Sport 20

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We have a winner for my new sport 20 .It is a Whiplash with a Nova Rossi !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Waltr Thanks for the photos that helps out alot ! Thanks to all for the help !
 
Last edited by a moderator:
We have a winner for my new sport 20 .It is a Whiplash with a Nova Rossi !!!!!!!!!!!!!!Waltr Thanks for the photos that helps out alot ! Thanks to all for the help !
might want to slow up a bit there, ..check out this new design.. not tested yet but it sure looks fast ..lol , not sure of the builder but he is a really good looking fella..lol. :D

tk

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/12376126..._378_436257.jpg

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/12376126...9_378_27232.jpg

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/12376126..._378_153502.jpg
 
We have a winner for my new sport 20 .It is a Whiplash with a Nova Rossi !!!!!!!!!!!!!!Waltr Thanks for the photos that helps out alot ! Thanks to all for the help !
might want to slow up a bit there, ..check out this new design.. not tested yet but it sure looks fast ..lol , not sure of the builder but he is a really good looking fella..lol. :D

tk

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/12376126..._378_436257.jpg

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/12376126...9_378_27232.jpg

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/12376126..._378_153502.jpg
Nice boat but where is your turn fin? :p
 
We have a winner for my new sport 20 .It is a Whiplash with a Nova Rossi !!!!!!!!!!!!!!Waltr Thanks for the photos that helps out alot ! Thanks to all for the help !
might want to slow up a bit there, ..check out this new design.. not tested yet but it sure looks fast ..lol , not sure of the builder but he is a really good looking fella..lol. :D

tk

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/12376126..._378_436257.jpg

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/12376126...9_378_27232.jpg

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/12376126..._378_153502.jpg
Nice boat but where is your turn fin? :p
funny allan ..lol a trained eye like yours would see it is about 80 percent done.. :p the only change i think i need to make to keep it away from the "modified rigger" name is add the corner pieces to the ends of the sponsons to make them blend and im going to lower the nose a bit in front and make a nice stainless tank to fill the area. when it is done ill post more pics to show and the turn fin will be a secret..lol

tk

tk
 
We have a winner for my new sport 20 .It is a Whiplash with a Nova Rossi !!!!!!!!!!!!!!Waltr Thanks for the photos that helps out alot ! Thanks to all for the help !
might want to slow up a bit there, ..check out this new design.. not tested yet but it sure looks fast ..lol , not sure of the builder but he is a really good looking fella..lol. :D

tk

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/12376126..._378_436257.jpg

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/12376126...9_378_27232.jpg

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/12376126..._378_153502.jpg
Nice boat but where is your turn fin? :p
funny allan ..lol a trained eye like yours would see it is about 80 percent done.. :p the only change i think i need to make to keep it away from the "modified rigger" name is add the corner pieces to the ends of the sponsons to make them blend and im going to lower the nose a bit in front and make a nice stainless tank to fill the area. when it is done ill post more pics to show and the turn fin will be a secret..lol

tk

tk
I hate to say this Terry but this boat has modified rigger wrote all over it. It will never pass in IMPBA. But very nice work.
 
We have a winner for my new sport 20 .It is a Whiplash with a Nova Rossi !!!!!!!!!!!!!!Waltr Thanks for the photos that helps out alot ! Thanks to all for the help !
might want to slow up a bit there, ..check out this new design.. not tested yet but it sure looks fast ..lol , not sure of the builder but he is a really good looking fella..lol. :D

tk

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/12376126..._378_436257.jpg

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/12376126...9_378_27232.jpg

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/12376126..._378_153502.jpg
Nice boat but where is your turn fin? :p
funny allan ..lol a trained eye like yours would see it is about 80 percent done.. :p the only change i think i need to make to keep it away from the "modified rigger" name is add the corner pieces to the ends of the sponsons to make them blend and im going to lower the nose a bit in front and make a nice stainless tank to fill the area. when it is done ill post more pics to show and the turn fin will be a secret..lol

