testing the Boris Mazor lipo starters

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Back from the lake. Been running Dynatron with old armature and 8s batteries starting 40hydro and a gas mono with no issues. After carefully checking the one I slung yesterday I found that all wire connections to the commutator were in good shape. It appears that a wire got lose and broke halfway one of the commutator poles. It appears to me that was the initial failure. Maybe a poorly wound wire, or a over stretched wire, who knows. No reason to give up on the Dynatron. These starters have been starting our engines for the past 2 decades. I will contact Sulivan and let them know what happened. Next weekend we are going to be starting 101 RS engines on my new twin rigger. Monster boat from my good friend Ralph Almirola. Don thanks for the information.
 
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Well I have 2-24v Dynatron motors on 36v. And a CHEAP 12v motor on 24v. No problems here. I would bet we used them a couple hundred time at the Florida Winter nats.... WE ran boats down there for 7 days. Many Different boaters Used my 24volt motor on 36 volts.
 
Well I have 2-24v Dynatron motors on 36v. And a CHEAP 12v motor on 24v. No problems here. I would bet we used them a couple hundred time at the Florida Winter nats.... WE ran boats down there for 7 days. Many Different boaters Used my 24volt motor on 36 volts.
Back from the lake. Been running Dynatron with old armature and 8s batteries starting 40hydro and a gas mono with no issues. After carefully checking the one I slung yesterday I found that all wire connections to the commutator were in good shape. It appears that a wire got lose and broke halfway one of the commutator poles. It appears to me that was the initial failure. Maybe a poorly wound wire, or a over stretched wire, who knows. No reason to give up on the Dynatron. These starters have been starting our engines for the past 2 decades. I will contact Sulivan and let them know what happened. Next weekend we are going to be starting 101 RS engines on my new twin rigger. Monster boat from my good friend Ralph Almirola. Don thanks for the information.
I'm happy to know you are like and trust DYNATRON starters on 24-36 Volt. You can see the posted pictures and make own choice. I still will do upgrades, but will check EVERY MOTOR AT 125% of requested voltage battery - 42 V for 36, 36 V for 24.

I'm to old and can make mistake but have not enough time ti fix them. Boris
 
I told you about it. You show "warning" more safe so your good products in business . Everyone can't sue your sell products
what the hell you talking about really. no one is going to sue anyone here please.. Boris i use the dynatron 12/24V starter with no issues on 24 V for the last few years and never had a issue. my opinion is the responsibility of the user to ensure they know what they are doing if it goes bad thats on them you do not have any liability for the anything that happens to it. also the ATV starter you have its really heavy the dynatron is the better option
ATV starter lighter of DYNATRON and works with smaller battery. So total less ~1lb. I'm busy to make starters with two more motors and will post new pictures later. Boris
 
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This thread has been very helpful for me.

I built my first gas boat. It has a stock K30S engine with a pulley for starting. Over the weekend my 21.6 volt NiCad setup would not turn over the engine. Luckily a firend had a 24 volt lead acid battery setup that turned it over. Today, I rewired my NiCad setup for 28.8 volts and that was still not enough to turn the gas engine over. These are 1800 mah batteries. I'm thinking NiCad's just don't allow enough current draw. Does this make sense? I have a Dynatron starter.

I'm going to probably switch to LiPo's. Hopefully my LHS has what I need tomorrow in stock. The weather is good here for running. Feel free to suggest any chargers or LiPo battery options.

Thanks.
 
Is a starter solonoid needed for 6S LiPo's or is the standard Speedmaster push button switch heavy-duty enough?

Thanks.
 
This thread has been very helpful for me.

I built my first gas boat. It has a stock K30S engine with a pulley for starting. Over the weekend my 21.6 volt NiCad setup would not turn over the engine. Luckily a firend had a 24 volt lead acid battery setup that turned it over. Today, I rewired my NiCad setup for 28.8 volts and that was still not enough to turn the gas engine over. These are 1800 mah batteries. I'm thinking NiCad's just don't allow enough current draw. Does this make sense? I have a Dynatron starter.

I'm going to probably switch to LiPo's. Hopefully my LHS has what I need tomorrow in stock. The weather is good here for running. Feel free to suggest any chargers or LiPo battery options.

Thanks.
I think HOBBY KING has a great choice of nice LIPO battery and chargers. I use 6S 4.5 Ah Turnigy nanotech battery ans IMAX charger. Please be carefull with switch, I use solenoid in power line. Boris
 
Is a starter solonoid needed for 6S LiPo's or is the standard Speedmaster push button switch heavy-duty enough?

