Strut depth/Angle - My Sport 20 is hopping around

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Thanks Bill! I have been using a blowdryer blowing into some access holes that I cut on the inside of the boat. Several perople have suggested the aquarium pump, which I have yet to try, but I will certainly do so!

Thanks again -

Jay
 
Just an update on this one -

After moving the foam back to the front of the boat by cutting a small access hole in the side, the boat ran much much better. It is actually fast again. I decided, though to make some other modifications, which further improved the boat's performance:

1) Completely new radio box, installed 3/4" closer to the front of the boat. It is now even with the vertical step in the hull.

2) Not just one, but 2 access panels used to facilitate the flow of air through the boat when not in use. Helps to dry out the insides. Access panels sealed during use.

Both of thes modifications are intended to put the CG of the boat closer to the front. Works well.

We'll see if its any good at the club race this weekend -

Jay
 
Will Gallagher said:
Phill,

where is the CG on your SS21 RTR without fuel??

Several weeks ago I checked the CG on Jay's boat and it was aproximatly 16 inches back from the sponson tips (with out fuel)

The setup info states 14 inches from the rear, thats 16 from the front. The one I race balances at 14 1/2, no fuel.

I had stated the balance at 20 (not correct) Guess I was thinking of sport 40 measurments. You would have to add a lot of lead to get it balanced at 20 on a 30 inch boat. :lol:

PHIL

TRIMMING THE BOAT

The 1 1/16” inch strut depth is a good starting point. If the boat rides too light on the water, adjust the strut deeper. If the front sponson are running too hard on the water adjust the strut higher until the boat rides flat on the water but will not blow off. Small adjustments to the strut angle can be made also. Weight can be added to the nose to fine trim the hulls balance point if needed. The hull should balance about 14 inches from the transom without fuel.
 
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(snippet from previous message)

We'll see if its any good at the club race this weekend -

(update)

The boat won all four heats at the club race. Still not what I would call "fast", but it is not flipping and hopping anymore, and it is consistent. I am now focused on the motor and pipe looking for a bit more speed. So, the mods mentioned in the previous message seem to have worked. I'll measure the new balance point next time I get the thing back together (its in pieces at the moment - salt water racing demands rigorous cleaning afterwards).

Thanks!

Jay
 
Racerdude said:
(snippet from previous message)
We'll see if its any good at the club race this weekend -

(update)

The boat won all four heats at the club race.  Still not what I would call "fast", but it is not flipping and hopping anymore, and it is consistent.  I am now focused on the motor and pipe looking for a bit more speed.  So, the mods mentioned in the previous message seem to have worked. I'll measure the new balance point next time I get the thing back together (its in pieces at the moment - salt water racing demands rigorous cleaning afterwards).

Thanks!

Jay

108856[/snapback]

OK Sounds good That salt water will make the boat run different too I bet.

PHIL
 
OK Sounds good That salt water will make the boat run different too I bet.PHIL
It does. The boat is more bouyant in the salt water. The only time I clean my motors with water is when I race on salt. Everything needs a good scrubbing after the race. I even tear the motor apart.

Mike
 
Yeah it sucks getting salt water on your pipe. Instant evaporator. You get to find out what all the metals are on your boat when you run in salt water. Hmm that is not stainless....

Regular pipe legnths and standard prop sizes mean nothing here. It is sea level (of course) and usually hot and humid. Oh and don't forget about the pond monster....
 
Sorry - I guess I missed this one. By request, here is one of the shots of my SS20 in action. Phil Thomas might enjot this one -

Jay
 
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