tk

tk
I hate to say this Terry but this boat has modified rigger wrote all over it. It will never pass in IMPBA. But very nice work.
may i ask reasoning why it will not pass, it has all the demensions in the impba rules, as far as depth of the sponson cutout area, length, and since they are vauge on the modified outrigger wording , to me it looks like a current running hydroplane closer than a whip or anyother squarenose looking boat, all hydros running today have canopies that are rounded and some have ran crazy shaped sponsons on them as well, like the lobster boat..which i belive is still a 3 pt hydro .. something else this is. it has no adjustablility for the sponsons like a rigger, i have not even installed airtraps yet on it as i may not run them. it uses a current production cowling that i make and has a transom exit exhaust unlike most other sport hydros i see in production...so i am just asking what you think it needs to make it legal? not trying to start a wizzing match, just looking for pointers as this is my first ground up build..designing and all. and one other thing the sponsons are attatched and the little step in the top of them can be made level with the top of the deck and the corners tied in , i made the sponsons first then attatched them as i wanted to perfect the shape first and didnt sheet them all together.

terry
 
We have a winner for my new sport 20 .It is a Whiplash with a Nova Rossi !!!!!!!!!!!!!!Waltr Thanks for the photos that helps out alot ! Thanks to all for the help !
might want to slow up a bit there, ..check out this new design.. not tested yet but it sure looks fast ..lol , not sure of the builder but he is a really good looking fella..lol. :D

tk

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/12376126..._378_436257.jpg

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/12376126...9_378_27232.jpg

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/12376126..._378_153502.jpg
Nice boat but where is your turn fin? :p
funny allan ..lol a trained eye like yours would see it is about 80 percent done.. :p the only change i think i need to make to keep it away from the "modified rigger" name is add the corner pieces to the ends of the sponsons to make them blend and im going to lower the nose a bit in front and make a nice stainless tank to fill the area. when it is done ill post more pics to show and the turn fin will be a secret..lol

tk

tk
I hate to say this Terry but this boat has modified rigger wrote all over it. It will never pass in IMPBA. But very nice work.
Im the first to say that i dont know IMPBA rules...but i feel the need to defend that design a little bit in that if the sponsons are not adjustable and the picklefork isnt to deep and it sure looks like a 3 point hydro to me....then other than whatever the go/no go dimensions are, its got to be close to being legal....there are so many full size limited inboard hydroplane designs out there that have bits and pieces of that design (the model).....Im not trying to be a jerk about this at all as i personally prefer older designs....i still have a sport 20 with an open cockpit w/driver..and im trying to build another as a conventional/ picklefork 70s style. That IS a cool lookin boat either way!
 
We have a winner for my new sport 20 .It is a Whiplash with a Nova Rossi !!!!!!!!!!!!!!Waltr Thanks for the photos that helps out alot ! Thanks to all for the help !
might want to slow up a bit there, ..check out this new design.. not tested yet but it sure looks fast ..lol , not sure of the builder but he is a really good looking fella..lol. :D

tk

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/12376126..._378_436257.jpg

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/12376126...9_378_27232.jpg

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/12376126..._378_153502.jpg
Nice boat but where is your turn fin? :p
funny allan ..lol a trained eye like yours would see it is about 80 percent done.. :p the only change i think i need to make to keep it away from the "modified rigger" name is add the corner pieces to the ends of the sponsons to make them blend and im going to lower the nose a bit in front and make a nice stainless tank to fill the area. when it is done ill post more pics to show and the turn fin will be a secret..lol

tk

tk
I hate to say this Terry but this boat has modified rigger wrote all over it. It will never pass in IMPBA. But very nice work.
Im the first to say that i dont know IMPBA rules...but i feel the need to defend that design a little bit in that if the sponsons are not adjustable and the picklefork isnt to deep and it sure looks like a 3 point hydro to me....then other than whatever the go/no go dimensions are, its got to be close to being legal....there are so many full size limited inboard hydroplane designs out there that have bits and pieces of that design (the model).....Im not trying to be a jerk about this at all as i personally prefer older designs....i still have a sport 20 with an open cockpit w/driver..and im trying to build another as a conventional/ picklefork 70s style. That IS a cool lookin boat either way!
thanks guys keep the suggestions coming... i really hope to not hijack this here thread , but i sounds like chris is settled on a design that is proven .. so if this needs moved hopefully mr. ferrette or tom will move it for me, thanks guys.