Thanks.
This is my experience and knowledge for life long work. With 6S 24V LIPO DYNATRON starter drain ~100A. The speedmaster standard heavy-duty switch rated for 70 A and disconnecting ark can destroy it. The choice is yours. A lot of modelers using this switch for a long time, but better to use solenoid for this kind of load. Boris
 
Is a starter solonoid needed for 6S LiPo's or is the standard Speedmaster push button switch heavy-duty enough?

Thanks.
The answer is "YES". You should use a solenoid along with a 10W / 10 Ohms resistor from Radio Shack in series with the push button to save the solenoid and push button.
 
nogood
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Join Date Oct 2008 Location Bergen, Norway

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Re: New wireless starter

I bought one of these starters and I am very happy with it! It has no problem to start my engines, J&G 28.5, Gizmo 28,5 and QD26HT.
After two days at the lake I still use the same battery 4S 4900mAh, I quess at least 30 starts + plus some cranking to empty water out of the engines
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The starter sits good in the hand, and the the build quality is good.
 
Thanks Boris for this great tool and your excellent service!
 
This Jim's RC member from Norway post after testing my new wireless starter. Hi order starter with out battery and charger. Boris
 
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What minimum discharge rate would you recommend for starting a 90 engine on a Dynatron with a 6s battery, 20C/30C/40C?
 
What minimum discharge rate would you recommend for starting a 90 engine on a Dynatron with a 6s battery, 20C/30C/40C?
For DYNATRON starter you need 6S, 4000 mAh, 30C or 6000 mAh, 20C minimum.

The formula is Ah x C > or = 120. Boris
 
Way safer than Most Electric Boat on a Milion & 1/2 AMPS in the hot pit area.....
Electric boats are not on any amps in the hot pit area. Not one amp. Zero. Sorry guys, couldn't let that go.

I just thought of something. Running motors way past their voltage ratings in the hot pits with LiPo batteries and nitro fuel? Sure that's a good plan? The motors have historically allowed over volting from what I'm reading here.........with no problems.........yet. This sounds familiar. I'm having some dejavue. I've baked a lot of brushed motors over the years. Some spitting chunks of molten armature in the boat. But always in the boat on the water away from me or anyone else. Never baked one with my hand less than an inch away. Not sure how that would go to be honest. I'm sure it will be fine. Nothing has ever happened right?

Has anyone ever figured out the amperage you're pulling through these starters? I would wager that the amperage changes depending on which motor you are starting. If you had that you could come up with more battery choices and pretty good estimates as to how often you need to charge the setup.
 
It is hard to estimate time to recharge the battery on cordless starter. I recommend to use battery monitor to check battery condition and keep spare battery ready. Usually max drain only 1-2 second on beginning and drop down after first turn of motor.

The choice of minimal capacity (Ah) and C rate of battery very simple: Ah x C have to be bigger max drain of motor. The 5 Ah, 25 C battery work well with Dynatron motor. ATV motor needs twice more Ah x C, so Turnigy battery rated 25-50C good enough and safety. Boris
 
Well folks after I had sent a spare new Sullivan Dynatron to Boris for lipo conversion he asked if I would test it as well as his 12V starter and report the findings. Well this past weekend I got the chance to test both my new one and Boris 12 volt against old faithful, my 10 year old 24 volt gell cell Dynatron. After starting a CMB 101 all day during prop and pipe testing I'll tell you that you simply can't go wrong with either the Dynatron conversion or the Boris starter. The only thing I really do not like is having the lipos hanging out in the open so a had a real good friend weld me up an aluminum box that I bolted to the Dynatron conversion back plate and lined with thick felt padding to protect my 2 Hyperion 4S packs. As for the Boris starter you can get by a single 3S (11.1 volt) pack but it was noticeably stouter on a 4S (14.8 volt) pack (he sent one of each to test with). The 3S and 4S packs are available in "hard case" from a couple different manufacturers which would be much better unless you do what I did with the aluminum box. The converted Dynatron was definitely the mac daddy of all though as with an 8S (29.6 volt) set up it rocked the house and spun that 101 like a little 12 motor. I would also have liked to see the Boris 12 volt starter handle be as long as the Dynatron conversion but beyond that you can't go wrong with either from Mr. Mazor. And remember to ALWAYS handle your lipos with care and store charge them down to 60% when you're done for the day or weekend. B)
I got HONDA starter motors and redesign my starter. The new design has 3 side protection of battery and isolated solenoid terminals. Now it is more safety. Boris

wireless starter 026.jpg
 
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