Surface Drive Question

[jetpack]

I am planning a monohull. First one I've ever set up so I have to ask this question.

It is a Norco Eaglet. Probably unfamiliar with most everyone, but it is a shallow V hull with a "ski" down the center, making it a narrow flat bottom with V sides I guess is the best way to describe it.

I've never seen one run so no idea how it lays in a corner, and debating if a surface drive would be a good idea or not, and maybe just plan on staying with a submerged prop.

I have mostly studied hydro setups and never ran a mono before, so here's where I have to ask for some experience.

Study what I have and let me hear how you would set it up.

I have an Octura SB6 "Strutter" strut and rudder setup that can be mounted either way.

The hull is built upside down on a building board as shown. There is probably

no more than 3 degrees in the center V that is about 3" wide.

I am leaning towards choosing a stinger drive because the engine is mounted pretty far back, and to use a submerged drive will call for some small radius in the flex shaft.

I guess the best way to ask is what would the best prop depth would be for it to handle well.

 

[crrcboatz]

I am planning a monohull. First one I've ever set up so I have to ask this question.
It is a Norco Eaglet. Probably unfamiliar with most everyone, but it is a shallow V hull with a "ski" down the center, making it a narrow flat bottom with V sides I guess is the best way to describe it.

I've never seen one run so no idea how it lays in a corner, and debating if a surface drive would be a good idea or not, and maybe just plan on staying with a submerged prop.

I have mostly studied hydro setups and never ran a mono before, so here's where I have to ask for some experience.

Study what I have and let me hear how you would set it up.

I have an Octura SB6 "Strutter" strut and rudder setup that can be mounted either way.

The hull is built upside down on a building board as shown. There is probably

no more than 3 degrees in the center V that is about 3" wide.

I am leaning towards choosing a stinger drive because the engine is mounted pretty far back, and to use a submerged drive will call for some small radius in the flex shaft.

I guess the best way to ask is what would the best prop depth would be for it to handle well.

oh but you are bringing back some fond memories!!! That boat will need a semi submerged at least! The bottom was not made for today's surface drive in my view. Place the stuffing tube about 1/4 inch from the bottom of the hull and use a standard skigged strut.

Curt

 

[Rokieboater]

Subsurface is the way to go on tis boat. I would set it up per instructions. This boat was very fast in its day with a Veco 19. The boat will be ballistic with todays .21 motors. It fell by the wayside when the big Deep Vee rage hit back in the mid to late 70's. My Dad still has one in his rafters. i always wanted to pull it down and mess with it.

Robert

 

[MarkDanielsSr]

I agree that sub surface is the way to go on this hull. We have been playing with a glass very shallow vee hull here and get much better results running sub surface. We have been increasing pitch on smaller diameter props and getting good results. Our hull is an old out of production design that we wanted to experiment with. Good Luck.

Mark D.

 

[russmustar]

I agree that sub surface is the way to go on this hull. We have been playing with a glass very shallow vee hull here and get much better results running sub surface. We have been increasing pitch on smaller diameter props and getting good results. Our hull is an old out of production design that we wanted to experiment with. Good Luck.Mark D.

That boat sure looks a awful lot like an old Steve Muck Northwind 20 or are my eyes fooling me? Russ

 

[crrcboatz]

Mark,

Is the hull you are experimenting with a JVS Slick Trick?????

Curt

 

[jetpack]

Thanks for the input, guys. Sub-surface it will be. Was hoping for surface drive just for the ease on the flex shaft but it should be okay.

I know it might take some testing, but I have three options on where to mount the rudder with the Octura strutter package. Where would be a good start? One is with the short bracket, rudder next to the strut on a standoff, second is in-line prop and rudder, and last is like the first setup only its on the rear of the strutter bracket.

I am trying to judge where everything will be happy before I trim the stuffing tube length before the strut.

 

[Daniel's Racing]

Subsurface is the way to go on tis boat. I would set it up per instructions. This boat was very fast in its day with a Veco 19. The boat will be ballistic with todays .21 motors. It fell by the wayside when the big Deep Vee rage hit back in the mid to late 70's. My Dad still has one in his rafters. i always wanted to pull it down and mess with it.
Robert

Absolutely sub surface. Only choice for that hull.