terry
 
We have a winner for my new sport 20 .It is a Whiplash with a Nova Rossi !!!!!!!!!!!!!!Waltr Thanks for the photos that helps out alot ! Thanks to all for the help !
might want to slow up a bit there, ..check out this new design.. not tested yet but it sure looks fast ..lol , not sure of the builder but he is a really good looking fella..lol. :D

tk

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/12376126..._378_436257.jpg

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/12376126...9_378_27232.jpg

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/12376126..._378_153502.jpg
Nice boat but where is your turn fin? :p
funny allan ..lol a trained eye like yours would see it is about 80 percent done.. :p the only change i think i need to make to keep it away from the "modified rigger" name is add the corner pieces to the ends of the sponsons to make them blend and im going to lower the nose a bit in front and make a nice stainless tank to fill the area. when it is done ill post more pics to show and the turn fin will be a secret..lol

tk

tk
I hate to say this Terry but this boat has modified rigger wrote all over it. It will never pass in IMPBA. But very nice work.
may i ask reasoning why it will not pass, it has all the demensions in the impba rules, as far as depth of the sponson cutout area, length, and since they are vauge on the modified outrigger wording , to me it looks like a current running hydroplane closer than a whip or anyother squarenose looking boat, all hydros running today have canopies that are rounded and some have ran crazy shaped sponsons on them as well, like the lobster boat..which i belive is still a 3 pt hydro .. something else this is. it has no adjustablility for the sponsons like a rigger, i have not even installed airtraps yet on it as i may not run them. it uses a current production cowling that i make and has a transom exit exhaust unlike most other sport hydros i see in production...so i am just asking what you think it needs to make it legal? not trying to start a wizzing match, just looking for pointers as this is my first ground up build..designing and all. and one other thing the sponsons are attatched and the little step in the top of them can be made level with the top of the deck and the corners tied in , i made the sponsons first then attatched them as i wanted to perfect the shape first and didnt sheet them all together.

terry

Terry,

The rule that gets you on this boat is in the "Technical Standards" page K 7. The rule reads;

a. 3-Point Suspension Hull: Will have two individual steps separated by a continuous

"hull". These steps shall terminate at or before "hull" midpoint. The hull must be

continuous with no steps or extra planning surfaces aft of hull midpoint. Air trap devices

shall be a maximum of .125" across the bottom surface for engine class B or larger with

no restriction on depth. Airfoils, wings, air dams, ground effects devices, etc., shall have

no limitation, considering no hydrodynamic support is gained from the device. See Nitro

Special Classes, “Sportsman Hydro” for Additional Specialized class boat specifications.

The word is "Continuous Hull". Your sponsons mount onto short mounts that are built into and are mounted to the tub/hull. What you have done is the same thing as covering a set of sponson tubes with a airfoil shape to cover them, thus the word "Modified Rigger". You can not just connect the sponsons with a top deck to cover the mounting because the sponsons must be connected at the bottom also.

When you look up the Sport classes the rules will lead you back to this rule in the Technical Standards.

I do feel that the older Blazzer boats are pushing this rule also but no on has protested them. Have not seen the new ones so I cannot say on them.

It always helps to read the rule book before you build. Hope this helps you in building your boats and yes you have done a great job, nice build.
 
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Continuous Hull would be anything with out space between the sponons and center hull.

looks like it has a hull bottom from sponson to sponson, so how is this not ok?

Terry post the pictures on a new thread. show the bottom too. Like to discuss it more?
 
Continuous Hull would be anything with out space between the sponons and center hull. looks like it has a hull bottom from sponson to sponson, so how is this not ok?

