Sport 40 Help

[GarsonConnor]

HELPPPPPPP I have a PT Sport 40 that I have had 3 motors in it and am now on my forth. I purchased a CMB Gold head from a Dist3 racer and was told that it had new bearings installed.

I can't get the boat to run more than 3-4 laps before it just stops as if though something broke or the plug went bad, but as soon as I get it back to the stand it fires back up as if though nothing is wrong and runs 3-5 laps and then repeats the same scenario again.

I am running 40% nitro, pipe is set at 10 1/2", fuel tank is a 10 oz Sullivan tank, have tried a 450-2 and 450-3 Octura both seemed to work fine. Any help will be appreciated.

Please post or email me pics of your PT Sport 40 setups ( hull with radio box mid ship under exhaust), and third ch setup. ([email protected])

Thanks

Garson

 

[Hydro Junkie]

I'd start by looking at the fuel system. Are you running exhaust pressure to the tank(s)? Are you running a sump tank between the main tank(s) and the carb? these are things we need to know to be able to help you. Pictures would be nice as well.

 

[Lay26]

if the needle setting is too lean it will do what you r describing, also you need to go through the fuel system with a fine tooth comb it could be a fuel draw issue.

one thing that came to my attension when i watched Grim(Mike Z) build a metal tank for the JAE 12 was the fact that he stated the pick up tube inside the tank should not touch any part of the bottom or the side of the tank. u may not be running a metal tank but i think that principal is universal. check motor head clearance too.

 

[SayMikey]

Go back to the strut area,can you see any where water can enter the rear of the boat there? If you can seal the area real good using RTV.. Ive seen this many times in sport 40 and scale boats. A hole around the strut will spray water all the way up to the motor causing it to stall in a couple laps

 

[Bill Gibson]

Go back to the strut area,can you see any where water can enter the rear of the boat there? If you can seal the area real good using RTV.. Ive seen this many times in sport 40 and scale boats. A hole around the strut will spray water all the way up to the motor causing it to stall in a couple laps

ABSOLUTLY! It happened with my SS-45...the boat literally filled up with water in 2-3 laps..and STALLED! After I sealed it up, ESPECIALLY around the strut, it never happened again!

 

[FloridaScaleBoater]

HELPPPPPPP I have a PT Sport 40 that I have had 3 motors in it and am now on my forth. I purchased a CMB Gold head from a Dist3 racer and was told that it had new bearings installed.

I can't get the boat to run more than 3-4 laps before it just stops as if though something broke or the plug went bad, but as soon as I get it back to the stand it fires back up as if though nothing is wrong and runs 3-5 laps and then repeats the same scenario again.

I am running 40% nitro, pipe is set at 10 1/2", fuel tank is a 10 oz Sullivan tank, have tried a 450-2 and 450-3 Octura both seemed to work fine. Any help will be appreciated.

Please post or email me pics of your PT Sport 40 setups ( hull with radio box mid ship under exhaust), and third ch setup. ([email protected])

Thanks

Garson

Garson, sent you a PM

 

[P THOMAS]

Go back to the strut area,can you see any where water can enter the rear of the boat there? If you can seal the area real good using RTV.. Ive seen this many times in sport 40 and scale boats. A hole around the strut will spray water all the way up to the motor causing it to stall in a couple laps

HA I bet mikey gets the prize. Try running the boat with out the cowl and see what happen too. You may see a stream of water shoot up.

Next thing is the radio. I had a reciever that would work just fine range check but glitch and turn the carb to stop the motor in abut the same place on the lake.

 

[GarsonConnor]

Thanks guys fpr all your help and suggestions. I will test each suggestion and update, in the mean time here are a few pics.

Garson

 

[Ray Sametz]

Had the same problem for a whole season, tried all of the above and more. My problem, Phil touched on it. Only had 4.8 volt pack up in front radio box because of size, the fail safe was closing carb after 2-3 laps. Made a custom 6V pack to fit, problem solved, runs all day.

 

[GarsonConnor]

I have a brand new 1100mah 6v 5cell hump pack .

Are you running a sump tank between the main tank(s) and the carb? these are things we need to know to be able to help you. Pictures would be nice as well.

I was wondering if I needed a sump tank. Pics added

Garson

 

[M@MRacing]

Garson have Noel Sang build you a tank he has a sump tank built in , i check the one i have here it is to big for your boat else i give it to you.

 

[P THOMAS]

Glue a block behind that tank to keep it from blocking the carb, as it runs it could move back. A new metal tank with a sump would work, walt Barney Tanks2U has the pattern for that boat. A 14 oz dubro with the stopper at the front works ok too. You can shoe goo a 1 oz on top of the main tank to use as a hopper.

 

[Bill Gibson]

I use a SS14 tank in mine...no hopper..I let 30 seconds burn off the clock to be safe and always come back with fuel...kinda close, but no problems so far...im guessing a Cmb 45 Cam might be a little easier on fuel than my MAC....maybe?

 

[ALLAN YUEN]

Look bad CMB needle valve cause rust also slant tank may not propery pick up brass tube ( which one left and right side) inside vent from pressure ? h34r: why do you not use 3rd ch remote valve ?

