, and for other inquiring minds...........

alden
 
I should take a pic of how much lead is in the front of my HTB - it's ridiculous. **** those heavy TT's!



thats so strange my 290 only has about 2 oz. on the nose.... maybe the hull has been messed with..........hmmmmmmmmmm...????????
 
How did you get the VZ-M to mount to the lower unit? Is there a homemade PTO, or Crankshaft made for that? I am very interested!
You might not be aware that the Thunder Tiger O/B has always had a set of "spiral bevel gears" that allows an I/B

or buggy engine to be used and them gears will reverse the rotation to turn lefthand props.

The problem lately has been that the TT O/B parts and whole motors have become extinct. The ability to use a

diverse array of powerheads is a big plus in my book. I normally use a buggy engine that cost's as little as $115,,

a rod is $9.49,,ect.

JW



http://www.tiger.com.tw/product/9567.html

this pic is for spoonefcrx,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, and for other inquiring minds...........

alden
That is pretty odd! I forgot that buggy engines turn the opposite the k&b, etc. So, really you just have to get the TT lower, the buggy engine, and have that dowel added to the crank to match the PTO?
 
You try to find a doner buggy engine that has a pull start, rotory start style crank pin. Otherwise a pin

has to be installed,, I have a machinist friend that has a 2 axis mill and a vast amount of small Hi-Roc

drills and end mills. You want a press-fit that will hold but not swell the original crank pin much. He has

large set of drill blanks that are HSS and increase in diameter by .001 to .002".

Thats not really all there there is to it tho, the buggy engines normally have different port timings, head

button volumes and carbs that are useless. They most all have a hole, passage an such to keep oil off

the clutch, usually thru the case and up to the rear of the front bearing. I fill any of those with J&B Weld

which results in a air tight seal on the crank rotor.

Most need crank rotor timing increase, sleeve shims, exhaust port cutting, exhaust "case" port cutting,

head button lathe work (or hand made button) engine mounting lug screw hole re-drilling to fit the

TT bridle and fit the TT PTO, diameter depth and bolt pattern.

Just trying to inform you of the possible work involved.

J-dub
 
I should take a pic of how much lead is in the front of my HTB - it's ridiculous. **** those heavy TT's!



thats so strange my 290 only has about 2 oz. on the nose.... maybe the hull has been messed with..........hmmmmmmmmmm...????????
Now you have a real job in front of you getting that boat trimmed,, you've heard from me,, maybe Tim

will give up his experience with his HTB. I'm sure he will tell you that it takes a serious effort to get to

where it needs to be.

I would recommed that you trim the boat with your original TT O/B as close as you can. Two ounces

doesn't seem even close to what your likely to end up with. I've had as much a 7.5oz on my Lynx,,

and that can change from pond to pond and day from day. This part of the boat /engine adjustment

combo should not be taken lightly,, it can be a lengthy frustrating Cod Sucker of a time,, hardly anybody

speaks about it on here. Most people just say "get the boat trimmed" like it was changing a plug

er something,, it will put to task even the most experienced here,, so get your head right.
 
I should take a pic of how much lead is in the front of my HTB - it's ridiculous. **** those heavy TT's!



thats so strange my 290 only has about 2 oz. on the nose.... maybe the hull has been messed with..........hmmmmmmmmmm...????????
Now you have a real job in front of you getting that boat trimmed,, you've heard from me,, maybe Tim

will give up his experience with his HTB. I'm sure he will tell you that it takes a serious effort to get to

where it needs to be.

I would recommed that you trim the boat with your original TT O/B as close as you can. Two ounces

doesn't seem even close to what your likely to end up with. I've had as much a 7.5oz on my Lynx,,

and that can change from pond to pond and day from day. This part of the boat /engine adjustment

combo should not be taken lightly,, it can be a lengthy frustrating Cod Sucker of a time,, hardly anybody

speaks about it on here. Most people just say "get the boat trimmed" like it was changing a plug

er something,, it will put to task even the most experienced here,, so get your head right.




its funny you say that,,,,, the set up for sure is giving me the run around as it does with the most experienced like you said..... i will be working on that for a while yet.... and of course im runnin the orig. o/b .,,,,,crap it aint even broke in yet jw...lol....still has the same pinch after a whole season,,,, which is maybe 3 gals. of the good stuff.... i think it was the guy who built it.. B) B)

it never fails though when i get a set up that fly's the hull nicely,,,, i know there is a better set up so course im chasing it and here we go again...lol...proly take me 3 - 4 seasons to get it as much as i run.... water is tough here,,, lake has alot of traffic hardly ever a good time to toss a tunnel in the water.... which is an experience that i know you share jerry..... one month,,,,,one day,,,,,, ill get it.........................

B)
 
Currently I have 180 grams (= 6.349 Oz) in front of the radio box, and 30 grams (= 1.05oz)at the CG. I also have a 1/4 scale servo in the middle of the radio box and the RX battery pack right at the front of the box. I broke a bunch of parts finding the right balance for the prop I'm using with some spectacular blow-overs! It's still not perfect in the straights but it's manageable, even in rough water (probably 'cos it's so heavy!) - and corners really well.

Alden, what distance from the transom does the hull balance at?
 
Currently I have 180 grams (= 6.349 Oz) in front of the radio box, and 30 grams (= 1.05oz)at the CG. I also have a 1/4 scale servo in the middle of the radio box and the RX battery pack right at the front of the box. I broke a bunch of parts finding the right balance for the prop I'm using with some spectacular blow-overs! It's still not perfect in the straights but it's manageable, even in rough water (probably 'cos it's so heavy!) - and corners really well.
Alden, what distance from the transom does the hull balance at?
The blow overs are what I'm wanting to guard against by him using his first TT instead of the EVO model. The faster

ya go the farther to the landing a blow over is. I had some beaut's with the Lynx that took out a couple steering

servos. You would'a had to shoot that boat outa cannon to get it that far any other way :lol:
 
tim,,,,, i used the 30% method when i set up the hull originally,,,,,been a while,i forget the measurement..... the hull i have was handed around i suppose since there is about 90 layers of paint on it,,,,, there could be a concauction in the sponson tips,,, i dont know,,, i have had stuff come out of the hull on the occasional blow over.. little pieces of lead,,,and even a engine mount plate one time.... moral is i dont know if the hull has been messed with.. my battery is in the front of the radio box,,,, 2 oz. of washers over this 1/4 20 stud mounted to the hull infront of the radio box,,,, plus the stud,,wood block,,and wing nut weight... in all reality i only ran this hull maybe 12 times as the season came to a close..... so im far from a good set up.....

alden
 
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