Terry post the pictures on a new thread. show the bottom too. Like to discuss it more?
Hi Phil,

Makes for a good discussion. What we are talking about is the side profile of the hull. If you look at his pictures the hull/tub has block areas made into it for the sponsons to mount on off the main hull. These block areas stop before the end of the sponsons.

Continuous is the key word in the rule. Continuous means not to be broken. If you draw a straight line on paper it is a continuous line. If you stop the line and restart it is no longer a coninuous line, because it has an intersect. On his boat the hull has a 90 degree turn for a distance to connect to the sponson.

Now your Sport 40 boat has the sponson mounted on the continuous hull. You put a step or cutout in the running surface of your sponson but the inside plate of the sponson can still be seen connected to the hull. This is how your boat meets the rule. On the older Blazer boat they have sort of the same type of hull that Terry has built and the way it is hid is by the top deck. This is why I feel that the Blazer boat has fell thru the cracks with our rules.
 
Continuous Hull would be anything with out space between the sponons and center hull. looks like it has a hull bottom from sponson to sponson, so how is this not ok?

Terry post the pictures on a new thread. show the bottom too. Like to discuss it more?
Hi Phil,

Makes for a good discussion. What we are talking about is the side profile of the hull. If you look at his pictures the hull/tub has block areas made into it for the sponsons to mount on off the main hull. These block areas stop before the end of the sponsons.

Continuous is the key word in the rule. Continuous means not to be broken. If you draw a straight line on paper it is a continuous line. If you stop the line and restart it is no longer a coninuous line, because it has an intersect. On his boat the hull has a 90 degree turn for a distance to connect to the sponson.

Now your Sport 40 boat has the sponson mounted on the continuous hull. You put a step or cutout in the running surface of your sponson but the inside plate of the sponson can still be seen connected to the hull. This is how your boat meets the rule. On the older Blazer boat they have sort of the same type of hull that Terry has built and the way it is hid is by the top deck. This is why I feel that the Blazer boat has fell thru the cracks with our rules.
So if the wing block goes past the sponson rear it would work, the whole sponson would be mounted to the hull that way.
 
Continuous Hull would be anything with out space between the sponons and center hull. looks like it has a hull bottom from sponson to sponson, so how is this not ok?

Terry post the pictures on a new thread. show the bottom too. Like to discuss it more?
Hi Phil,

Makes for a good discussion. What we are talking about is the side profile of the hull. If you look at his pictures the hull/tub has block areas made into it for the sponsons to mount on off the main hull. These block areas stop before the end of the sponsons.

Continuous is the key word in the rule. Continuous means not to be broken. If you draw a straight line on paper it is a continuous line. If you stop the line and restart it is no longer a coninuous line, because it has an intersect. On his boat the hull has a 90 degree turn for a distance to connect to the sponson.

Now your Sport 40 boat has the sponson mounted on the continuous hull. You put a step or cutout in the running surface of your sponson but the inside plate of the sponson can still be seen connected to the hull. This is how your boat meets the rule. On the older Blazer boat they have sort of the same type of hull that Terry has built and the way it is hid is by the top deck. This is why I feel that the Blazer boat has fell thru the cracks with our rules.
So if the wing block goes past the sponson rear it would work, the whole sponson would be mounted to the hull that way.
Only if it was feather back to the transom at what ever angle that would be. You see by mounting the sponson on a wing block that connects to the tub you are creating a sponson mount just like a tube or wing like the old "WingDing". For instance if I took one of my riggers and covered the tubes with a wing or made the wings into the tub and remove the rears could I call it a Sport Hydro? We both know the answer to that one.

This is a good discussion on this. I think it helps members understand what a true 3 point hydro is and what is a modified rigger.
 
Continuous Hull would be anything with out space between the sponons and center hull. looks like it has a hull bottom from sponson to sponson, so how is this not ok?

Terry post the pictures on a new thread. show the bottom too. Like to discuss it more?
Hi Phil,

Makes for a good discussion. What we are talking about is the side profile of the hull. If you look at his pictures the hull/tub has block areas made into it for the sponsons to mount on off the main hull. These block areas stop before the end of the sponsons.

