Spraying Epoxy Paint?

[P THOMAS]

whit primer doesn't like it hot. we spray in the garage with the heat cranked.at 95 degrees it drys at the tip,thats what klass kote told me was happening.flat white works better

Yea thats probally why. If they had a real slow reducer it may work at that temp. Normal room temp would be enough. I spray sometime in the cold weather in the garage and hang the part over a kerosene heater and it gets 90 -110 on the part. dries real quick and ready to work with.

 

[P THOMAS]

I have a quick question about epoxy paint. Has anyone ever sprayed a sealed wooden hull without priming it first? The reason I ask is I just ordered a 1/2 gallon kit from KlassKote and was told by the rep the white paint was opaque enough to apply without a primer coat. My experience is with 2 part automotive urethanes and they always require primer/surfacer. I have never sprayed epoxy paint before, so I was wondering if this is possible. If it's true, it sure would save a ton of time and effort. Any thoughts or input is appreciated.

Thanks

If the wood is sealed pretty good it would be ok, just have to spray coats till you dont see and wood grain.

 

[Ray Sametz]

whit primer doesn't like it hot. we spray in the garage with the heat cranked.at 95 degrees it drys at the tip,thats what klass kote told me was happening.flat white works better

Yea thats probally why. If they had a real slow reducer it may work at that temp. Normal room temp would be enough. I spray sometime in the cold weather in the garage and hang the part over a kerosene heater and it gets 90 -110 on the part. dries real quick and ready to work with.

Phil, your lucky you don't blow yourself to Kingdom Come.

 

[Glenn Gates]

whit primer doesn't like it hot. we spray in the garage with the heat cranked.at 95 degrees it drys at the tip,thats what klass kote told me was happening.flat white works better

Yea thats probally why. If they had a real slow reducer it may work at that temp. Normal room temp would be enough. I spray sometime in the cold weather in the garage and hang the part over a kerosene heater and it gets 90 -110 on the part. dries real quick and ready to work with.

Phil, your lucky you don't blow yourself to Kingdom Come.

Phil, Listen to Ray-Like you to have a long and happy life.

Glenn

 

[68Bud]

I have a quick question about epoxy paint. Has anyone ever sprayed a sealed wooden hull without priming it first? The reason I ask is I just ordered a 1/2 gallon kit from KlassKote and was told by the rep the white paint was opaque enough to apply without a primer coat. My experience is with 2 part automotive urethanes and they always require primer/surfacer. I have never sprayed epoxy paint before, so I was wondering if this is possible. If it's true, it sure would save a ton of time and effort. Any thoughts or input is appreciated.

Thanks

Klasskote is very similar to K&B superpoxy and Hobbypoxy. I have used the clear to seal the wooden hull (brushing) and then spray the white without primer. The white is as opaque as the primer. The primer sands a little easier than the white though. I find that two coats is enough for my standard.

kez

If the wood is sealed pretty good it would be ok, just have to spray coats till you dont see and wood grain.

Thanks Kez, Phil. I appreciate the good info. I seal my hulls with West systems epoxy and priming always seems like such a waste after sanding the epoxy smooth. If this goes as planned I may use KlassKote for all my future builds. Is there a compatible solvent to use (besides the pricey thinner) for prep and clean up? Thanks again.

Scott

 

[BeaverGuy]

I have used "Ace Lacquer Thinner - High Strength" with good results when shooting Klass Kote over West Systems epoxy. However using some primers in between causes the KlassKote to lift from taping the radio box cover down.

 

[Ray Sametz]

Scott, in an emergency I've used a good lacquer thinner ie (Dupli-color) to reduce Klasskote. The cheap stuff from Home Cheapo and Blowes is only good for clean up.

 

[68Bud]

Scott, in an emergency I've used a good lacquer thinner ie (Dupli-color) to reduce Klasskote. The cheap stuff from Home Cheapo and Blowes is only good for clean up.

Hey Thanks Ray, Beaver Guy. It sounds like laquer thinner is the way to go for prep wipe down and cleanup. I bought the KlassKote thinner for the paint, but at $12/qt I don't plan on using it to clean the gun. Thanks again.

Scott

 

[steve wood]

i've used other brands of laquer thinner with klass kote with no problems.they told me that true value brand would work fine.so does kleen strip

 

[Roxyflash]

I built two whiplashes with west system.The first one i used West system to seal what a mistake.I used Mas on the second one to seal.The west balls up on the paper takes forever to dry hard.The Mas sands so easy doest clog the sand paper.My west system days are over!I built with west because thats what they wanted but anymore wont make that mistake.I use the cheapo laquer thinner works fine.Heres my last paint job with the Klass Kote.

