strut and rudder for 47" delta force mono

[Mark Stein]

Loking for a good strut and rudder for 47" delta foce mono. What is the recommended dimension from the end to the transom? Setback for rudder?

Prefer running a Strut vs. a stinger

First gas boat so not sure where to start.

Thanks

Mark

 

[Scott Tonak]

Hi Mark, sent you a pm!

 

[Tony Jacuzzi]

Mark what boat is it the DF90 II ? I have one of those but I think its 49 inches. I have a good setup sheet for that boat

 

[Steve Seebold]

A stinger is infinitely more adjustable than a strut.

 

[Scott Tonak]

A stinger is infinitely more adjustable than a strut.

I disagree. With a strut it's 1 bolt adjustment up down + - and any point in between wherever you need it. Stingers are a PITA

 

[Steve Seebold]

A stinger is infinitely more adjustable than a strut.

I disagree. With a strut it's 1 bolt adjustment up down + - and any point in between wherever you need it. Stingers are a PITA

You're right. You loosen one screw and you move your strutf to "oh, this looks about right" and tighten that screw hoping for your strut doesn't move in the process.

 

[Mark Stein]

Mark what boat is it the DF90 II ? I have one of those but I think its 49 inches. I have a good setup sheet for that boat

Tony not totally sure which hull it is. I am sure its a Delta Force and 47 inches long. The DF site is hard to find anything

 

[Mark Stein]

A stinger is infinitely more adjustable than a strut.

I disagree. With a strut it's 1 bolt adjustment up down + - and any point in between wherever you need it. Stingers are a PITA

You're right. You loosen one screw and you move your strutf to "oh, this looks about right" and tighten that screw hoping for your strut doesn't move in the process.

I like the look of the stingers I have tried both and prefer struts for monos for a few reasons.

I have a 60" rough water cat that will have stingers for the look if I get aroud to finishing it.lol. Big enough that the gas engines will sit down in the sponsons and under the deck

 

[TimothyJones]

I have sold alot of these setups.

This may be a good start .

On the strut being flat or round and whether you want dual p/u on the rudder would be your choice.

This setup does give some options.

http://www.mcssl.com/store/8c2175fc512f47f0836658c90e2ddc/speedmaster-hardware/xtd-mono-250-strut-assy-spds-010-250mf

http://www.mcssl.com/store/8c2175fc512f47f0836658c90e2ddc/catalog/product/090354b76f3647ffa6a23267d239e65c

This is what I mean for options,

The strut would give you that xtd like a stinger and you could do a hydro bracket to bring the strut closer to the hull.

The rudder assy you could change to a non tapered blade or single pick up at a later date.

Tim

 

[rhomodel]

I like the 5 inch offset rudder and strut vs stinger: used stinger in the past but have changed these to strut, which I feel is a tad faster / better handling.

 

[RaceMechaniX]

I just used standard Speedmaster hardware on mine. 1/4 hydro strut and a 5" offset twin pickup straight blade rudder. You could also use the longer 1/4" mono strut as well.

This was an electric mono so I had to seal the strut by way of a flooded stuffing tube.

A stinger would also work fine.

Tyler

 

[Daniel's Racing]

A stinger is infinitely more adjustable than a strut.

I disagree. With a strut it's 1 bolt adjustment up down + - and any point in between wherever you need it. Stingers are a PITA

Amen to that. Almost nobody uses stingers anymore. Never seen many struts break and/or loose parts like the stingers can and do.

Tim,

Best to leave the long brackets on the extended strut to keep the prop well out back and because those struts also have a nose on them well in front of the vertical strut blade so if you run any shorter brackets it would put that inside of the transom or you could just mill it off and use the shorter brackets but mono's like the prop right where the long brackets and extended strut place it.

Best to machine the slot lower and mount the brackets really low for the best support possible and drill out the through bolt hole to accept 1/4" so it stays put when you tighten it.

I machined a little of the nose of this strut because it was too close to the transom even with the long brackets.

 

[Steve Seebold]

A stinger is infinitely more adjustable than a strut.

I disagree. With a strut it's 1 bolt adjustment up down + - and any point in between wherever you need it. Stingers are a PITA

Amen to that. Almost nobody uses stingers anymore. Never seen many struts break and/or loose parts like the stingers can and do.

Tim,

Best to leave the long brackets on the extended strut to keep the prop well out back and because those struts also have a nose on them well in front of the vertical strut blade so if you run any shorter brackets it would put that inside of the transom or you could just mill it off and use the shorter brackets but mono's like the prop right where the long brackets and extended strut place it.