Continuous is the key word in the rule. Continuous means not to be broken. If you draw a straight line on paper it is a continuous line. If you stop the line and restart it is no longer a coninuous line, because it has an intersect. On his boat the hull has a 90 degree turn for a distance to connect to the sponson.

Now your Sport 40 boat has the sponson mounted on the continuous hull. You put a step or cutout in the running surface of your sponson but the inside plate of the sponson can still be seen connected to the hull. This is how your boat meets the rule. On the older Blazer boat they have sort of the same type of hull that Terry has built and the way it is hid is by the top deck. This is why I feel that the Blazer boat has fell thru the cracks with our rules.
So if the wing block goes past the sponson rear it would work, the whole sponson would be mounted to the hull that way.
Only if it was feather back to the transom at what ever angle that would be. You see by mounting the sponson on a wing block that connects to the tub you are creating a sponson mount just like a tube or wing like the old "WingDing". For instance if I took one of my riggers and covered the tubes with a wing or made the wings into the tub and remove the rears could I call it a Sport Hydro? We both know the answer to that one.

This is a good discussion on this. I think it helps members understand what a true 3 point hydro is and what is a modified rigger.

Okay, im just throwing in my 2 cents cause the discussion is fun, so im just doing this for the heck of it, cause your probably right....but a 3 point hydro doesnt care whether the sponsons are directly connected to it or not...there are 3 areas of contact to the water....the 69 paynpak unlimited hydro was an outrigger,but i belive it was still a 3 point hydroplane....unless you mean a "classic" 3 point hydroplane..if thats the case then why are you allowed to mount the strut on the back of the transom instead of thru the floor? Because newer full size hydroplanes do just that....what about full size hydros with removable drop sponsons? Those are 3 point hydros for sure....As i said before I Prefer sport hydros that look like the older full size boats...this is the last class that should look like a "spec class" to me... thats the fun of the rules from either sanctioning body being somewhat loose, but we cant ignore the technology that comes with the full size modern inboard hydroplane...I also run a 20 whip and a PT SS45 which are both fairly "modern hulls, though Phils boat has been around for a while.im just throwing different points of view out there purely for the fun of it...If im wrong about any of my statements i will gladly own up to to it, lord knows it wont be the first time by a long shot! GREAT Discussion!
 
Continuous Hull would be anything with out space between the sponons and center hull. looks like it has a hull bottom from sponson to sponson, so how is this not ok?

Terry post the pictures on a new thread. show the bottom too. Like to discuss it more?
Hi Phil,

Makes for a good discussion. What we are talking about is the side profile of the hull. If you look at his pictures the hull/tub has block areas made into it for the sponsons to mount on off the main hull. These block areas stop before the end of the sponsons.

Continuous is the key word in the rule. Continuous means not to be broken. If you draw a straight line on paper it is a continuous line. If you stop the line and restart it is no longer a coninuous line, because it has an intersect. On his boat the hull has a 90 degree turn for a distance to connect to the sponson.

Now your Sport 40 boat has the sponson mounted on the continuous hull. You put a step or cutout in the running surface of your sponson but the inside plate of the sponson can still be seen connected to the hull. This is how your boat meets the rule. On the older Blazer boat they have sort of the same type of hull that Terry has built and the way it is hid is by the top deck. This is why I feel that the Blazer boat has fell thru the cracks with our rules.
So if the wing block goes past the sponson rear it would work, the whole sponson would be mounted to the hull that way.
Only if it was feather back to the transom at what ever angle that would be. You see by mounting the sponson on a wing block that connects to the tub you are creating a sponson mount just like a tube or wing like the old "WingDing". For instance if I took one of my riggers and covered the tubes with a wing or made the wings into the tub and remove the rears could I call it a Sport Hydro? We both know the answer to that one.

This is a good discussion on this. I think it helps members understand what a true 3 point hydro is and what is a modified rigger.