 

[Don Ferrette]

While MAS might work ok as a seal coat it can't even come close to West Systems for build strength quality. I gave away two 1/2 full bottles of MAS after finding out the hard way. MAS might be easier to work with but can't hold a candle to West Systems for build quality. Been there, done that, lesson learned. I'll take the extended dry times and superior strength of West Systems hands down over MAS any day. B)

 

[R.J.West]

I'm always willing to try something new however I never tried West Systems before mostly because of the price. I've been using Zpoxy finishing resin and i liked it alot, sanded real nice n easy too.

 

[Bill Gibson]

West Systems is GOOD stuff.....cured quicker than i thought it would even using the super slow hardener...no sanding issues, for me anyway...really soaks into the wood and bonds well. Ive also used Z-poxy for sealing and it worked just fine too....ive found out the hard way a coupla times, regardless of the epoxy we use, that accurate mixing ratios are so IMPORTANT!

 

[Chris Wood]

While MAS might work ok as a seal coat it can't even come close to West Systems for build strength quality. I gave away two 1/2 full bottles of MAS after finding out the hard way. MAS might be easier to work with but can't hold a candle to West Systems for build quality. Been there, done that, lesson learned. I'll take the extended dry times and superior strength of West Systems hands down over MAS any day. B)

Hey don,

I am curious on this.. I was looking at using some mas sometime.. what did you find with the stuff that you didn't like over west?

thanks

chris

 

[Mark Leyde]

While MAS might work ok as a seal coat it can't even come close to West Systems for build strength quality. I gave away two 1/2 full bottles of MAS after finding out the hard way. MAS might be easier to work with but can't hold a candle to West Systems for build quality. Been there, done that, lesson learned. I'll take the extended dry times and superior strength of West Systems hands down over MAS any day. B)

Don they are both good epoxies. Othere wise my full size PRO boats would be junk. Beccause they are build with MAS. I have not had an issue with MAS in ten years of using it.

 

[Roxyflash]

I have built alot of hulls with all kinds of epoxy.I just didnt like the west for sealing.I have a full can of the special hardner which is still full after it wouldnt cure fully.For sealing a hull i will stick with the mas sands like a good primer.I have never like the west system mix ratio either.I use the pumps.Otherwise be real hard to get right with out a scale.Just my personal opinion.The main thing with the Mas is not to over due the hardner makes it brittle.Better to be alittle on the short side on the Mas hardner.Also this is from Mas

No Blush. Nobody likes washing and sanding between coats, and we found this was the biggest culprit of contact dermatitis. It was also a large contributor to paint failure. As a result, MAS is no-blush.

Ever have West Blush ?

 

[Bill Gibson]

This has gotten very interesting....a little O/T, but it seems there is kind of a split between West Systems and Maus epoxies.....ive used West Systems stuff and have been quite happy with it, but ive never used the Maus epoxy before...ive even had good luck with most hobby type epoxies......I dont recall having issues with sandpaper clogging up using West 105 resin and super slow hardener after sealing a boat up either......wonder if i should try some of the Maus stuff?........sure would like to hear more opinions on this........start another thread maybe? I dunno!

 

[Glenn Gates]

This has gotten very interesting....a little O/T, but it seems there is kind of a split between West Systems and Maus epoxies.....ive used West Systems stuff and have been quite happy with it, but ive never used the Maus epoxy before...ive even had good luck with most hobby type epoxies......I dont recall having issues with sandpaper clogging up using West 105 resin and super slow hardener after sealing a boat up either......wonder if i should try some of the Maus stuff?........sure would like to hear more opinions on this........start another thread maybe? I dunno!

Consider it started!

 

[dr gary turner]

I have a quick question about epoxy paint. Has anyone ever sprayed a sealed wooden hull without priming it first? The reason I ask is I just ordered a 1/2 gallon kit from KlassKote and was told by the rep the white paint was opaque enough to apply without a primer coat. My experience is with 2 part automotive urethanes and they always require primer/surfacer. I have never sprayed epoxy paint before, so I was wondering if this is possible. If it's true, it sure would save a ton of time and effort. Any thoughts or input is appreciated.

Thanks

I spray PPG single stage paint directly over west or mas sealed boat. Often use white wet sand and thenspray color. Dr.T

 

[Keith Halverson]

Good info. Since this thread is about epoxy paints, I figured it would be ok to ask this question here. Keep it all together as such.

Going to be shooting some clear Klass Coat and was wondering on the average of how many minutes I should wait before a second coat? I hope to get it "Done in one", but I think it might need another.

I have the shop up to about 70 deg F.

Thanks for any help.