Best to machine the slot lower and mount the brackets really low for the best support possible and drill out the through bolt hole to accept 1/4" so it stays put when you tighten it.

I machined a little of the nose of this strut because it was too close to the transom even with the long brackets.

You guys have seen stingers break because you insist on running inferior products.
Granted, my hardware is more expensive than other products, but in the 12 years I have been making running gear, I have had absolutely no failures on any of my stuff.

Yes, my stingers cost more than the mass produced stuff, but I know guys who have run my stingers for three years without replacing the lead teflon bushings.

 

[Daniel's Racing]

Steve,

No doubt that is true all stingers are not created equal. Yours may be a better one and I know Ron Bucks is a better one also.

Actually I should not have said no one uses them as the Ron Buck drive are the ones I use to modify for the twin mono's because I can machine a new barrel for them that will accept a 3/8" sleeve in them for running the 5/16" hollow stub shafts. That is only because the struts do not have enough meat to do this to them. Those aside the strut is just such a simple and light setup that doesn't have parts that can fall off. If your drive is bolted together every bolt is one place more it could fail over a strut. Granted if you use locktite they should stay put but the fact they are there at all is one more place it could fail.

 

[Steve Seebold]

Steve,

No doubt that is true all stingers are not created equal. Yours may be a better one and I know Ron Bucks is a better one also.

Actually I should not have said no one uses them as the Ron Buck drive are the ones I use to modify for the twin mono's because I can machine a new barrel for them that will accept a 3/8" sleeve in them for running the 5/16" hollow stub shafts. That is only because the struts do not have enough meat to do this to them. Those aside the strut is just such a simple and light setup that doesn't have parts that can fall off. If your drive is bolted together every bolt is one place more it could fail over a strut. Granted if you use locktite they should stay put but the fact they are there at all is one more place it could fail.

And I do something with the running gear I make that "NO ONE" else does.

I put a warranty on my running gear that if it fails due to manufacturing or material defects, I will repair it, replace it or refund your money. YOUR CHOICE.

The only things I will not cover is if it was damaged in a collision, and I don't warranty the lead teflon bushings.

 

[Daniel's Racing]

Steve,

Do you have them in stock now and a picture of one. Might be a alternative because the Ron Buck drives aren't always available when I need one to mod for the 5/16" stub size for the twin mono's.

 

[Steve Seebold]

I'll be starting a 50 piece run in the next 2 or 3 days. It will take 3 to 4 weeks. I have a new design that will be a marked improvement in the drive.

 

[Daniel's Racing]

A stinger is infinitely more adjustable than a strut.

I disagree. With a strut it's 1 bolt adjustment up down + - and any point in between wherever you need it. Stingers are a PITA

You're right. You loosen one screw and you move your strutf to "oh, this looks about right" and tighten that screw hoping for your strut doesn't move in the process.

If you scribe a few horizontal lines into the top of the strut blade it helps you not loose your place and also easy to reference any trim angle it may be set at but your right struts do have that one inherent issue with it taking two hands to tighten the bolt and since most people are short a hand to hold the blade in place it does often allow you to struggle on occasion. Once you find the sweet spot you just put a scribe final line on the blade on the other side. I solved the hand shortage issue with this hydro strut. The hard stainless machined insert is locked in place by bolting to the oversize washer which is pinned to the brackets on the backside at 9:00 so it only takes one hand to tighten or loosen. It is 1/4" so it holds the strut seriously tight so it stays put.

 

[Scott Tonak]

Nice design Dan. I'll definitely try one on my next build. I've learned, as most of us have, with a speedmaster type to loosen the bolt and nut just enough so you can make adjustments without allowing the strut to be completely loose. I use a sharpie to mark my initial set up and then like you, scribe a line for the sweet spot when you find the right strut/prop set up. Accurately measure the settings and document. I keep detailed setting notes on all my boats for different water conditions, heat race, saw, time trials, etc..

 

[Mark Stein]

Nice design Dan. I'll definitely try one on my next build. I've learned, as most of us have, with a speedmaster type to loosen the bolt and nut just enough so you can make adjustments without allowing the strut to be completely loose. I use a sharpie to mark my initial set up and then like you, scribe a line for the sweet spot when you find the right strut/prop set up. Accurately measure the settings and document. I keep detailed setting notes on all my boats for different water conditions, heat race, saw, time trials, etc..

There is quite a range between completely loose and damn i cant believe that bolt snapped... lol