Okay, im just throwing in my 2 cents cause the discussion is fun, so im just doing this for the heck of it, cause your probably right....but a 3 point hydro doesnt care whether the sponsons are directly connected to it or not...there are 3 areas of contact to the water....the 69 paynpak unlimited hydro was an outrigger,but i belive it was still a 3 point hydroplane....unless you mean a "classic" 3 point hydroplane..if thats the case then why are you allowed to mount the strut on the back of the transom instead of thru the floor? Because newer full size hydroplanes do just that....what about full size hydros with removable drop sponsons? Those are 3 point hydros for sure....As i said before I Prefer sport hydros that look like the older full size boats...this is the last class that should look like a "spec class" to me... thats the fun of the rules from either sanctioning body being somewhat loose, but we cant ignore the technology that comes with the full size modern inboard hydroplane...I also run a 20 whip and a PT SS45 which are both fairly "modern hulls, though Phils boat has been around for a while.im just throwing different points of view out there purely for the fun of it...If im wrong about any of my statements i will gladly own up to to it, lord knows it wont be the first time by a long shot! GREAT Discussion!
Mark

Thanks for Your interpretation of the rules.

I think if it has a solid full body between the hull and sponson it is a sport hydro.

" For instance if I took one of my riggers and covered the tubes with a wing or made the wings into the tub and remove the rears could I call it a Sport Hydro? We both know the answer to that one. "

You could do that but it probally would run like crap.
 
Continuous Hull would be anything with out space between the sponons and center hull. looks like it has a hull bottom from sponson to sponson, so how is this not ok?

Terry post the pictures on a new thread. show the bottom too. Like to discuss it more?
Hi Phil,

Makes for a good discussion. What we are talking about is the side profile of the hull. If you look at his pictures the hull/tub has block areas made into it for the sponsons to mount on off the main hull. These block areas stop before the end of the sponsons.

Continuous is the key word in the rule. Continuous means not to be broken. If you draw a straight line on paper it is a continuous line. If you stop the line and restart it is no longer a coninuous line, because it has an intersect. On his boat the hull has a 90 degree turn for a distance to connect to the sponson.

Now your Sport 40 boat has the sponson mounted on the continuous hull. You put a step or cutout in the running surface of your sponson but the inside plate of the sponson can still be seen connected to the hull. This is how your boat meets the rule. On the older Blazer boat they have sort of the same type of hull that Terry has built and the way it is hid is by the top deck. This is why I feel that the Blazer boat has fell thru the cracks with our rules.
HMMM might ought to send some pics to the Technical Chairman for confirmation. ........ Mark the newest Blazer hulls are all IMPBA Legal. Dont know about the old ones.....Mike
 
Continuous Hull would be anything with out space between the sponons and center hull. looks like it has a hull bottom from sponson to sponson, so how is this not ok?

Terry post the pictures on a new thread. show the bottom too. Like to discuss it more?
Hi Phil,

Makes for a good discussion. What we are talking about is the side profile of the hull. If you look at his pictures the hull/tub has block areas made into it for the sponsons to mount on off the main hull. These block areas stop before the end of the sponsons.

Continuous is the key word in the rule. Continuous means not to be broken. If you draw a straight line on paper it is a continuous line. If you stop the line and restart it is no longer a coninuous line, because it has an intersect. On his boat the hull has a 90 degree turn for a distance to connect to the sponson.

Now your Sport 40 boat has the sponson mounted on the continuous hull. You put a step or cutout in the running surface of your sponson but the inside plate of the sponson can still be seen connected to the hull. This is how your boat meets the rule. On the older Blazer boat they have sort of the same type of hull that Terry has built and the way it is hid is by the top deck. This is why I feel that the Blazer boat has fell thru the cracks with our rules.
So if the wing block goes past the sponson rear it would work, the whole sponson would be mounted to the hull that way.
Only if it was feather back to the transom at what ever angle that would be. You see by mounting the sponson on a wing block that connects to the tub you are creating a sponson mount just like a tube or wing like the old "WingDing". For instance if I took one of my riggers and covered the tubes with a wing or made the wings into the tub and remove the rears could I call it a Sport Hydro? We both know the answer to that one.