 

[glenng]

Thanks guys fpr all your help and suggestions. I will test each suggestion and update, in the mean time here are a few pics.

Garson

The carb looks very close to the tank Garson. If you can't shove the tank farther fwd. get a flex tank and soften up the front with a heat shrink gun to clear the cowl. The few P.T. spt 40's I've seen have the main tank in the starboard side of the hull(near the balance point). I think a hopper tank would be a good idea. Once the fuel starts getting low it may start sloshing around and getting air bubbles in the fuel. I have a 60 size hydro that shows the same symptoms- slows after about 4 laps(16 oz main/ no hopper). Just my .02c

Glenn

 

[GarsonConnor]

Glue a block behind that tank to keep it from blocking the carb, as it runs it could move back. A new metal tank with a sump would work, walt Barney Tanks2U has the pattern for that boat. A 14 oz dubro with the stopper at the front works ok too. You can shoe goo a 1 oz on top of the main tank to use as a hopper.

The tank is glued in securely , it is a 10 oz Sullivan. I could not get anything larger because the cowl would not close. I have been waiting on spending $80-100 on a tank only to find out that this was not the problem.

Garson

 

[GarsonConnor]

Thanks guys fpr all your help and suggestions. I will test each suggestion and update, in the mean time here are a few pics.

Garson

The carb looks very close to the tank Garson. If you can't shove the tank farther fwd. get a flex tank and soften up the front with a heat shrink gun to clear the cowl. The few P.T. spt 40's I've seen have the main tank in the starboard side of the hull(near the balance point). I think a hopper tank would be a good idea. Once the fuel starts getting low it may start sloshing around and getting air bubbles in the fuel. I have a 60 size hydro that shows the same symptoms- slows after about 4 laps(16 oz main/ no hopper). Just my .02c

Glenn

The tank is as far forward as I can get it and still close the cowl.

Flex tank ????

 

[Bill Gibson]

Thanks guys fpr all your help and suggestions. I will test each suggestion and update, in the mean time here are a few pics.

Garson

The carb looks very close to the tank Garson. If you can't shove the tank farther fwd. get a flex tank and soften up the front with a heat shrink gun to clear the cowl. The few P.T. spt 40's I've seen have the main tank in the starboard side of the hull(near the balance point). I think a hopper tank would be a good idea. Once the fuel starts getting low it may start sloshing around and getting air bubbles in the fuel. I have a 60 size hydro that shows the same symptoms- slows after about 4 laps(16 oz main/ no hopper). Just my .02c

Glenn

The tank is as far forward as I can get it and still close the cowl.

Flex tank ????

Looks just like a standard tank dimesion wise but is made of a somewhat clear soft plastic... as Glenn said, you can use a heat gun to CAREFULLY to shape it to fit under the cowl....when it cools it holds the shape you made....reasonably cheap fix! It really is a good idea to use a hopper tank, though i havent put one in my boat....yet!

 

[GarsonConnor]

Thanks guys fpr all your help and suggestions. I will test each suggestion and update, in the mean time here are a few pics.

Garson

The carb looks very close to the tank Garson. If you can't shove the tank farther fwd. get a flex tank and soften up the front with a heat shrink gun to clear the cowl. The few P.T. spt 40's I've seen have the main tank in the starboard side of the hull(near the balance point). I think a hopper tank would be a good idea. Once the fuel starts getting low it may start sloshing around and getting air bubbles in the fuel. I have a 60 size hydro that shows the same symptoms- slows after about 4 laps(16 oz main/ no hopper). Just my .02c

Glenn

The tank is as far forward as I can get it and still close the cowl.

Flex tank ????

Looks just like a standard tank dimesion wise but is made of a somewhat clear soft plastic... as Glenn said, you can use a heat gun to CAREFULLY to shape it to fit under the cowl....when it cools it holds the shape you made....reasonably cheap fix! It really is a good idea to use a hopper tank, though i havent put one in my boat....yet!

It really is a good idea to use a hopper tank, though i havent put one in my boat....yet!

:lol: :lol:

 

[SayMikey]

Thanks guys fpr all your help and suggestions. I will test each suggestion and update, in the mean time here are a few pics.

Garson

The carb looks very close to the tank Garson. If you can't shove the tank farther fwd. get a flex tank and soften up the front with a heat shrink gun to clear the cowl. The few P.T. spt 40's I've seen have the main tank in the starboard side of the hull(near the balance point). I think a hopper tank would be a good idea. Once the fuel starts getting low it may start sloshing around and getting air bubbles in the fuel. I have a 60 size hydro that shows the same symptoms- slows after about 4 laps(16 oz main/ no hopper). Just my .02c

Glenn

The tank is as far forward as I can get it and still close the cowl.

Flex tank ????

Looks just like a standard tank dimesion wise but is made of a somewhat clear soft plastic... as Glenn said, you can use a heat gun to CAREFULLY to shape it to fit under the cowl....when it cools it holds the shape you made....reasonably cheap fix! It really is a good idea to use a hopper tank, though i havent put one in my boat....yet!

It really is a good idea to use a hopper tank, though i havent put one in my boat....yet!

:lol: :lol:

Show us a pic of the strut from inside the boat looking straight down