Southern Indiana Prop Nuts Race

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Oh, and Tim, that fin is fine according to what I read. It will also help that boat in the turns. Ken
 
Chris

Since you are not following the RTR rules laid out for the D-14 point series for exhaust changes

(see www.impba14.org ), are you still going to be a D-14 points race for RTR?

I know of a lot of people who have followed the rules as written on the D-14 web site who will not be able to compete at your race.

DonB
 
Maybe a better way to ask this question, would be to recite the rule as written for Dist 14. I would make sure that if you are allowed to change pipes, that it must be muffled. My two cents, Ken
 
Don,

I will be happy to follow what D14 has set before us for this race. I had no idea that D14 had any rules in place. I started a thread regarding this topic and no one chimed in and noted that there were rules posted for D14 under the 2009 series registration for RTR.

It is my belief however that we should address the rules for next season. I personally am against the aftermarket pipe rule. I just don't want a racer that shows up to his first race to be outgunned because of a mod he was not aware was allowed. I am not sure who edits the impba14.org website but it would be nice to tack on a rules page on the main page for each class there instead of having to search for it under the series registration form.

So if you are running at our race then you will be allowed to have an after market pipe for 2009. We will readdress this for 2010.

Thanks,

Chris

The rules page is editted for this alteration
 
Chris

Don’t get me wrong, I do agree with you. It class should run with the original manufacture’s style of motor and pipe that came with the boat when it was purchased. I also think D-14 should rename the class from a Sport class to a Stock class, to be consistent with the way the B Sport Tunnel is run. In B Sport Tunnel you can do internal engine mods as long as the carb and exhaust bore are with in specs. The name should also mention that this class is for 3 point hydro’s only. I also agree that the members of this district who run RTR should discuss this further so next year, hopefully, problems like this won’t come up again.

As far as aftermarket pipes, I bought a new Q-18 pipe when they first the hit market. With the set-up we run on Linda’s boat the new Q pipe was noticeably slowed her boat down. There was nothing I could do the get the speed back with the Q pipe. I reinstalled the stock MV pipe and the speed returned. The only advantage I noticed was the Q pipe was quieter that the stock MV pipe. The stock MV pipe might make more noise but it still runs less than the max db levels set by IMPBA, even on the Evansville lake.

DonB
 
May I?

A number of weeks ago i took a crack at a set of rules for class called Production Sport Hydro.. (yea its not called RTR)

My goal is to post it on the AquaCraft website as a GUIDE. Or if some want it can be STONE! Its up to the club/s. The reason is really nothing more then to help guide and or "STANDARDISE" a set of rules (nation wide) that deal directly with mass produced sport hydroplanes.

I will post them here first (NO THEY WILL LIKEY NOT CHANGE) and when posted.. COULD be used to avoid confusion.

Having said this.. this if clubs want to allow more or other mods thats cool.. Not my focus however with this...

Here is what they "Might" look like.. Feed back is ALWAYS welcome.

Grim

With the ever increasing demand for racing ready to run sport hydroplanes we have put together a simple set of racing rules for your convenience.

Class Intent:

The intent of this class is to race similar Sport Hydroplane Radio Control boats produced for the RC industry. This class is open to all driver skill levels.

Boats allowed in this class must be intended for the RC market. They must be distributed and available to hobby shops as well as e-commerce nation wide.

Production Sport Hydroplane Racing Rules (Nitro Motors):

Basic Requirements:

The boats must be full body hydroplanes (know as “Sport Hydroplanes”)

The engine must not exceed 0.189 displacement

The boats can not resemble outrigger hydroplanes, tunnel hulls and or catamarans.

Boats allowed in this class must be intended for the mass RC market.

The boats must be distributed and available to hobby shops as well as e-commerce nation wide.

Boats must race as purchased from the manufacture; however the following changes are allowed:

You may use any glow plug

You may upgrade to any starting system including changing flywheel

You may use any propeller designed and sized for the drive system.

You may use any production available turn fin and turn fin bracket

You may sharpen and polish hardware

You may use any radio equipment

You may change any silicone part on the boat, i.e. fuel line or pipe coupler etc.

You may paint (and its encouraged) to your liking.

You may scuff the paint

Any fuel i.e.” nitro percentage” may be used.