This is a good discussion on this. I think it helps members understand what a true 3 point hydro is and what is a modified rigger.

Okay, im just throwing in my 2 cents cause the discussion is fun, so im just doing this for the heck of it, cause your probably right....but a 3 point hydro doesnt care whether the sponsons are directly connected to it or not...there are 3 areas of contact to the water....the 69 paynpak unlimited hydro was an outrigger,but i belive it was still a 3 point hydroplane....unless you mean a "classic" 3 point hydroplane..if thats the case then why are you allowed to mount the strut on the back of the transom instead of thru the floor? Because newer full size hydroplanes do just that....what about full size hydros with removable drop sponsons? Those are 3 point hydros for sure....As i said before I Prefer sport hydros that look like the older full size boats...this is the last class that should look like a "spec class" to me... thats the fun of the rules from either sanctioning body being somewhat loose, but we cant ignore the technology that comes with the full size modern inboard hydroplane...I also run a 20 whip and a PT SS45 which are both fairly "modern hulls, though Phils boat has been around for a while.im just throwing different points of view out there purely for the fun of it...If im wrong about any of my statements i will gladly own up to to it, lord knows it wont be the first time by a long shot! GREAT Discussion!

Remember Bill this is a Sport Class. The boats were loosely designed after the early boats of the 1970's. There is no scale at all in this class also. I know that the first Sport 40 kit that I saw was the Dumas Atlas Van Line. I built one in the late 70's. Found out later that no one ran the class in those days. And if I had my guess, that Phil Thomas is the grandfather of the Sport 40 class as we know today in IMPBA. I like Phil's boat and have ran one in past years. Told him when I got the boat that I like to build wood boats but did not want to take the time to build one. The first generation Sport 40 & 20's that I built had a hard time staying on the water. But I learned from that and the second generation sport 20's were a better boat. I took the one that Doc painted and ran almost 62 MPH at the Huntsville record trial last November. Building the third generation boats now. I did a build on the Sport 40 boat a few months ago.
 
Continuous Hull would be anything with out space between the sponons and center hull. looks like it has a hull bottom from sponson to sponson, so how is this not ok?

Terry post the pictures on a new thread. show the bottom too. Like to discuss it more?
Hi Phil,

Makes for a good discussion. What we are talking about is the side profile of the hull. If you look at his pictures the hull/tub has block areas made into it for the sponsons to mount on off the main hull. These block areas stop before the end of the sponsons.

Continuous is the key word in the rule. Continuous means not to be broken. If you draw a straight line on paper it is a continuous line. If you stop the line and restart it is no longer a coninuous line, because it has an intersect. On his boat the hull has a 90 degree turn for a distance to connect to the sponson.

Now your Sport 40 boat has the sponson mounted on the continuous hull. You put a step or cutout in the running surface of your sponson but the inside plate of the sponson can still be seen connected to the hull. This is how your boat meets the rule. On the older Blazer boat they have sort of the same type of hull that Terry has built and the way it is hid is by the top deck. This is why I feel that the Blazer boat has fell thru the cracks with our rules.
HMMM might ought to send some pics to the Technical Chairman for confirmation. ........ Mark the newest Blazer hulls are all IMPBA Legal. Dont know about the old ones.....Mike
That was what I was talking about. Don't know myself on the new ones but was talking of the old ones.
 
Continuous Hull would be anything with out space between the sponons and center hull. looks like it has a hull bottom from sponson to sponson, so how is this not ok?

Terry post the pictures on a new thread. show the bottom too. Like to discuss it more?
Hi Phil,

Makes for a good discussion. What we are talking about is the side profile of the hull. If you look at his pictures the hull/tub has block areas made into it for the sponsons to mount on off the main hull. These block areas stop before the end of the sponsons.

Continuous is the key word in the rule. Continuous means not to be broken. If you draw a straight line on paper it is a continuous line. If you stop the line and restart it is no longer a coninuous line, because it has an intersect. On his boat the hull has a 90 degree turn for a distance to connect to the sponson.