Daniel

 

[Steve Seebold]

In the early 70's there was a hull simialar to that. It was called "NORTHWIND". It was made in the Seattle area, I think by a man named Jim Whitlatch. It was the fastest thing going at the time if set up properly, but back then surface drives were illegal.

The prop had to be under the boat.

 

[Charles Perdue]

In the early 70's there was a hull simialar to that. It was called "NORTHWIND". It was made in the Seattle area, I think by a man named Jim Whitlatch. It was the fastest thing going at the time if set up properly, but back then surface drives were illegal.

The prop had to be under the boat.

The designers name was Ed Fisher, the prop was underneath the back of the boat and the boat had to be launched VERY gently by just sitting it in the water and just nudging the throttle, then it took off like a rocket.

 

[Mark Poole ModVP]

Just wondering....Would that hull be legal by the book in IMPBA? Added apendage and/or air lifting capabilities are not allowed. Cool looking boat but the entire rear half is a lifting body.

 

[jetpack]

I think this boat is an old NAMBA sanctioned hull.

It's a good question though because that rule has some gray area.

Is there anyone we can submit this hull to and have it looked at for that reason? For me, it would be good to know if I would be able to toss it in a race sometime. I have plans for it just to be a fun runner so far.

 

[R.J.West]

Thats an awesome looking hull, Oldschool's the way to go! After looking at the plans for the first time, yeah definately sub-surface drive, that octura setup you had pictured would work great.

Are you gonna put one of those pimped out k&b .21's you have in it or a shiney Webra?

 

[jetpack]

Hi RJ, the Webra's your familiar with will all go towards Drag N Fly hydros.

The Eaglet will pretty much look like what's on the box with the KB and throttle exhaust.

I had picked up the Octura hardware to possibly work into my Drag N Fly 20 build and decided not to use it, but helped me decide to keep it for a mono so I kept my eye out for what interested me and the Eaglet came along.

It's old school for sure but looks like a lot of fun to me, and if I can get it to cook I wouldn't mind racing that class but for now I'm just going to build it for the cool factor and hope for the best.

 

[Tom Foley]

Cool looking motor but will be so far down on speed and reliability especially with that venturi deal with the giant spraybar blocking the intake . these motors are dogs compared to even ten year old CMB stuff . just sayin all the work to set the boat up and prop and then 15 MPH off the pace is all .

 

[jetpack]

I tried looking back in the records for the namba oval record time that year to get an idea how fast the KB inboard was but couldnt find anything.

Must have done okay with the other breeds at that time being a record holder setup.

 

[Kez]

Hi RJ, the Webra's your familiar with will all go towards Drag N Fly hydros.

The Eaglet will pretty much look like what's on the box with the KB and throttle exhaust.

I had picked up the Octura hardware to possibly work into my Drag N Fly 20 build and decided not to use it, but helped me decide to keep it for a mono so I kept my eye out for what interested me and the Eaglet came along.

It's old school for sure but looks like a lot of fun to me, and if I can get it to cook I wouldn't mind racing that class but for now I'm just going to build it for the cool factor and hope for the best.

Hi there,

Just curious to know if you painted the crankcase black or was it an anodizing job?

kez

 

[jetpack]

The cases I painted with Dupli-Color High Heat with Ceramic paint which is baked on. It's very tough stuff so far but that is cold testing with 40% and have no clue how well its going to hold up once it starts to heat cycle and oil soak. I might have to strip it and live with the stained cases I started with.

 

[johnbelanger]

i have a very simmilar boat i built in the 70s a japanese kit hobbyshack/people called the scirroco never got it to run .cavatated like crazy

but iwas just a 13 year old with no money now in my mid 40s ill pull it out of the attic and give it an other shot.

any more info on drive set up and prop recomendations would be great

thanx

 

[jetpack]

I have the instruction sheet/blueprint for that one I can take pics if you have any questions on original setup. It's an old Pilot brand kit. Half english and half japanese writing. It would be a good one to have templates for as it would be a great boat next to that Norco Eaglet. They look somewhat similar to each other.