What you can not do:

You can not modify the engine

Modifying the hull is not allowed including removing detail parts.

You can not modify the tuned exhaust system

You can not add an on board fuel mixture system

Hand made parts are not allowed

Parts can not be swapped from older production version to newer production versions or newer to older.

Performance enhancing repairs are prohibited

If it’s not mentioned here it’s not legal

The race course:

The race course will be setup as an oval. The boats will race in a clockwise pattern. A minimum of 7 buoys, 6 course buoys and one start line buoy will be set in the water with the front set of buoys approximately 50 feet from the driver’s shoreline. The buoys will be arranged with three buoys ,1,2 and 3 on the left side of the course and three buoys on the right 4, 5 and 6. The start buoy typically is placed in the center of the course. The length and width of the race course and the number of laps raced is up to the racing host.

To start the race a count down timer is set to 2 minuets and 30 seconds (2:30). Boats must be running and on the course before the end of 2 minuets (Mill time). You are not allowed to cut the course (cut inside the buoys) at any time before, during or after the race.

At the end of mill time the race begins. The boat closest to the start line without going over is in first place. If a boat jumps the start (is positioned to the left of the start line when mill times ends and the race begins) it is called over by the contest director (CD) and can not be credited for starting the race until after passing the start finish line.
 
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Grim,

You might want to add, you can change the fuel tank. It seems that the fuel is really close on the new boat. and some people had to replace the tank in the old boat. Besides, there is no performance gain with the tank change.
 
Grim i dont think the Part where we cant upgrade to newer part if we have the older boat. i dont see a prob with that. wont be fair guys with the new Duse will have a Edge With the motor and pipe we should be able to put the new stuff in the old hull. or the other way.
 
Ken,

thats a good point and one I had thought of.. but.. let me ponder that more...

I like to leave it cuz it just might force us to "Do Better" if you know what i mean.

But still.......

Grim
 
Tim,

Lots of ways to spin it.. But... in time its going to force us to make better boats for you.. hard to get a grasp of that when all this is new but, one can not stop the progression so its best to accept it.

As ugly as that sounds to some its just a fact.. I hope you udersand I feel strongly about that one.. (again..modifyed club class?)

Grim
 
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hope so if i woulda known this i would never have just spent the Extra motor for the newer motor mount, the super vee fly wheel and stuff.. i understand where your coming from. no boat clubs around me really so i get to run by my self tell i get to race.
 
Grim,

I see where your coming from. It should be easy to modify for districts or clubs with a baseline to follow, or even use for that matter. There are alot of changes when a new class comes out. I personally do not want to see this turn out like stock tunnel where the front runners are anything but stock. It makes it very difficult for the new boater to compete. I would like to say that Alex's Duece (my youngest son) is stock as can be except for the turn fin and prop and it ran very well. I did not radar it as I was much more focused on getting Alex used to driving. But 7 tanks of fuel, and other than us running it out of fuel due to not counting laps and having too much fun, we never had a problem. Heck, we didnt burn a plug! If they all come out of the box as good as this one, We could have real good thing going. Keep up the great work Auquacraft and Mike, your going the right direction. Ken
 
Ken,

To me this is the sticky part.. but i feel strongly its needs to be this way.

Class Intent:

The intent of this class is to race similar Sport Hydroplane Radio Control boats produced for the RC industry. This class is open to all driver skill levels.

Boats allowed in this class must be intended for the RC market. They must be distributed and available to hobby shops as well as e-commerce nation wide.

If a club wants to use the same rules for a Beginners class that would be great.. but.. my focus was not a beginners class....

Just cuz its a Production sport hydro does not make it a beginners class.. I wish I had a better idea for new boaters..

Maybe we do just that.. have a Beginners Production Sport Hydroplane class.. as well? I Know,, I know.. still sticky.. heck.. maybe they race dads Production Sport Hydro... Only need one Production boat! A cost bonus! Cus the boat is legal in both classes!

ROCK ON!

Grim
 
Okay,

I agree. I feel the new boat you have come out with is a lot of fun to drive. Well, I would know more if I could have gotten it away from Alex. haha!! I feel this class will help the sport. I didnt mean it was just a beginners class. Its a very fast way for a boater to be able to race in a new class right after he opens the box! Which I personally think is awesome. Ken
 
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