Now your Sport 40 boat has the sponson mounted on the continuous hull. You put a step or cutout in the running surface of your sponson but the inside plate of the sponson can still be seen connected to the hull. This is how your boat meets the rule. On the older Blazer boat they have sort of the same type of hull that Terry has built and the way it is hid is by the top deck. This is why I feel that the Blazer boat has fell thru the cracks with our rules.
So if the wing block goes past the sponson rear it would work, the whole sponson would be mounted to the hull that way.
Only if it was feather back to the transom at what ever angle that would be. You see by mounting the sponson on a wing block that connects to the tub you are creating a sponson mount just like a tube or wing like the old "WingDing". For instance if I took one of my riggers and covered the tubes with a wing or made the wings into the tub and remove the rears could I call it a Sport Hydro? We both know the answer to that one.

This is a good discussion on this. I think it helps members understand what a true 3 point hydro is and what is a modified rigger.

Okay, im just throwing in my 2 cents cause the discussion is fun, so im just doing this for the heck of it, cause your probably right....but a 3 point hydro doesnt care whether the sponsons are directly connected to it or not...there are 3 areas of contact to the water....the 69 paynpak unlimited hydro was an outrigger,but i belive it was still a 3 point hydroplane....unless you mean a "classic" 3 point hydroplane..if thats the case then why are you allowed to mount the strut on the back of the transom instead of thru the floor? Because newer full size hydroplanes do just that....what about full size hydros with removable drop sponsons? Those are 3 point hydros for sure....As i said before I Prefer sport hydros that look like the older full size boats...this is the last class that should look like a "spec class" to me... thats the fun of the rules from either sanctioning body being somewhat loose, but we cant ignore the technology that comes with the full size modern inboard hydroplane...I also run a 20 whip and a PT SS45 which are both fairly "modern hulls, though Phils boat has been around for a while.im just throwing different points of view out there purely for the fun of it...If im wrong about any of my statements i will gladly own up to to it, lord knows it wont be the first time by a long shot! GREAT Discussion!

Remember Bill this is a Sport Class. The boats were loosely designed after the early boats of the 1970's. There is no scale at all in this class also. I know that the first Sport 40 kit that I saw was the Dumas Atlas Van Line. I built one in the late 70's. Found out later that no one ran the class in those days. And if I had my guess, that Phil Thomas is the grandfather of the Sport 40 class as we know today in IMPBA. I like Phil's boat and have ran one in past years. Told him when I got the boat that I like to build wood boats but did not want to take the time to build one. The first generation Sport 40 & 20's that I built had a hard time staying on the water. But I learned from that and the second generation sport 20's were a better boat. I took the one that Doc painted and ran almost 62 MPH at the Huntsville record trial last November. Building the third generation boats now. I did a build on the Sport 40 boat a few months ago.
Absolutly Mark...I built the same boat and the darn thing was so narrow that if you sneezed it HOOKED! Because this is a sport class, it gives racers an opportunity to research so many different limited or unlimited hulls of the PAST or PRESENT and then add thier own 2 cents to it! When i saw Phils boats sport 40s show up in this area i liked every thing about that boat but that turbine cowl..and thats what everyone ran! Then i found out about the stealth cowl...that completly changed the look of that boat for me....now i could run a sport boat that didnt look like an unlimited without a wing! It was different! Though i do some scratch building, im sure i couldnt come close to your abilities in design and buidling..if seen some pictures of your boats....they are beautiful! Thats why i would challange someone of your abilities to perhaps design a COMPETITIVE conventional hydro like the old Atlas van lines..because it is a sport class and it DOESNT have to be scale! Wouldnt it be cool to see a sport 20 or 40 with a driver in the back of the boat and the engine in the front, WINNING a race against fully cowled "modern" looking sport hydros? Im working on one but ive no idea if it will be worth a flip! Wont stop me from trying though as thats half the fun of this great hobby for me!!
 
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